Demaree info please

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Nuc

New Bee
Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
71
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0
Location
Peak District
Hive Type
14x12
Number of Hives
3
Hi all, been reading mr Cushmans website regarding Demaree. What is the purpose of a second QE under the top BB? I presume it's intended for hatching Queens up there and not needed if no Q cells. Have I missed something?
 
I used the double queen excluder last year but not this as it seems a bit ott to me. If you are going to raise a queen in the top box it is better to use a division board such as a horsley or snelgrove you could also cut a door in a standard crown board if that is easier.

The top queen excluder will stop drones moving down into the supers but I would not rely on one to stop a virgin queen if thats what its intended for.
 
The essence of Demaree is the remoteness of the top super.

Just as (at least) two supers seem to be required, so I have also been taught that the upper QX is about increasing 'separation' (reducing but not stopping traffic) rather than preventing a queen (who shouldn't be there) and drones coming out of the top box.

If you want to use a Sheperd Swarm Board (or a Snelgrove, or one of the others), then fine - but its no longer a Demaree that you are doing!
 
Hi all, been reading mr Cushmans website regarding Demaree. What is the purpose of a second QE under the top BB? I presume it's intended for hatching Queens up there and not needed if no Q cells. Have I missed something?

As I understand it, the upper Q/E is put there as a 'belt and braces' insurance in case a queen cell was overlooked when the brood combs were moved into the top BB.
But as Tom comments, I wouldn't want to rely on it to stop a determined virgin ...

If you're going to hatch queens, then it's advisable to fit a proper mesh floor under the upper BB, together with it's own entrance, until such time as the boxes are separated - which presumably is just after the virgin is successfully mated.

LJ
 
I agree with Tom, in the Demaree I did 10 days ago I had 4 supers between the 2 brood boxes and did not get a single QC produced in the top BB, so if you want to raise a new queen or 2 by this method then I think you need to do more than just have the supers between the 2 BBs for the first 24 hours.
 
I tried the Demaree method for the first time on three hives but with only one super and Q/E between the BB's ( never thought about 4 !!). Maybe this is why it did n't work for me.

I went through a period ( about 2 weeks ) of checking every 4 days for queen cells in both boxes. Top box was fine after the first two checks but they continued to make queen cells in the bottom boxes which I removed religously. After another week one colony swarmed and I lost the bees; after a further week another colony swarmed but this time I managed to collect the swarm and rehive it, only for it to swarm again the next day. I had assumed that I had missed a QC but on checking the bottom box there were non sealed - only starter cells some of which were charged with eggs and royal jelly.

The third colonly became agressive and I ended up splitting the colony pending requeening. So I had 100% failure with this method!

If it really does require so many supers to be effective I'll need to buy some more! The only benefit of this method ( for me ) has been that the top boxes have become 14x12 "supers" and are full of honey now - just waiting for it to be fully capped !

The downside of a 14x12 super full of honey is that it's so heavy I can hardly lift it ! But I am not complaining, of course.

I'd be interested in any comments from any of the more experienced beeks here re my first ( and possibly last) forray into Demareeing.
 
Thanks for all replies so far. I've not used Demaree before and on this occasion just wanted to keep the colony together without making Q cells. D Cushman seemed to use the technique with success for swarm prevention and control. I have taken a six frame nuc from this colony last week when swarm cells appeared. If more Q cells this week I thought I would try Demaree as now have another brood box. Bit of a mix of techniques I know but governed by kit at the time. Any other good suggestions welcome. Thanks..
 
Like most things Nuc there are many variations on a similar theme and then individual adaptions that work for that beekeeper but leaves others bemused and shaking their heads.

This is a good simple read on the Demaree system used as swarm prevention and not control (important bit). It does require a bit of dismantling of the hive and reassembly with movement of frames between boxes and on 14x12 hives perhaps a tall heavy hive to deal with but worth a read.

http://countryrubes.com/images/Swarm_Prevention_By_Demaree_Method.pdf
 
I tried the Demaree method for the first time on three hives but with only one super and Q/E between the BB's ( never thought about 4 !!). Maybe this is why it did n't work for me.

I went through a period ( about 2 weeks ) of checking every 4 days for queen cells in both boxes. Top box was fine after the first two checks but they continued to make queen cells in the bottom boxes which I removed religously. After another week one colony swarmed and I lost the bees; after a further week another colony swarmed but this time I managed to collect the swarm and rehive it, only for it to swarm again the next day. I had assumed that I had missed a QC but on checking the bottom box there were non sealed - only starter cells some of which were charged with eggs and royal jelly.

The third colonly became agressive and I ended up splitting the colony pending requeening. So I had 100% failure with this method!

If it really does require so many supers to be effective I'll need to buy some more! The only benefit of this method ( for me ) has been that the top boxes have become 14x12 "supers" and are full of honey now - just waiting for it to be fully capped !

The downside of a 14x12 super full of honey is that it's so heavy I can hardly lift it ! But I am not complaining, of course.

I'd be interested in any comments from any of the more experienced beeks here re my first ( and possibly last) forray into Demareeing.


It has been mentioned but Demaree was developed as a swarm prevention method put into use before the bees start swarm proceedings if it is used as a swarm control then it has to be a sort of half Demaree and Horsley, Snelgrove or something else that works for the beekeeper often achieved with experience.

Yes it requires at least two supers to do this.

Did you set up the hive correctly queen on frame with empty frames drawn or undrawn frames in lower box and all the brood above super (in your case) and queen excluder in upper box?

If your bees continue to build queen cells and you keep removing them then after a while they just say bugger you and will leave anyway as what has happened.

Yes a full 14x12 full of honey will be heavy but I don’t know of an extractor that takes 14x12 frames and if that honey is OSR!! you will at least be able to cut it out of the frames around the wires. They will however be good to give them back to the bees for winter feed and spring build up.

Personally I think 14x12 hives are a bit to big to be thinking Demaree unless the queen is that prolific and space is tight. We must be talking hives up to 6’ tall if sitting on a stand thats ok for the likes of Finman but not enjoyable for me.
 
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It never ceases to fascinate me how each of us is different in our choices ...

I had a look at that link, and my eyes began to glaze over after a few paragraphs. But - I've found even more complex descriptions of beekeeping techniques on some sites - the many uses of the Snelgrove Board is a very good example. I'm sure the Snelgrove Board is a fine piece of kit - but appears to be more complex to operate than a VCR control, which I still haven't mastered yet (born in the wrong age, obviously).

I've deviated.

Now this is my idea of a good description of the Demaree technique:
http://www.twickenham-bees.org.uk/tedstip-demaree.html

But no doubt others will find it not to their liking - such is the human condition.

Exits, stage left, muttering wistfully ...

LJ
 
It has been mentioned but Demaree was developed as a swarm prevention method put into use before the bees start swarm proceedings if it is used as a swarm control then it has to be a sort of half Demaree and Horsley, Snelgrove or something else that works for the beekeeper often achieved with experience.

Yes it requires at least two supers to do this.

Did you set up the hive correctly queen on frame with empty frames drawn or undrawn frames in lower box and all the brood above super (in your case) and queen excluder in upper box?

If your bees continue to build queen cells and you keep removing them then after a while they just say bugger you and will leave anyway as what has happened.

Yes a full 14x12 full of honey will be heavy but I don’t know of an extractor that takes 14x12 frames and if that honey is OSR!! you will at least be able to cut it out of the frames around the wires. They will however be good to give them back to the bees for winter feed and spring build up.

Personally I think 14x12 hives are a bit to big to be thinking Demaree unless the queen is that prolific and space is tight. We must be talking hives up to 6’ tall if sitting on a stand thats ok for the likes of Finman but not enjoyable for me.

Tom - Thanks for your comments.

One of the hives started out as a swarm collected last September and I had to put it into a 14x12 box as I did not have a nuc. I thought they might not get through the winter as it was a smallish colony but they did and the queen is indeed prolific - by late March there was brood on all 11 frames - even on both sides of the outer frames where you usually just see stores. By late April they were bubbling over and needed more space which I provided by a super on top but whilst they occupied it they did little else in the super.

On another hive I used undrawn foundation and as soon as the bees had drawn up a few frames they continued to make queen cells.

I set up the ( Demarreed ) hive with the queen, one frame of BIAS and10 frames empty drawn comb in the bottom box; QE ontop of this , then a super with undrawn foundation , then another BB with the rest of the frames on top. I did not place another Q/E above the super as perhaps I should have.

Looks like I should have had another super on too. The bees just carried on regardless making queen cells in both boxes for a while and then just in the lower box. On one occasion - after about 2 weeks - I found a charged queen cell in the super. So either the queen squeezed though the rigid wire excluder ( but there were no other eggs in the super) or the bees carried an egg over the Q/E.

I was also concerned about extracting from 12x14 frames but my friend assures me that his will accomodate them.

You are right about the height of the tower - though not quite 6 ft - and at one time I had them strapped down like I do during the winter.

I'll take a look at the links given above and maybe do things differently next time.
 
Sounds like quite a hive and queen spadaman, perhaps more than two supers for that hive given its strength. Still all valuable experience gained.
 
I had the same problem with the top brood box filling up with stores so rotated the boxes so the bees would hopefully shift everything upstairs!

No one mentions about whether the supers should be empty or in the process of being filled? I am sure someone can clarify!
 

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