If I can sneak away from painting, I'll get a photo of the three frame mating nucs I've made out of left over ship lap and some old top and bottom rails.
Now theres a beek with a planI used 2 x 3 frame nucs, Apidea and Keilers for mating last year. An advantage of the mini-mating nucs is clearly the reduced numbers of bees needed but they do require a lot more attention to detail in preparing and siting them. Last year I had very poor mating results until I moved the mini-nucs to a dedicated apiary which provided much better orientation cues (large trees, long walls etc).
With the 2 x 3 frame nucs I set them up with a shared super separated from the brood box by the feeder. Then if one if the queens does not get mated it is a simple matter of removing the divider board.
This year I plan to use the mini-nucs for an early round of mating and then switch over to the 2 x3 nucs later when I have sufficient stock bees.
You can add robing bees to your list.I use both kielers and apideas , also apidea sized cheap poly boxes.
Don't have any issues with keeping any box going but prefer apideas as fewer bees needed to stock them. I only produce about 20-30 odd queens so very hobby orientated.
Never have enough bees in May for all I want to do, so apideas are better. Three frame nucs require far too many bees/resources.
Like Maddydog, getting quuens mated is an issue.. the weather here is very variable in June/July.
I expect overall to end with losing half my queens - unmated, missing (rare), and wasps (August).
Overwinter three to four queens in small mating nucs. Usually doubled up and heavily insulated.
Have you tried much to raise queens a little later...say autumn? Brilliant to have ready in spring.I use both kielers and apideas , also apidea sized cheap poly boxes.
Don't have any issues with keeping any box going but prefer apideas as fewer bees needed to stock them. I only produce about 20-30 odd queens so very hobby orientated.
Never have enough bees in May for all I want to do, so apideas are better. Three frame nucs require far too many bees/resources.
Like Maddydog, getting quuens mated is an issue.. the weather here is very variable in June/July.
I expect overall to end with losing half my queens - unmated, missing (rare), and wasps (August).
Overwinter three to four queens in small mating nucs. Usually doubled up and heavily insulated.
Tried autumn.Have you tried much to raise queens a little later...say autumn? Brilliant to have ready in spring.
It's rotten here trying to get queens mated in spring....I did have some mate in 14 degrees this year, which was lucky...
I'm soon to have a go at raising some autumn queens, which worked well last year. Such a settled time with the weather and lots of drones still around.
I use both kielers and apideas , also apidea sized cheap poly boxes.
Don't have any issues with keeping any box going but prefer apideas as fewer bees needed to stock them. I only produce about 20-30 odd queens so very hobby orientated.
Never have enough bees in May for all I want to do, so apideas are better. Three frame nucs require far too many bees/resources.
Like Maddydog, getting queens mated is an issue.. the weather here is very variable in June/July.
I expect overall to end with losing half my queens - unmated, missing (rare), and wasps (August).
Overwinter three to four queens in small mating nucs. Usually doubled up and heavily insulated.
very few probably, although they will take bees and flies it's usually the smaller insects they hunthow many losses are likely due to dragonflies and damselflies?
I’ve had good success in the autumn, I’d suggest weather is more consistent than early season as well.Have you tried much to raise queens a little later...say autumn? Brilliant to have ready in spring.
It's rotten here trying to get queens mated in spring....I did have some mate in 14 degrees this year, which was lucky...
I'm soon to have a go at raising some autumn queens, which worked well last year. Such a settled time with the weather and lots of drones still around.
Tried autumn.
BUT:
WASPS
and wasps and wasps.
Overwhelm any weak colony.
Yes, there seem to always be a big colony of wasps near by in august. But since I learned to use several of these traps, plastic divided 1,5 liters soda bottles with e.g. concentrated blue berry juice, the problem got solved. Also, you can choose between trapping one queen in spring or 1000 workers in august
I go industrial, early, with traps. A crate of beer bottle traps is good, but plenty of jam jar and clear bottle traps good too. The 5 litre water bottles go on and on. A clear bottle with its top near the entrance will protect a small hive. A bit of gauze over the entrance too if necessary. I find wasps are a manageable problem, even when nesting nearby. War by attrition is the mindset.We have lots of woods and nearby houses with trees.
Trapping wasp queens is like micturating into the wind.
When I reinsulated our house roof, I found the remains of c 30 wasp nests. When I repainted the gutters/fascia boards about five years ago, I wore a veil at certain parts to avoid wasp stings..
( Old stone built house with high walls so nest eradication is not something to do on a whim!)
I go industrial, early, with traps. A crate of beer bottle traps is good, but plenty of jam jar and clear bottle traps good too. The 5 litre water bottles go on and on. A clear bottle with its top near the entrance will protect a small hive. A bit of gauze over the entrance too if necessary. I find wasps are a manageable problem, even when nesting nearby. War by attrition is the mindset.
We have lots of woods and nearby houses with trees.
Trapping wasp queens is like micturating into the wind.
Once opened a hive up to change a floor and found the remains of a big dragonfly. Assume if flew in looking for an easy meal and never made it out? Not propolised though like the occasional mouse I seeNear open fresh water that has wildlife, how many losses are likely due to dragonflies and damselflies? How many losses due to birds (e.g. swallows and swifts and similar) that catch insects while flying?
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