Apivar lead time ...

[pargyle]

You now what I meant? Apistan vs apivar

But that's NOT what you said ...

Let's make it perfectly clear for all the beginners you are advising ... APISTAN is not recommended as a treatment any more as Varroa has evolved to become resistant to its effective use. Its actibe ingredient is Pyrethroids and there were considerable residues of this found in wax ....

Not a good product any more although when it was first introduced it was very effective untl it was heavily over-used.

PS: Ahhh ... just caught up on the rest of the thread and Dani is aleady on the case.

 

[Boston Bees]

PS: Ahhh ... just caught up on the rest of the thread and Dani is aleady on the case.

Why do you always feel the need to pretend you haven't read the whole thread before you wrote your post? And then pretend to have just noticed that someone else has said the same thing. It's quite a sweet habit, but unnecessary

 

[Bazzer]

If there are no detectable mites then why is everyone advocating applying another treatment? That is the way to select for multiple resistant mites.

 

[pargyle]

Why do you always feel the need to pretend you haven't read the whole thread before you wrote your post? And then pretend to have just noticed that someone else has said the same thing. It's quite a sweet habit, but unnecessary

Didn't think I did that but you are very welcome to your opinion ... But always ? Don't think so ... sometimes posts are close together in timing and I'm not as fast on the keyboard as some on here and my posts in response are sometimes more detailed and it happens that you get duplicated replies - not really sure what you are getting at ...

 

[user 20297]

Hi everyone. Hope you're having a good weekend...
I'm using Apivar strips for the first time (can't afford to block the laying Queen) as I try and build up a weak family with a new queen they made for themselves. All is good in terms of brood quality and quantity as well as stores.
The strips have been in for 8 days now and I inspected the previously cleaned and oiled tin bottom. Lots of wax and pollen and a few ants but zero mites. I inspected it for a long time to be sure.
Can anyone tell me how much time the strips take to start working? I know they need to be in there 45-60 days but I was expecting something by now. I must say I've not seen a single mite all year on this colony.
Thanks

I haven't used the strips yet but the guidance for use seems very specific that they should be properly spaced and in contact with the brood nest and that they should be pushed down between the frames and not dangling from the top by the wedge.

If I saw no mite drop after eight days I would presume the strips were faulty or that I had no or minimal mites.

I think that logically, you should proceed with the full treatment period anyway. It would be useful and of interest if you could let us know the eventual outcome.

 

[Curly green finger's]

If there are no detectable mites then why is everyone advocating applying another treatment? That is the way to select for multiple resistant mites.

The op is using a treatment and hasn't said what sort of tests ie sugar shake to justify using a varroa treatment.
I was just trying to highlight that there are better more organic methods which can be used with out opening a hive in mid winter and pooring a dribble treatment over a colony.
I have minimal varroa in lots of my colonys but some bigger colonys that are borderline.
I also had to treat some in the spring so on this basis I will still treat OA via sublimation or apivar on rotation.
OA has no known resistance and as far as I can see with my own eyes no damage caused unlike what I see and hear with maqs.
I think the idea of rotation of treatments is key and if you are using mainly apivar all the time and not used for the recommended time scale it would stand to reason that you are going to get resistance.

 

[Curly green finger's]

I haven't used the strips yet but the guidance for use seems very specific that they should be properly spaced and in contact with the brood nest and that they should be pushed down between the frames and not dangling from the top by the wedge.

If I saw no mite drop after eight days I would presume the strips were faulty or that I had no or minimal mites.

I think that logically, you should proceed with the full treatment period anyway. It would be useful and of interest if you could let us know the eventual outcome.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

it takes me the best part of 5 hrs to just inspect all hives at the hight of the season.

Does that include travelling between the apiaries? What's your average inspection time per colony?

 

[pargyle]

Does that include travelling between the apiaries? What's your average inspection time per colony?

5 hours divided by 60 hives ...averages 5 minutes per colony without any travelling or buggeration ... I wish I could do my 8 at home that quickly ! Difference between a hobbyist and a beefarmer.

 

[Curly green finger's]

Does that include travelling between the apiaries? What's your average inspection time per colony?

That's travelling around also having a break, inspection times vary aldepending what I'm doing, it can take minutes or longer I've not really timed myself. Sometimes I don't need to inspect all colonys as there's no need!
When I fill in my diary's I put how long I've been at each apiary and details of what I've done for each colony I've inspected.
There's no real difference between hobbests and Beefarmers we all do things in the same sort of way. If there's no need to inspect then don't disturb them. And I like to play with my bees at the best of times.
I do also like to drive around just checking everythings alright like I would do if I was checking other types of livestock, watching the activity at the entrance and hefting seeing how defensive a colony might be because I'm waiting for a queen to mate and produce brood, after three weeks I start to twitch if nothing has happened even more so with bigger colonys that generally have queen's laying sooner.


To talk of defensive behaviour, I've found that queenless colonys with no brood to be the worst, its interesting to watch over time how a colony can really settle down once queen right and brood is present.
I hope this answers your question.
@jenkinsbrynmair do you time each inspection considering you wouldn't inspect every colony and I'm including all colonys at whatever stage they may be at?

 

[Swarm]

Interesting observation with queenless, broodless colonies. This year I've seen both ends of the spectrum, a colony where you could feel their frustration with bees in the air protesting with any movement of the frames. Two attempts with a frame of eggs and serenity was restored.
The other example were such a sweet colony that never left the combs and their nature hasn't changed. I am due to check for a laying queen next week, fingers crossed but she will need to be something special to match her predecessor.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

That's travelling around also having a break, inspection times vary aldepending what I'm doing, it can take minutes or longer I've not really timed myself. Sometimes I don't need to inspect all colonys as there's no need!
I do also like to drive around just checking everythings alright like I would do if I was checking other types of livestock

So the short answer is, the time you quote for inspecting includes travelling and 'breaks'.
I don't tend to consider leaning on a gate chewing a stalk of grass for a few minutes managing my livestock - be it bees or any other creature.

 

[Curly green finger's]

That's a bit old fashioned

So the short answer is, the time you quote for inspecting includes travelling and 'breaks'.
I don't tend to consider leaning on a gate chewing a stalk of grass for a few minutes managing my livestock - be it bees or any other creature.

Old fashioned doing the grass chewing but you can keep that in your mind if you like.

 

[Markthebuilder]

So the short answer is, the time you quote for inspecting includes travelling and 'breaks'.
I don't tend to consider leaning on a gate chewing a stalk of grass for a few minutes managing my livestock - be it bees or any other creature.

As a builder I have to say that all time travelling and tea breaks are an essential part of the build. Further most of my planning and behind the Seen organisation is defiantly done (figuratively at least ) whilst leaning on a gate chewing grass.
the only time I think I am More active mentally are those moments when my partner says “what are you thinking about?” And I reply “nothing”

 

[Curly green finger's]

As a builder I have to say that all time travelling and tea breaks are an essential part of the build. Further most of my planning and behind the Seen organisation is defiantly done (figuratively at least ) whilst leaning on a gate chewing grass.
the only time I think I am More active mentally are those moments when my partner says “what are you thinking about?” And I reply “nothing”

I know the feeling, but 9 times out of 10 she knows what I'm thinking about either landscaping or bees there is nothing else.

 

[Martimart]

I know the feeling, but 9 times out of 10 she knows what I'm thinking about either landscaping or bees there is nothing else.

There's always steam engines surely?

 

[ericbeaumont]

something that doesn’t work

Apistan and other chemical treatments are effective again after a break of 3 or so years; in that time varroa abandons developed resistance and is vulnerable once more.

Resistance takes energy and reduces varroa reproductive efficiency.

This book has the full story.

 

[Erichalfbee]

Apistan and other chemical treatments are effective again after a break of 3 or so years; in that time varroa abandons developed resistance and is vulnerable once more.

Resistance takes energy and reduces varroa reproductive efficiency.

This book has the full story.

Do you use it Eric?

 

[elainemary]

Apistan and other chemical treatments are effective again after a break of 3 or so years; in that time varroa abandons developed resistance and is vulnerable once more.

Resistance takes energy and reduces varroa reproductive efficiency.

This book has the full story.

I used it on 2 colonies for the first time last year. It was an emergency and a friend gave me some strips. Huge knock down rate and very effective. Both colonies had v low drops for rest of season.

Big learning overall, as those 2 colonies were ones I decided not to treat the previous autumn, due to relative low Varroa drops. Came back to bite me (& them) the following spring. Believe now you need to do something to reduce varroa (& sublimate in winter) rather than nothing, even if drops are low.

 

[Erichalfbee]

Yes...getting complacent gets you nowhere. I took my eye off the ball in a very big rolling Demaree to their cost. Vaping with supers on now and they have recovered but it could so easily have gone the other way if I had waited till the rest of the hives were done.
I have two colonies on the potting shed roof and Stan won't take the sublimox up there...... still don't like the idea of it though. Maybe I should prod him a little harder...or get up the ladder myself