Advice re varroa treatment

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So ... think a bit outside the box - how can you be certain that it was someone else's untreated bees that caused your bees varroa levels to rise - perhaps your bees were the ones susceptible to mite infestation ?

Out of my 5 out-apiaries it's the only one I share with another beekeeper. As the bees come from my own locally reared stock it looked very much like the untreated bees caused the varroa levels to rise. All the other 4 sites were OK at that stage in the season,
 
Out of my 5 out-apiaries it's the only one I share with another beekeeper. As the bees come from my own locally reared stock it looked very much like the untreated bees caused the varroa levels to rise. All the other 4 sites were OK at that stage in the season,

Especially if your bees have Italian in them, the possibility exists that they robbed his...
 
Philip I guess at least during a transition it costs a bit in honey as well. Do you have a measure of that? Feel free to PM me.

I get about the same amount of honey as other beekeepers in my locality - as you know my hives are in the garden, more or less in the middle of town. Withhin about a mile radius of my apiary there are at least 60 other hives - possibly more - and I know the majority of the beekeepers. I don't get the big flows from rape or balsam it's more a steady flow through the season and my crop is very heavily dependent upon the weather. What I do get is what the honey judge at our association show described as 'A lovely floral honey' - which is more important to me than quantity.

So ... this year it looks like about 30lbs a hive and it was much the same last year. The year before was a year when I was expanding and the honey crop suffered as a result. The average around me is somewhere in the same league - I do better than most but lose out to those nearer the farmland who get more from rape and field beans. I'm not convinced that a non-treatment regime has any substantial effect on the crop - strong healthy colonies produce - new or weaker ones don't.
 
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Withhin about a mile radius of my apiary there are at least 60 other hives -

So ... this year it looks like about 30lbs a hive and it was much the same last year. .

I do not know, do we have such hive densities anywhere.

Inside biggest densities all kind of bee diseases are possible. Healty hives the whole yard in that situation? I do not believe..

When I bring my hives to the cottage yard for winter, then we have with my neighbour 50 hives inside a 1 km distance. But that is winter storing situation.

During yield season I keep maximum 3-4 hives inside 1 mile radius, and no other beekeepers.
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When flow is good, a hive brings 30 lbs in 3 days. But it is like bees would pick nectar from full bowl. In this situation the hive must have 6 langstroth boxes. Most of the yield season bees bring just that, what brood eates daily.

But after that great jubileum the biggest hive can be dead after 2 months killed
Varroa. Speak about healty hives? I have not that proverb.

Healthy hives.... It is just a slogan.
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Pargyle has challenging environment. 60 hives quite near. Then wild colonies here and there. Empty hives. Dead hives inside buildings and in bird houses.

Robbed colonies and nucs. Queenless colonies are easy to rob. The most easy are dead colonies after winter. Old frames stores.

Sun melter delivers easily diseases. It temperature does not kill diseases.

90% of beekeepers are 2-give owners. How good they are to notice diseases?
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When I started beekeeping with local mongrels, hives were full of different kind if diseases. I remember how porous were brood areas. But mongrels " did well" with their problems. And several years later I learned about diseases. IT took 15 years before I identified chalkbrood.

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Heat gun spoils the aroma of honey . It gives a taste of melted wax.

Once I uncapped with an electrict knife, which's thermostat was broken. I must throw away 100 kg extracted honey because it tasted burned wax.
 
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When I started beekeeping with local mongrels, hives were full of different kind if diseases. I remember how porous were brood areas. But mongrels " did well" with their problems. And several years later I learned about diseases. IT took 15 years before I identified chalkbrood.

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I started as a one hive owner at the age of 18, I recognised chalkbrood just after receiving them that was 35 years ago. Our national bee unit gives regular bee disease courses which educates our 2 hive owners very early on in their journey into beekeeping. I am confident they can recognise a difference in the health of their hives. Our education support system must be totally different to yours.
 
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I started as a one hive owner at the age of 18, I recognised chalkbrood just after receiving them that was 35 years ago. Our national bee unit gives regular bee disease courses which educates our 2 hive owners very early on in their journey into beekeeping. I am confident they can recognise a difference in the health of their hives. Our education support system must be totally different to yours.

I started 54 years ago. Everything was different then.

Your education system is old fashion in UK if we talk about disease control. When I have read your diseases booklets, they are not from smartest head of advices. By the way, I have taught to you, what to do with chalkbrood. Not very well known that queen changing.

Perhaps our system is clever either. Average age of beekeepers is 58 y. Not very smart age group.

But our main teachers was really clever guy. Academic backround and owns 1500 hives. 50 y old. But he retired last year from advisors duty. . He travelled much in foreign countrues and learned different systems.

And our beekeepers have their son to father tricks, and no one can ridd them off.

One thing is that we do not burn each others's hives or property. Beekeeping is not so important as rose gardening, which is the most important in the world.

Dave Cushman pages were one of the smartest in the world. It was where you can trust. Nowadays I do not read it..

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I looked advices from Dave Cushman sites, what to do with chalkbrood.
Roger Patterson describes his own experiences and beliefs widely about disease but does not take support from scientific knowledge what universities produce. He do not know that there are chalkbrood immune bee strains. And he does not know, that disease will be healed by itself when summer becomes warmer. Then in cold weather chalk hits again. Or next spring.

His knowledge is not very clear about disease. I think that he is not obliged to fight hardly against that disease.
 
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All of my yellow stripey bees show signs of chalkbrood.....the Native Cornish black bees do not appear to have it.

Change your bees

Fungal infection a bit like athletes foot?

Yeghes da
 
I started as a one hive owner at the age of 18, I recognised chalkbrood just after receiving them that was 35 years ago. Our national bee unit gives regular bee disease courses which educates our 2 hive owners very early on in their journey into beekeeping. I am confident they can recognise a difference in the health of their hives. Our education support system must be totally different to yours.

Totally ... Day courses run by Bee Inspctors that cover everything from hive and apiary hygiene right through to examining actual examples of foul brood (under controlled classroom conditions) and everything in between. This sort of education is so much better than books and internet videos. Every beekeeper should take the opportunity to attend one of the Bee Disease Days if the opportunity arises.

Finnie is right about one thing - the density of hives in semi-urban beekeeping in the UK is high and with the recent trends, over the last 20 or so years, for gardens that are stocked with plants and shrubs that are not of immense benefit to our bees it does not provide the best environment for large crops of honey. I feel fortunate to get an average of 30lbs a hive as a surplus and still be able to leave the bees enough to overwinter, mainly, on their own produce.

The health of a colony is easily seen by someone who has their hives close by and daily bee watching tells you that all is well. IMO a lot of bee problems are caused by beekeepers 'fiddling' - provide the right conditions in the hive, keep an eye out for swarming and with luck the bees will know what is best for them and get on with it, strong colonies living the way they want to live.

The element of bad luck is the potential for the diseases that really do affect colonies - DWV, the foul broods, CBPV - I don't think there is much that any beekeeper can do to keep these at bay except hope for the best and pray it's not your bees that get infected. I worry less about Nosema as I've never had a problem with it - again, I think the right hive conditions help - but knowing what to look for, in terms of ANY of the bee diseases, is an essential part of the learning curve.

It doesn't take 54 years to learn about beekeeping and be able to successfully keep bees - you won't know everything in 5 years but if you are prepared to learn, take information from every source you can lay your hands, ears and eyes on and evaluate the information you garner and spend time on your bees and beekeeping then 5 years will get you enough knowledge to know how much more you need to know and when to look for more advice.

This thread is now so far off topic but it's been a good one in some respects - Varroa is a burden to our bees and the pros and cons of treatment or non-treatment will be discussed endlessly for the foreseeable future I suspect. The mite is unlikely to ever be eradicated from our beekeeping so we either have to find ways that challenge the mites existence or hope that our bees will learn to co-exist.
 
Bet the OP is really glad he asked that question about OA sublimation.
:rolleyes:
G&d is that what it was about? I thought it was about the first water of the morning (although, that bit seems to have gone missing or maybe I am confused with the prostate forum I am on).
 
All of my yellow stripey bees show signs of chalkbrood.....the Native Cornish black bees do not appear to have it.

Change your bees

Fungal infection a bit like athletes foot?

Yeghes da

Are you suggesting sprinkling Daktarin powder into the hive then?
 
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