Advice please. Chalk brood.

[Finman]

..

the site of the hive is important like Lions says.

The sites half day in shadow were first hives to get severe chalkbrood.
Same is the windy places where wind can blow inside via entrance.

Xxxxxxxxx

BUT you may dumb my every sentence. I have not problems but you hve. I have went through a hard school in this

To those coincidence guys.....finger up
I studied biology, biochemistry and genetics 5 years in Helsinki University.
All books were English language.

I have resolved my difficult chalkbrood. Do it there too!.
And stop beeing so national.

.

 

[Finman]

.
The most usual problem in chalkbrood cases were that the hive has a bad contamination in May.
It lost brood much and build up was slow. Then arrived warm summer days and nights and the hive healed. The queen layed the hive full but those bees were too late to forage a normal yield.

Those hives which had the disease whole summer, they were not able to get surplus at all.

Those hives which showed disease allready during cleansing flights the disease, they were zero producers.


Xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Now I have spare hives all the time. If I note chalkbrood in my hives, I kill the queen at once. It has not even change to make drones in my yard. I put the queen on dirty frames, and its duty is to make healthy larvae in contaminated hive. If it does not succes, I shange it again.

.to EFB I do the same.

.angry bees' mothers have the same destiny.
.spring is best time to do it.

 

[Into the lions den]

.
.to EFB I do the same.

If you did THAT in the UK you would be in trouble with the bee inspectorate and might even end up in court.

Only three permitted courses of action. Change the queen is not one of them.

 

[BeeJayBee]

Years ago an old bee farmer said to me to sprinkle salt on the top bars to get rid of Chalk brood and it works but don't ask me how!

I heard the same tip from an old beekeeper last year - salt sprinkled on the top bars of the broodbox frames to help clear up chalkbrood. He'd learned this in Germany and thought it worked by inducing the bees to do more diligent housekeeping.

Ian Craig mentions using salt in this article. http://www.moraybeekeepers.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/The-Auricle_apr2010.pdf

 

[mbc]

Change the queen is not one of them.

Nothing wrong with changing the queen after a shook swarm or otc treatment is carried out.

 

[Finman]

Ian Craig mentions using salt in this article. http://www.moraybeekeepers.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/The-Auricle_apr2010.pdf

if you look university or agricultural ministry level advices, what to do with chalkbrood, modern knowledge says clearly that there is no chemical treatment againt that disease.
Old farts have tricks but actually they do not work. Propolis+alkohol spray is one where some believes.

The reason is that what ever the cure, it works, when summer becomes warmer and disease disaper itself. Then it appear again if there is several rainy weeks.

I repeat: i do not have problems any more because I have rigid selection system and chalkbrood sensitive hives have no place in my yard. It works.

.

 

[Scutellator]

I have to agree with Finman this time.
There are bees just not capable of getting chalkbrood "disease" no matter how hard you try. The same with sac brood. I am not aware of a hive headed by Carniolan or local Bulgarian mongrels to have had sac brood EVER. And it is very rare among the Italians ( as fas as i know). I've seen it only onse, when the progeny of one of the grafting mothers turned out to possess those sub-lethal genes.

I used to give the same advise to the bulgarian beeks - "change the queen", but since the commercially propagated queens in Bulgaria are very susceptible to chalkbrood, the change of the queen with another susceptible one is just a waste.
I really have no idea how to "cure" the chalkbrood. Many bulgarians use "old recipes" regularly, but they still have too many instances of chalkbrood.

The the bees with higenic behaviour must remove all dead brood within 24 hours. As you can see from the diagram below the bees have way too looong time to sanitize the brood nest and to my opinion any queen that cannot cope with such a problem doesn't really deserve to be alive. (The diagram is taken from http://www.cuencarural.com/granja/apicultura/63346-ascosferosis/)

 

[Into the lions den]

Nothing wrong with changing the queen after a shook swarm or otc treatment is carried out.

Agreed, but it is not one of the offered treatment/control regimes in itself. The point was that Finman claims to treat EFB by changing the queen. No mention of the extra measures.

 

[Anduril]

I agree with Finman one hive I have on omf had a serious amount of chalkbrood 50%.Requeened with buckfast they killed her and drew out queen cells. New queen emerged luckily very little chalkbrood after putting the inspection board in place. Bees didn't like her and killed her and drew out more cells, disposed of the queen cells and introduced a frame of buckfast eggs and hopefully have a better temperament and no chalkbrood. The previous ones were followers. This hive has been changed to the same format as my others by keeping the inspection board in. This has given me a faster build up and no chalkbrood in my other hives of mongrels. Considering changing to solid floors as this works for me. But will consider other options as and when.

 

[Finman]

Agreed, but it is not one of the offered treatment/control regimes in itself. The point was that Finman claims to treat EFB by changing the queen. No mention of the extra measures.

if you look what MAAREC AND MANY OTHER ADVANCED BEEKEEPING COUNTRIES says about EFB, THEY ADVICE TO CHANGE THE GENEPOOL.

MAAREC is a consortium of 6 US universities.

finman claims. -- I claim nothing. I just tell what the best beekeeping countries say about EFB.

Where is British beekeeping researches. I have not found them from interner.

.

.

 

[Finman]

.
i looked what internet says today about EFB.

Australian report says 2011 as first tool to cure EFB: "Shange the queen on regular basis to disease resistant strain".

.

 

[Poly Hive]

That has been standard advice for as long as I can remember.

Time to move on perhaps?

PH

 

[Into the lions den]

That has been standard advice for as long as I can remember.

Time to move on perhaps?

PH

Maybe so but there is a world of a difference between cure and prevent or minimise.

'Cure' means that changing the queen in an EFB infected hive will get rid of the EFB. While that may or may not happen it is NOT UK policy to do this. A general change to more resistant types of course valid advice, but in the pre symptomatic situation.

 

[Hivemaker.]

While that may or may not happen it is NOT UK policy to do this.

And if it was of course, then the bee inspectors would just be going around re-Queening infected hives for the beekeepers.

 

[mbc]

And if it was of course, then the bee inspectors would just be going around re-Queening infected hives for the beekeepers.

A slippery slope which could end up with far more hives with the causative agent present but no symptoms and therefore far more easily spread.