14x12 Brood Boxes

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Joined
May 31, 2015
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Location
S. Wales
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
20 & 6 Nucs
I have today started to make some 14x12 brood boxes, I used a spindle moulder to 'finger joint' the boards to make up the size I need. I have glued them up using 'Polyurathane Glue'. Here are some pictures showing 'Cutter', 'Joint Profile' and 'Nice wide board'.

Cutter Block


Profile


Nice Wide Board
 
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Finally I have had time to complete a few of them, here's one taken between the terrible rain showers:

 
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Great job nantmoel, I hope they are screws I can see and not nails? Preferably stainless steel and the box will last for years. Well done

Sadly not! They are ring-shanked nails, the whole box is glued so I can't see the point in screwing something that glued.
 
Looking good, nice to see you're making good use of your spindle. You'll find more and more ways to utilise it once you find your feet.
 
Sadly not! They are ring-shanked nails, the whole box is glued so I can't see the point in screwing something that glued.

you should pin the tenon joint down top thru to bottom not thru the tongue into the side (repeat on the bottom tennons ) then you then nail internally the smaller inner boards to the outer rebated rails

don't follow thornes bad joinery practices, the construction instruction changed when they took over EH Taylers of welwyn
 
Unless you cramp them while the glue goes off, screws are better as they supply a closing force for the joint. Presuming here you are using a thin film adhesive - may be different if other glue types are used.

All fixing, whether nail or screw, should preferably be put in 'on the tosh'. That helps to prevent the joint being pulled apart. 'Straight in and straight out' gives a less robust fix.

Ring shanked are clearly better than plain wire nails.

RAB
 
you should pin the tenon joint down top thru to bottom not thru the tongue into the side (repeat on the bottom tennons ) then you then nail internally the smaller inner boards to the outer rebated rails

don't follow thornes bad joinery practices, the construction instruction changed when they took over EH Taylers of welwyn

That way you reduce the effective strength of the locking rail to half plus its more likely to split
 
It was the thread on supers that I mentioned screwing down through the tenons.A lot better than just popping a plasterboard nail from the front into the end grain
Even if the joints are glued (I cramp them as well BTW) a year or two in the rain will pop them
 

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