What did you do in the Apiary today?

[madasafish]

one hive decided to do a few toilet flights in the afternoon.. (Yes it was my sole polyhive)

That got me thinking - as it does for some of us - so I am now wondering about nosema and whether or not polyhive colonies are less affected than those in timber hives (at least the uninsulated ones) because the bees can take the opportunity for more cleansing flights from polyhives.

Clearly the infection is often there, but the progression of the disease may be far less damaging if the bees can manage to poop away from the hive.

Any one with any thoughts, data, or comment on the possibility?

Hypothesis is: Survival of overwintering colonies, which are infected with nosema (apis variety), is superior for colonies housed in polyhives compared to those in uninsulated timber hives.

RAB

Well until this winter, the only bees I wintered were in TBHs or warres. TBHs have much worse thermal characteristics than box hives due to the greater area of the roof.. (yes mine have insulated roofs but...)

So far (touch wood and cross toes), In five winters I have seen no incidence of nosema so bad as to show the classic external signs - poo on the external sides of the hives. Not to say there is none or I have not had an outbreak.. but no visible signs.

 

[Little John]

one hive decided to do a few toilet flights in the afternoon.. (Yes it was my sole polyhive)

That got me thinking - as it does for some of us - so I am now wondering about nosema and whether or not polyhive colonies are less affected than those in timber hives (at least the uninsulated ones) because the bees can take the opportunity for more cleansing flights from polyhives.

Clearly the infection is often there, but the progression of the disease may be far less damaging if the bees can manage to poop away from the hive.

Any one with any thoughts, data, or comment on the possibility?

Hypothesis is: Survival of overwintering colonies, which are infected with nosema (apis variety), is superior for colonies housed in polyhives compared to those in uninsulated timber hives.

RAB

Data, no. Thoughts, yes.

I would have thought that the opposite would be the case, as hives with uninsulated sides are able to convey information about very brief periods of warmth (from sunlight etc) - which we tend to have in winter - to the residents far more quickly than those hives with insulated walls.
I've come across several old hives where the brood boxes were painted black with creosote - presumably for this reason - whilst their supers and roofs were painted white.

But - I will admit to being biased, as I've never used a poly hive, or ever had a problem with nosema.

LJ

 

[Erichalfbee]

Well until this winter, the only bees I wintered were in TBHs or warres. TBHs have much worse thermal characteristics than box hives due to the greater area of the roof.. (yes mine have insulated roofs but...)

So far (touch wood and cross toes), In five winters I have seen no incidence of nosema so bad as to show the classic external signs - poo on the external sides of the hives. Not to say there is none or I have not had an outbreak.. but no visible signs.

But do you feed thymolated syrup?

 

[Little John]

Sun made an appearance at 1pm - with a lovely 8 degrees - all hives flying. Always good to see.
LJ

 

[madasafish]

But do you feed thymolated syrup?

Yes: in spring.

 

[Goran]

At my place as some obligatory I do preemptive treatment against nosema ( cerana) in late summer. Let say about end of July or in August. Considered the high temps are in favour of developing nosema, but in this time maybe less seen as brood is still going, bees can relief themselves every day, pollen is available. But when is brood stop, bees can't go out ( they go but don't return), no more pollen incoming.. Then is too late.
I read some researches about nosema and then I saw how deep can be hole.. For now I had no unexplained losses, but I am certain that nosema spores are in the hives but at bearable level or in size that don't affect on colony health. When I think that way I have less to worry.
Regards.

 

[BeeBeeKa]

the classic external signs - poo on the external sides of the hives. Not to say there is none or I have not had an outbreak..

All my hives are poly, and all have those classical sings you mentioned. The weakest of my colonies experienced a very heavy poo-disposal about 3 weeks ago, but it`s got much better thereafter and now situation is pretty equal everywhere: a few poos on out sides of every hive, a few on a mesh floors, and plenty (tenths) on landing boards in forms of liquid light brown spots. It`s all despite the fact I gave all of them plenty of thimolated syrup in autumn and treated by thymol from varroa for 2 months. Varroa boards have indicated no varroa presence during 3 days monitoring, thus nosema is the only matter of my concern now… I have a feeling though that all colonies will cope with it and everything is going to be ok…Anyway I have no idea what else could be done to get rid of that problem now. I could try to make a pollen substitute patty with remidy again, but they brought loads of pollen in autumn, thus there is definitely no pollen deficit so far.

 

[user 6228]

Well until this winter, the only bees I wintered were in TBHs or warres. TBHs have much worse thermal characteristics than box hives due to the greater area of the roof.. (yes mine have insulated roofs but...)

So far (touch wood and cross toes), In five winters I have seen no incidence of nosema so bad as to show the classic external signs - poo on the external sides of the hives. Not to say there is none or I have not had an outbreak.. but no visible signs.

the KTBH i tested had thermal characteristics much better than the b National I tested.
The top bars were much thicker a crown board. 25mm soft wood compared to 4mm hardwood ply. At 40 Litres there was not much difference in top surface area, and the 6+ fold increased roof insulation from the thick bars counter acts that.

 

[itma]

the KTBH i tested had thermal characteristics much better than the b National I tested.
The top bars were much thicker a crown board. 25mm soft wood compared to 4mm hardwood ply. At 40 Litres there was not much difference in top surface area, and the 6+ fold increased roof insulation from the thick bars counter acts that.

???
The confusion of units confuses me!

Without extremely snug-fitting (and well-insulated) "follower boards", isn't the whole top surface going to be heated and thus losing heat? Without measuring anything, I'd estimate the top surface area of KTBHs I've encountered as being at least double that of something like a National.

 

[madasafish]

???
The confusion of units confuses me!

Without extremely snug-fitting (and well-insulated) "follower boards", isn't the whole top surface going to be heated and thus losing heat? Without measuring anything, I'd estimate the top surface area of KTBHs I've encountered as being at least double that of something like a National.

My experience of TBHs is that although the topbars may be 25mm thick, the following are major issues unless specifically attended to:
1. the topbars are only a hand fit and are propolised together in winter. So small gaps between each board my be only 2mm or so deep...
2. The junction of topbars and side walls can be similar to 1. above. A likely cause of heat loss.

I do insulate roofs and sidewalls and place a layer of insulating board on top of the topbars.. and have the roof dropping down to cover the topbar/sidewall junction but still feel the topbar area is huge vs a national.. I have 4 feet wide TBHs so internal volume is nearer 80 liters rather than 40...

 

[user 6228]

???
The confusion of units confuses me!

Without extremely snug-fitting (and well-insulated) "follower boards", isn't the whole top surface going to be heated and thus losing heat? Without measuring anything, I'd estimate the top surface area of KTBHs I've encountered as being at least double that of something like a National.

i used the supplied 19mm thick follower board and adjusted it to give 40 litres volume (0.04m3 if you prefer). The follower board was sealed with gaffer tape on one side to simulate propolis. All the hives were tested at the capacity of one brood box ~40 litres (0.04m3), to simulate a minimal winter configuration.
thanks to DP for lending the KTBH.

 

[TryingToLetThemBee]

Took inventory on my Paynes order. Notably, four mating hives. Roll on swarming season!!!

 

[richardbees]

All the leaves have finally gone so I pruned all the surrounding shrubs/trees - nice to be able to work around the hives without a veil.

 

[Gilberdyke John]

Following the gale last night I found the granddaughters trampoline and Wendy House had been blown around the garden. With some trepidation I went to inspect the Apiary and was relieved to find all intact. The leafless hedges had provided adequate wind attenuation and saved the hives from damage.

 

[Dishmop]

Stood and watched bees from 5 hives looking for water..
10° and sunny.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

P!ssing down with us - spent a little time in the chamber of secrets tidying up - got somewhat cluttered for some reason

 

[Floyd]

Got up this morning after 90MPH winds here. Found our 30ft Eucalyptus tree had fallen within 4 feet of the house, another pine had fallen just near the hives but no harm done.

Lost two roof panels on the conservatory and also the TV arial.

Not as bad as my neighbour though who lost his Sedum roof, Windmill , Yurt and Caravan and they have only moved in 3 days ago!

 

[Hivemaker.]

Found our 30ft Eucalyptus tree had fallen within 4 feet of the house, another pine had fallen just near the hives but no harm done.

Eucalyptus can be quite good for wood turning, and the pine tree for making beehive frames.

 

[JohnyP]

Started putting together some ancient T commercial boxes which I acquired. Liberal use of mallet needed to get the box joints to fit. My poor ears are ringing. I should have used earplugs. They look very smart now, though

 

[philipm]

13 degrees here this afternoon ,noticed the Catkins are starting to come out .