Wax moth infector

[Gilberdyke John]

The video shows the suspension being sprayed onto what looks like foundation. Since the active part is a spore it would suggest the protection will remain in situ for an extremely long time as an uxb for the first larva that comes along. Unlike most uxb's it wont be active against other fauna.
Maybe someone knows how many years? the spores remain viable.

 

[alanf]

From people I have spoken to who have used it:

Do you squirt it in the hive or do you squirt it onto kit that you have taken out of the hive to put into storage ?

As in the video linked above. The video claims it is "the only treatment" when it's clearly only an alternative to freezing or acetic acid for stored comb.

And ... when would you use it in preference to freezing and sealing ?

In most cases you would freeze or acetic treat and seal because that would be cheaper. You could use it on comb when there was brood present but wax moth on comb that was in use would be a very heavy infestation.

And ... would you use it on a healthy hive with no signs of wax moth as a preventative against wax moth coming up to winter ?

Not if there was no wax moth problem already present, although the manufacturer and retailer are free to encourage you to use it as often as possible.

Is Certan ok on polyhives?

Yes, it's a suspension in water, no more harmful to poly than spraying water.

Maybe someone knows how many years? the spores remain viable.

Manufacturer claims it's effective on stored comb until it's used next season.

 

[Finman]

Maybe when Pargyle has more hives he may meet more of the problems, and understand. ?

Pargyle does not have yet "frame store".

 

[Finman]

Maybe someone knows how many years? the spores remain viable.

However you should change your frames.

Moth is dangerous in summer when temps are over 20C. They grow very quickly in warm. One female can make 300 egs.
However larva walks very quickly near freezing temperature.

If you for example pull off old combs, it is not big job to give protective spray when you store them for melting.

 

[Hivemaker.]

And it will keep for years if stored correctly.

B401 should be stored at a temp
erature between 5º C and 20° C. If stored in a
cool place (under 12°C) and in its well-sealed
original bottle, B 401 can be
kept for several years.


We use sulphur fumigation...very effective.

 

[Cazza]

I am happily using Certan for my stored frames. I used to rely on freezing but was caught out one year. Comb is valuable and precious to me so I'm not risking losing any again.
I've used it for the past 4? seasons. Easy to use, works well.
Can't see why you couldn't use it on a polyhive if you wanted to.
Cazza

 

[pargyle]

Maybe when Pargyle has more hives he may meet more of the problems, and understand. One seen on sticky board??.. bet they are in the hive.. you just didnt find them!!

I do all I can to eradicate wax moth.., freezing , sealed storage etc, but my polyhives have been severely eroded by these damned things. They are insidious, and even if you think they are gone - strip a frame down and there will be a larvae!!

Is Certan ok on polyhives?

Well Heather .... Could I suggest you have a close look at the frames in my inspection photos ... and tell me if YOU can see any wax moth larvae tracks in the comb ... and I have to say that my inspections included the inside and recesses of the hive ... I may only have one hive but I know what wax moth infestation looks like and I am not blind.

The reason I was asking about the treatment was the sure fire knowledge that wax moth is about as indemic in beekeeping as varroa and whilst I have not had to cope with it ... apart from as I said, one grub .... there's every likelihood that I will have to in the future.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99514363@N06/sets/http://www.flickr.com/photos/99514363@N06/sets/

 

[pargyle]

From people I have spoken to who have used it:
As in the video linked above. The video claims it is "the only treatment" when it's clearly only an alternative to freezing or acetic acid ......

Thanks Alan ... exactly what I wanted to know ... much appreciated.

I figured that it was generally used on stored comb when there was either no option for freezing or acetic acid and there were signs, or concerns, that wax moth could have laid eggs.

I could see no reason for using it in a healthy hive but the OP clearly suggested that it 'should' be used on a prophylactic basis... another case of chemical manufacturers inventing treatments for a problem that isn't there ?

I also knew that healthy hives really don't allow wax moth infestation to develop but wondered if I was missing something ... clearly not.

So ,,, thanks again.

HM ... thanks for the Video link as well ... clearly being used as it should be ... on combs about to be stored.

 

[REDWOOD]

from Beebase

control

Good strong colonies will not usually tolerate infestation by wax moth and it is not usually a problem in the field in healthy colonies. It is, however, it is a problem in either weak colonies or hives where colonies have died or in stored combs. In the field hives should be kept as strong and healthy as possible, combs should not be left lying around the apiary and dead colonies should be removed as this will attract wax moths (basic apiary hygene!). Lightly infested boxes may be placed on strong colonies to clean out, but heavily infested combs cannot be effectively treated and should be burned. In the apiary store it is possible to use B401 - a preparation of Bacillus thuringensis to treat the combs. All boxes that come back in from the apiary at the NBU are put through -20 freezers for at least 48 hrs to kill any adults, larvae or eggs before being stored in a caged area open to the cold during the winter.

 

[Finman]

from Beebase

control

Good strong colonies will not usually tolerate infestation by wax moth

. All boxes that come back in from the apiary at the NBU are put through -20 freezers for at least 48 hrs to kill any adults, larvae or eggs before being stored in a caged area open to the cold during the winter.

What are Good strong colonies, one box or 7 box?

That is really mad advice. According this you cannot have mating nucs or normal nucs.

If Ihave 20 hives, and I take off extra boxes off before winter feeding,
1 have 100 boxes free combs = 1000 frames.

If I put one box into a freezer per 2 days, I need 200 days in freezing. During that time wax morh destroyes the most of my free frames and nucs too-

Mad mad

 

[Hivemaker.]

What are Good strong colonies, one box or 7 box?

With regard to wax moth, any colony that occupies most of the area/space of the hive they are housed in, be it a double brood chamber Dadant, or a small mating nuc.

Get a bigger freezer.

 

[Finman]

.

However, it seems that I buy those bacteria spores.

Moth tends to make eggs to upper parts of frame stores, because they are warm.

I can make a lure to them. I spray upper boxes with spores and even put an 15W heater to invite them to the box.

This year I have killed about 50 moths and they did not make much damage, but 2 previous years were expencive disaster.

But I have in outdoor stores those frames which I will melt.
.

 

[bontbee]

native lepidoptera

I realise that this is last year's topic, but I have a question to which I have never had an answer.

When I bought Certan years ago, and read the details on the label about its mode of action, I contacted the company to check what the risk was to our native fauna. I was told that there was no data. In the video, Mr Watkins states that "it's specific for moths and butterflies", ie not just wax moth, (sorry I keep getting the urge to write murth).

Just wondered if anyone can answer the question about possible consequences for native butterflies and moths, particularly if it's used incorrectly / irresponsibly (and there's always someone, somewhere, who will).... - and who would know or notice if local populations of lepidoptera, say around beekeepers lairs, were affected?

Do any of you research / academic bods out there know anything different?

I've never used Certan because of the lack of a definite answer - we've caused enough problems by trying to manipulate nature to our own ends. I'm sure this will be regarded as pretty trivial, but I'd still like to know!

PS, For info, a bit late in the day, the instructions provided by Vita clearly say that it is for stored comb, see :
http://www.vita-europe.com/products/b401/


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