Wasp Bane

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patrickr

New Bee
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Jan 29, 2020
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Location
Pembrokeshire
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Hi. I've just set up my wasp bane. The guide says that it needs to be downwind of the apiary so that any wasps are trapped before they get to the apiary. It's catching some wasps but the wasps actually in the apiary are thus far ignoring it. My concern with putting it in the apiary is that it might actually attract wasps to the site. Has anyone got any experiences with putting it in different locations and what do people find is most effective. My dream is to eliminate all wasps :LOL: (sorry wasps!)
 
Hi. I've just set up my wasp bane. The guide says that it needs to be downwind of the apiary so that any wasps are trapped before they get to the apiary. It's catching some wasps but the wasps actually in the apiary are thus far ignoring it. My concern with putting it in the apiary is that it might actually attract wasps to the site. Has anyone got any experiences with putting it in different locations and what do people find is most effective. My dream is to eliminate all wasps :LOL: (sorry wasps!)
You do what Karol ( here on the forum..... who makes them) tells you in the instructions. You have it in the right place. It doesn’t let wasps out at all so attracting them is no problem. If you are having serious problems with one particular colony there are other instructions. Have a look on the website where there is a beekeeping section.
On a more general note underfloor entrances and tunnel entrances coupled with strong colonies are your best defence.
 
Please let us know how you get on / how effective the trap is - I have some others (not wasp bane) which are proving to be pretty poor.
 
I put a Waspbane out a month ago and trapped about 30 wasps in the first 24hrs, then not one since!

I assume they are not sweet-feeding yet. There are plenty of wasps hunting around the apiary but the bees are not being bothered by them
 
I assume they are not sweet-feeding yet. There are plenty of wasps hunting around the apiary but the bees are not being bothered by them
They certainly seem to be interested in sweet-feeding down here now. Putting the wet supers back on the hives today the wasps were as keen as the bees. Thankfully they don't (yet) seem to be bothering the hives other than mopping up the odd crawling bee.
 
There’s been a transition here to sweet stuff this week. Cider is now the main trap attractant. Wasps are also clearing up dead bees and snatching at bees on the landing boards, but not trying to enter the hives. So some are still collecting protein. Probably got wasps from two nests, at different stages.
 

Sorry, eliminate's a bit strong. Simply "discourage"; I'm trying to avoid having a serious wasp problem. At all other times of year I have no problem with wasps - I know they are important critters - but last year around late August I lost 3 hives to wasps so it's a sore point :cry: The good news is the bees are being defensive but a couple of hives aren't as strong as I'd like.
 
Thanks guys for all your replies. Some great advice. I'll check the Wasp Bane website now!
 
Sorry, eliminate's a bit strong. Simply "discourage"; I'm trying to avoid having a serious wasp problem. At all other times of year I have no problem with wasps - I know they are important critters - but last year around late August I lost 3 hives to wasps so it's a sore point :cry: The good news is the bees are being defensive but a couple of hives aren't as strong as I'd like.
Strong colonies and underfloor entrances are the easiest solution.
 
I second that. And in the absence of underfloor entrances then tunnel entrances are a must. The secret to a good entrance is not the size of the aperature but rather the length (i.e. depth) and height of entry. Height of entry must be controlled to one bee height and the longer the length of entry (depth of tunnel) the better because what deters wasps best is multiple ranks of defending sentry bees. Using such a construction allows for a wider entrance (50mm or so) which allows better foraging traffic when there's high flow without compromising hive defence.
 
I'm using waspinators this year. None of my hives are bothered by wasps so they must be working. I cant see the point of setting out wasp traps with syrop because they attract wasps. I would prefer they kept away in the first place.
 
I second that. And in the absence of underfloor entrances then tunnel entrances are a must. The secret to a good entrance is not the size of the aperature but rather the length (i.e. depth) and height of entry. Height of entry must be controlled to one bee height and the longer the length of entry (depth of tunnel) the better because what deters wasps best is multiple ranks of defending sentry bees. Using such a construction allows for a wider entrance (50mm or so) which allows better foraging traffic when there's high flow without compromising hive defence.
Do you have any pictures of tunnel entrances please?
Thanks
 
I'm using waspinators this year. None of my hives are bothered by wasps so they must be working. I cant see the point of setting out wasp traps with syrop because they attract wasps. I would prefer they kept away in the first place.
I'm pleased that it is working for you ... I looked at these last year as my grandaughter doesn't like wasps and we thought about hanging these up for garden barbecues and picnics .. but....the Amazon reviews are pretty damning in terms of their effectiveness so I didn't bother and we have used a waspbane trap when required - which definitely works. When we have a barbecue now I put a sign up saying No Wasps Invited and that seems to work as well.
 

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