Warming Cabinet Spec

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Location
Dublin ( South )
Hive Type
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Hi All

Need to replace my previously wired fridge gentle warming cabinet, basically need to replace the bulbs and fan, using same fridge for a more accurate version.

Any plans and links to good accurate thermostat and heaters welcome...

Thanks. Brian.
 
The STC 1000 is very good and coupled with a small oil filled heater makes for a great warmer.

PH
 
.
Normal oil filled room heater, £ 15
And fresh air fan £ 15. Digital thermometer to follow the temp. Fluctualtion of temp is +1/-1.

.
 
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That's the one in mine + the STC unit. Very accurate.

PH
 
I use an STC1000, a 120mm PC fan and a couple of 100w heater pads in a tall fridge.
the fan circulates the warm air to keep a relatively even temperature.

all of this bolted to a peice of aluminium with a thermal trip. if something fails, it cuts the electricity off.... safety first!
 
Take the end off the wired end off the tube (when it is unconnected!) and disconnect the bimetallic strip. Tape up bare end of wire. Test. Reassemble
 
Hi
Was asking if this model needed the safety cut off disconnecting?

I used a 120W tube heater and disconnected the thermostat in order to get the max out of it, the thermistor on the digital thermostat turns it on/off.
 
Some tube heaters have a thermo cut off preventing them going much above 30'C.
Can this one get the temp of the fridge up to 40-45'C?

I tend to set my thermostat at 35 degrees ... above 37 degrees honey loses some of the beneficial components - at 40 degrees you really are pushing the limits of what I would consider 'untreated' honey. I find it takes longer at 35 degrees but that it does become fluid ... let's face it .. 35 degrees is what the bees try to keep the inner hive temperature at so it should be good enough for honey. It helps to have a fan circulating the warm air around and a bit of patience.
 
Do check whether any internal switch is for energy saving, or as a safety switch to protect the heater.

Do not go removing safety features! Get an already safe heater, which will not explode or leak if heated above 35 degrees.

There are also several varities of STC1000 controllers. They are not all the same. Some have two sets of contacts, some only one. Some will operate both heating and cooling automatically, but others need manual selection, if changing the mode. Some have contacts rated at 5A, and others at 10A. Some are 240V but some are 110V.

Obviously most of the above is irrelevant for a low power heater, but future use might alter your current choice, so the cheapest may not be the a satisfactory choice.

An ATC800 would be sufficient (given the right ratings) if they are still available. Another alternative might be a high temperature vivarium heater thermostat, sometimes available on the usual auction site.

If you require even better heat control there are 'dimmer' type controllers that vary the power to the heater rather than an on-off situation. Not really needed for heating honey unless the heater has a much higher rating than mentioed above.

Mine are used for temperature control during wine fermentation and storage, so I need auto heating and cooling plus the heavier contact rating for starting a fridge compressor.
 
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