Underfloor-entrance hives failing to keep out wasps

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I am intrigued. Would you say that attaching one of these entrances on the inside of the circular tunnel entrance of a Maisemore poly nuc (or Paynes poly nuc etc) would work? Or would it limit traffic in and out of the single entrance too much?

Interesting suggestion! The entrance hole of my Payne's polynucs are 1'' diameter but not completely round but flat/horizontal at the lowest part of the circle.
I bought one of these Intrance kits at BeeTradex last March. I did not insert three in the brood box as suggested but put one in several supers = bees continue to enter the BB via the UFE but could also use the upper entrance/s if they wished. As per attached pic, very few bees used the upper entrance/s. [Paradoxically, some of my boxes are ancient and given any gaps in the woodwork the bees cluster like mad in a frenzy to use these alternative entrances]
 

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I bought one of these Intrance kits at BeeTradex last March.
I installed 'intrances' in a couple of hives. The bees quickly got used to the three entrances on the brood box and didn't seem to use the upper entrance. However, the instructions state that the OMF should be replaced by a solid floor. Because of the warm weather (I guess), this stressed the bees and they became quite loud inside the hive. It was unnerving! Perhaps they were fanning to bring down the heat? Anyway, I couldn't bear it and restored the OMF after a few days. I still have the intrances, though. The wasps were no trouble.
 
Ive seen wasps find their way in through pretty much any type of entrance, with little respect for designs. Reducing to a single bee way is as close to foolproof as you will get, but even that is no defence when wasps are flying in far lower temos than bees
Like everything else , "the answer is strong colonies"( pretty sure im quoting someone but no idea who) If wasps can find frames without bees on, where they can feed unchallenged then theyll be back with mates.
Dummying down to the frames with bees on is the single best defence once theyve shown interest in a hive .
Moving them may give temporary respite but the odds are they will be found by more wasps.
 
Thanks for all your replies. I've just returned from reversing the nadirs on the seven hives in my HQ apiary, prompted by Ian123's post above.

One colony has been virtually wiped out - all I found was a 2020 queen (purchased from Hivemaster in June) and a couple of hundred bees. I've put them in a small nuc but the wasps were entering again as I left. I should have acted much sooner. The colony was much stronger eight weeks ago when I treated for varroa. Presumably defensive traits of the workers are inherited from both parents.

Most of the nadired shallows were empty, having been fairly full six weeks ago. The stores have been moved up into the BB, also robbed I guess. Previous years I have left the shallows below the BB over winter, believing it shields the bees from draughts. I do not normally like moving boxes around at this time of year.

Lest you all think this is a tale of total incompetance I stress that this wasp invasion of most of my hives is something new . My nadiring practice hitherto has served me well. My two out apiaries (four hives) are doing well.
I have nadired supers in previous years with good success. Last year I put a super full of honey beneath a brood box and it got robbed out by wasps. The colony was OK but the stores were lost. I think the problem is that changing the boxes round with no brood near the entrance the bees take a time to learn to defend the new position of the entrance. If there aren't many wasps around then all will be well. This year I have waited until quite late, lest the same thing happened again. I haven't actually seen many wasps this year, unlike some beekeepers. So, even if you do exactly the same thing there are other variables at work that will give you a different outcome. "Bees never do anything invariably" and add to that the outside influences it is a marvel that anything ever goes as we expect! 🐝
 
I fully agree Greg but the timber sizes and lack of availability of deep boards is a pain. I have used best quality ply for the BBs but I am going to glue up timber next time around. Making Langstroth style would be a whole lot easier than National?


I made 7 lang B Boxes from sctach and about 20 supers.

And two National nucs.


Deep Boards? I join two boards together using dowels and glue clamped to together. (Even using good quality pallet boards for the Nationals - but that is a pia.

Langstroths are a doddle. I just butt edge and use BIG screws - works well. Cut handholds using a circular saw and ramp (see You Tube). Rout the frame holds.

None of the fancy woodwork round the front and rear of a National..

I am a poor woodworker with a cheap Aldi routing table. a cheaper s/h Screwfix saw table and a few clamps.
If I can do it, a more competent diyer would find it easy.

I reckon a National takes 50% more labour than a Langstroth.
 
"There are Asian Hornets around too, so I'm going to reduce my entrance to 6mm. Its worrying nonetheless."
That's a relief, not this side of the Chanel then...!
Yes you are still fortunate. I have seen some pretty good traps, if ever they do make it across.
 
if the wasps are too relentless might be worthwhile finding the nest and relocate or eridicate it.

i know we are not keen to kill wasps as they are good pollenators etc but if its a menace we gotta do what we gotta do. Find it and relocate it would be best.

i had to clear out 2 wasps nests in my allotment this year as they are giving plotholders alot of grief, they seem to be very fond of compost heaps. a lady got badly stung as she tried to scoop compost out from the heap and disturbed the nest without realising the nest is there in the first place and they went after her.

i considering relocating it but can't find a safe place to relocate it in allotment or neighbourhood without it causing issues to the community hence had to euthanise it .
 
if the wasps are too relentless might be worthwhile finding the nest and relocate or eridicate it.

i know we are not keen to kill wasps as they are good pollenators etc but if its a menace we gotta do what we gotta do. Find it and relocate it would be best.

i had to clear out 2 wasps nests in my allotment this year as they are giving plotholders alot of grief, they seem to be very fond of compost heaps. a lady got badly stung as she tried to scoop compost out from the heap and disturbed the nest without realising the nest is there in the first place and they went after her.

i considering relocating it but can't find a safe place to relocate it in allotment or neighbourhood without it causing issues to the community hence had to euthanise it .
I wonder if putting up fake nests would help. They are meant to dissuade wasps/hornets making any nest in the vicinity.
 
Vespa take no notice of other nests, if anything they probably decide that if there is another then it's a good place to build.
The myth not only from some beeks and non beeks alike.
Some twelve or so years ago when carrying out some renovation work for a customer we opened up a roof void for conversion and boy did we pull out some Vespa nest's, some were huge and co - joined.
 
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Vespa take no notice of other nests, if anything they probably decide that if thee is another then it's a good place to build.
The myth not only from some beeks and non beeks alike.
Some twelve or so years ago when carrying out some renovation work for a customer we opened up a roof void for conversion and boy did we pull out some Vespa nest's, some were huge and co - joined.
Good to know. Thanks.
 
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