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Ely

Queen Bee
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Messages
2,645
Reaction score
227
Location
Norfolk
Hive Type
Langstroth
Number of Hives
2
I've finally started my project of building a top bar hive. I have an old table top that I'm using for the sides, it's about an inch and a half thick. I've got pallet wood for top bars. So far I've made one follower board before the useless battery ran out after 5 minutes. Does it matter how thick the follower is? I could also use some advise on how to make a gabled roof. Thanks
 
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Really doesn't matter too much about the thickness of the follower boards. The roof is pretty simple to make - if you're using the free downloadable plans there's support for the two roof "ends" on top of the legs - essentially you're making a "box" for the roof - I made mine with a gabled roof, and finished it off using recycled printing plates (ask your friendly local printer!)
Here's one I made earlier!
tbh.jpg


This is a bait hive I made with a flat roof - it may show the construction better -
pimp.jpg
 
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Thankyou. Yip I'm using the plans from biobees. I'm sure I must have some waterproof material knocking around somewhere. Do you have room for insulation in your roof?
 
Yes there's room, if you want more space for insulation, just make the roof deeper........
 
brosville where did you get the metal for the bait hive roof?
 
It was a roll of checker plate I picked up cheap at a boot fair - real "pimp my hive" job! :biggrinjester:
 
It looks well.
Where would you normally buy it?
 
Car accessory shop?
 
Project so far. It doesn't matter how careful I am the measurements never come out right. Hopefully be alright for a bodge
 
Looks nice.

Hope you are a bodybuilder. if not, you may need one to move it...:icon_204-2:
 
I was thinking the same thing as I was cutting the sides :D. Maybe I should put it on wheels. At least it'll be insulated. I'm going to sand the old varnish off so I can weather proof it. I'll have to get help to rotate the hive for artificial swarms. I've got confused on how to get the legs cut to be level. There's a good video on youtube to watch though that'll explain it. I need to find more wood for the roof now
 
Almost there.
2ia4ihi.jpg
 
Can't really tell from the last picture but are the bolt heads for the legs recessed into the side panels or sticking out inside the hive?

If they are protruding out you might find the bees attach comb to them which may cause a few problems. When I built mine I used domed head bolts as I had some in the garage and also the side panels weren't thick enough to recess them.
 
If you must have metalwork inside the hive (and it's not a good idea as bees really don't like metal) I would take Mike's advice and use domed head coach bolts ... they also have a square section under the domed head which will hold the coach bolt in place if ever you need to take the legs off the hive with the bees still in place. I see, very sensibly, that you have got the other securing bolt through the timber on the end panels outside of the hive body.

It's all looking good ... well done.
 
Can't really tell from the last picture but are the bolt heads for the legs recessed into the side panels or sticking out inside the hive?

If they are protruding out you might find the bees attach comb to them which may cause a few problems. When I built mine I used domed head bolts as I had some in the garage and also the side panels weren't thick enough to recess them.

Hi. The bolts do go inside the hive but I put the screw end on the outside so it is just the bolt head on the inside. My woodworking skills aren't great
 
If you must have metalwork inside the hive (and it's not a good idea as bees really don't like metal) I would take Mike's advice and use domed head coach bolts ... they also have a square section under the domed head which will hold the coach bolt in place if ever you need to take the legs off the hive with the bees still in place. I see, very sensibly, that you have got the other securing bolt through the timber on the end panels outside of the hive body.

It's all looking good ... well done.
Cheers. I was hoping not to spend any money but I might swap the bolts for the ones you've suggested.

Despite concentrating with measurements it has still turned out wonky. Its going to be difficult to get the top bars level. I might get some of those levelers that you find on the bottom of cookers etc
Sent from my XT615 using Tapatalk 2
 
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Don't worry about the bolts at all - if you wanted to be "perfectionist" about it you could use coach bolts with the domed heads inside, bit in practice the bees are confined between the follower boards, so there are no comb attachment problems..........
 
Cheers. I was hoping not to spend any money but I might swap the bolts for the ones you've suggested.

Despite concentrating with measurements it has still turned out wonky. Its going to be difficult to get the top bars level. I might get some of those levelers that you find on the bottom of cookers etc
Sent from my XT615 using Tapatalk 2

Don't worry about 'wonky' .. if bees love hollow trees they'll love the 'des res' you have made for them. If there are a few gaps or things are not quite straight the bees will sort them out ... they love decorating everything with propolis !
 
Don't worry about 'wonky' .. if bees love hollow trees they'll love the 'des res' you have made for them. If there are a few gaps or things are not quite straight the bees will sort them out ... they love decorating everything with propolis !

Cheers. I think Ill have to re-do the followers as they leave gaps down the sides

Sent from my XT615 using Tapatalk 2
 

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