TBH build

[drex]

Don't worry about 'wonky' .. if bees love hollow trees they'll love the 'des res' you have made for them. If there are a few gaps or things are not quite straight the bees will sort them out ... they love decorating everything with propolis !

For Pargyle's info a TBH does need to be level otherwise the comb will not hang straight.

When I made mine I followed the suggestion from biobees, and made the followers first, and used them as a template for the hive sides, that way you know they will be a snug fit. Next time Ely, as I am sure like me you will want another. Did you put in an observation window? A bit more hassle, but I am glad I did.

 

[Ely]

I haven't put an observation window in. Do you just cut a hole and glue perspex on? I did actually use the followers as a mould but for some reason there was still gaps after screwing together.

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[DanBee]

If you must have metalwork inside the hive (and it's not a good idea as bees really don't like metal)

Care to elaborate on this...?

 

[drex]

No Ely, You have to rebate the window so that it is flush, otherwise your follower boards will not work. I used glass as reasoned I would have to scrape it to keep it see through, which has proven to be the case. I have a hinged shutter over the top to keep light out and heat in.
Sure there are plans somewhere on net for it ? biobees?

 

[pargyle]

For Pargyle's info a TBH does need to be level otherwise the comb will not hang straight.
.

Yes ... you are quite right, it is important to have the hive standing level - I was under the impression that the OP was referring to the straightness of the hive itself, rather than it not being level, but thanks for clarifying my post.

 

[Ely]

I think I'll give it a miss while the goings good. Ill prob muck the whole thing up. I'm not sure I would use it that often

 

[pargyle]

I think I'll give it a miss while the goings good. Ill prob muck the whole thing up. I'm not sure I would use it that often

Try it in your next hive build ... it gets to be a bit of an addiction, once you've made one hive you know you can do it better next time.

I came across an old glass bathroom shelf in my garage, it's toughened glass and rectangular, good for an observation window and pretty much ideal size - so that's going into my next hive build. It would be easier to do it before you put the hive together - if you don't have a router then just cut a hole the size of the glass you have and then put a small timber bead around the inside of the hole so that the glass sits flush on the inside of the hive. You will have to make a lid to cover the glass panel (for insulation and to keep the hive dark) but if you are clever you can use the piece of wood you cut out for the hole for the window.

 

[Ely]

Cool thanks. How many have you built? Had any issues with swarming? Get much honey? I want a colony in a tbh out of interest rather than honey production but it's always a bonus. How do you avoid crushing bees between top bars?

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[pargyle]

Cool thanks. How many have you built? Had any issues with swarming? Get much honey? I want a colony in a tbh out of interest rather than honey production but it's always a bonus. How do you avoid crushing bees between top bars?

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I've built 3 full size one's so far and I'm just working on 2 bait hives. No bees yet ... was intent on starting last year but such diabolical weather it never happened. Should be getting my first hive up and running by May if all goes to plan. So... I'm probably not the best person to answer your other questions from a personal view ... I know the answers from all the research I've done prior to getting my bees and the huge number of contacts I've made with other TBH beekeepers but you should really get your answers from the horse's mouth ...rather than second hand from me. I think you will find a lot of the answers you seek on that 'other' natural beekeeping forum that will remain unmentioned here !

 

[Ely]

Ok cheers. I think I should get b & q to do my top bars. I think the dimensions need to be exact if the comb is to be straight

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[pargyle]

Ok cheers. I think I should get b & q to do my top bars. I think the dimensions need to be exact if the comb is to be straight

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The width of the top bars should be between 32mm & 36mm ... the only reason for this dimension is to reduce the incidence of bees building the comb across more than one top bar. Wickes and other DIY stores sell planed strip wood that is 32mm x 12mm so all you have to do is cut it to length.

If you use a starter strip of some kind (Beeswax strip, triangular bead, groove filled with beeswax etc.) then this will encourage the bees to build one comb per top bar and start off straight... but bees can be perverse so you might find that they do as they please anyway ! As was said earlier, making sure the hive is level will also encourage the bees to make the comb vertical.

Regardless of this you may find, occasionally, that cross combing will occur and your only option at that stage is to adjust it as soon as you notice it by freeing it from the adjacent bar and bending it back to its correct bar to straighten it.

 

[pargyle]

Care to elaborate on this...?

Well ... I could ... but I think I'll resist the temptation to open your can of worms ! Thankyou ....

 

[madasafish]

I buy my bars 38mm wide from B&Q http://tinyurl.com/aaa22ct

but buy in bundles of 8 as cheaper.

Triangular guide with wax rubbed on.. easy peasy...

 

[Ely]

Cheers dudes

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[DanBee]

Well ... I could ... but I think I'll resist the temptation to open your can of worms ! Thankyou ....

So we'll take that as "no evidence that bees don't like metal" then?

Just seemed odd that the statement was made with such apparent conviction.

 

[pargyle]

So we'll take that as "no evidence that bees don't like metal" then?

Just seemed odd that the statement was made with such apparent conviction.

You may take it whatever way you wish ... my view holds firm. But thank you for your opinion, bless you.

 

[madasafish]

So we'll take that as "no evidence that bees don't like metal" then?

Just seemed odd that the statement was made with such apparent conviction.

I use small copper or steel nails to attach the triangular rails to the top bars _ and PU glue. No evidence at all - ever - of any gaps in comb at the metal nail heads.

BUT in National frames with foundation and wire, I have seen the bees refuse to draw out comb where the wires are. Not all bees, not every comb.. just some bees, some comb.

Make of that what you will...

 

[pargyle]

I use small copper or steel nails to attach the triangular rails to the top bars _ and PU glue. No evidence at all - ever - of any gaps in comb at the metal nail heads.

BUT in National frames with foundation and wire, I have seen the bees refuse to draw out comb where the wires are. Not all bees, not every comb.. just some bees, some comb.

Make of that what you will...

Yes ... thanks MAF ... I use copper and brass and stainless ... and try and keep these limited but I avoid any plain steel inside the hive. My hive legs are held in place by coach bolts but they are contained in pieces of timber attached to the outside of the hive, not through bolted into the hive.

All completely unsubstantiated by any real science of course ... just heresay -or heresy if you listen to some on here - will I be burned at the stake ? Probably !

 

[madasafish]

Yes ... thanks MAF ... I use copper and brass and stainless ... and try and keep these limited but I avoid any plain steel inside the hive. My hive legs are held in place by coach bolts but they are contained in pieces of timber attached to the outside of the hive, not through bolted into the hive.

All completely unsubstantiated by any real science of course ... just heresay -or heresy if you listen to some on here - will I be burned at the stake ? Probably !

Burned at the stake?

Far too good for the likes of you.

Hanging, drawing and quartering is more longer lasting and more visually visceral (!) and of course, much more fun for the bystanders.. And less smelly as well...

 

[Hivemaker.]

The majority of queen excluders are made of steel and bees seem to have no problem with passing through them,certainly no ill effects that i have ever noticed.

The exception to this are some Carniolans, some of them can be very reluctant to pass through an exluder to work in boxes of drawn comb above, even using plastic excluders, they seem to just fill the brood box with stores and go into swarming mode, rather than pass through an excluder, i have a couple of colonies like this, give them an open brood nest (no excluder) and they are fine.