Some things I found out

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Tremyfro

Queen Bee
Joined
May 19, 2014
Messages
2,434
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Location
Vale of Glamorgan
Hive Type
Beehaus
Number of Hives
Possibly...5 and a bit...depends on the bees.
I am a new beekeeper. Since I started I have looked at lots of equipment, tried out some, read an awful lot...old and new....and watched video and utube.
It is clear that beekeeping is a home grown occupation. Tradition leads the way. The ideas and innovations often die an early death in the face of lack of funds. The enthusiasm cannot be faulted though...everyone I meet is so enamoured of bees...
I am beginning to find the way that I like to do my beekeeping. The equipment I choose to use and methods that I like to follow.
I was thinking today after doing some inspecting...how much easier working a long hive is compared to the double brood and supers of a vertical hive. Even moving a long hive is possible with the trolley.
Just lifting one frame at a time. Push the stores to one side....disturbing the brood nest a frame at a time instead of splitting it in half from the outset. The low murmur of the bees doesn't change as I inspect. The bees just carry on doing bee things.
When I inspect a vertical hive.....the bees speak an objection as the brood nest is split apart. Although after a moment or two they settle again...it cannot be compared to the long hives.
Hive type...one aspect of choice and use.
How easy using plastic frames compared to the stickiness of the wooden ones.
They slide along the rails and lift out easily. Cleaning is straightforward.
Changing to using a OA sublimator for varroa treatment....and thinking about treatment free colonies...if I am ever brave enough.
Learning how to do colony manipulations, recognising the prompts and signals. Hearing how others do the same and how it all turns out.
The joy of opening a hive and seeing lots of beautiful white comb...built to their own specification.
Remembering to wash the bee brush after using it..otherwise it becomes a sticky mess!
Being prepared...before starting an inspection and ticking off each observation and keeping good notes. Having a plan but being prepared to adapt.
Slowly...a Bee Yard has been created...a Bee Barn put up and a Bee Garden planted.
Showing the children an empty queen cell....
Listening to experienced beekeepers argue back and forth..advising and helping and sharing ......everyone has a favourite way of doing beekeeping.
 
when you say a long hive do you mean a beehaus or a lang or tbh? just interested.

I run lots of diff hives that are all based on the national foot print, nat, 14x12, commercial and find the commercial is my personal fav as it has a big enough brood area but is very heavy if needed to be moved. where as the national is lighter.

I have started a TBH this summer (I call it my coffin as its long enough to be, and sometimes im sure my wife would like to put me in it lol). Im looking forward to seeing how it expands over the next couple of years and if it will work for producing some really nice comb honey.
 
each to their own, no mention of risen heat helping to dry honey or spreading the queen pheromone. but good luck with your choices. everyone differs.
what I say is you do what you do and live with the results
 
I started with poly hives ...a national and a jumbo. It soon became clear that the jumbo was a much better size brood box...but just too heavy when full of brood and stores. Especially when doing swarm control. The national was better but I was soon onto double brood...so still a lot of lifting.
I had listened to other people about their experiences with long hives. It sounded like it might be right for me......Then I advertised for a long hive ..which took frames.
I wanted a dartington but the ones people had and didnt want were old and needed a lot of tlc...woodwork is a bit beyond me frankly. Then I was offered a Beehaus....now I have 4. They have been pimped quite a bit...the bees are doing well in them.
I will soon be moving my biggest colony into one ...and I am looking forward to the easier manipulations. The larger frames..14x12...from the jumbo brood box... Will be the same...but since I was shown how to rotate them properly...I find them easy.
As with most things...using the right technique is important...but often has to be found out by laborious process. It has sometimes been difficult to find out about using a long hive without doing the happy clappy bit....which is fine if it floats your boat but I am of a rather more scientific mind.
Some people on the forum have been very helpful.
I like my long hives.
 
each to their own, no mention of risen heat helping to dry honey or spreading the queen pheromone. but good luck with your choices. everyone differs.
what I say is you do what you do and live with the results

Ha ha...I'm afraid you jumped the gun there......my hives have supers....so rising warmth may be utilised. I believe queen pheromone is spread from bee to bee.
Not all long hives have supers but usually they can be used with a little innovation.
I am not brave enough to start a TBH....but I can imagine it is fun and a real insight into a bee colony arranging their own combs.
This is a post about choices and why we make them.
 
Ha ha...I'm afraid you jumped the gun there.....
This is a post about choices and why we make them.

Well .. I 'came out' about three years ago ... as another Long Deep Hive owner - Lots of positives.

I wonder how many other closet LDH owners lurk in the shadows ? Come on now - you are not alone !
 
When I see all the flack you face by using anything other than run of the mill equipment...I don't blame people for keeping quiet.
Having been using the long hives for a while now.....I really cannot see what all the fuss was about.
All the rubbish written about an oblong box! All of mine are great. Like all hives of course you do need to understand how to use them. I am learning all the time I am sure there are lots of people on here with long hives and thank goodness to Pargyle for blazing a trail.
For me the ease of use is key to keeping bees...especially when I need to do an inspection on my own as it is impossible for me to lift the heavy boxes. I admire those women who merrily step up and lift wooden brood boxes...
I will continue to use my nationals too. I will have to...they are all full of bees.
I would like to be able to discuss problems and issues without having to defend my choice of hive. So many people get driven away by the less than pleasant reception they get if they mention the Beehaus.
 
I am learning all the time I am sure there are lots of people on here with long hives and thank goodness to Pargyle for blazing a trail..


Don't blame me ... the Romans were using Long Hives a bit before I decided to build one ! Not to mention Robin Dartington and a few others ...

I just reinvented the wheel by adding a bit of insulation ...
 
Well .. I 'came out' about three years ago ... as another Long Deep Hive owner - Lots of positives.

I wonder how many other closet LDH owners lurk in the shadows ? Come on now - you are not alone !

Has to be said I have played around with every format of moveable frame and top bar combination going.... majority of my colonies are now housed in BHS polly standard Nationals, best all around and everything fits.
I still have a mish - mash of WBCs and Dartington ( empty) plus a TBH on Phill Chandlers design...and hoorah!... have managed to find a hobby beekeeper to take away the Warre!
The final remains of the Langstroths, Dadant and Commercials heated the soda boiler and I keep a couple of smiths frames to show new beekeepers what they look like.

I wonder if a Flow hive will appear in the hobby corner... probably not as on some strange foreign box format.


Each to their own


Yeghes da
 
I have had TBHs for 5 years. But they are thermally very inefficient so unless properly built and insulated, winter survival for those kept in higher colder lattitudes is problematic.
Not helped by the initial advice to run without bottom boards in winter.

I like them - but honey collecting is laborious (crush and strain) and they require special techniques.
 
I like them - but honey collecting is laborious (crush and strain) and they require special techniques.

Sell it as it is.... once saw a "Natural comb" of honey in a special frame... uncapped ( ? hairdryer?) honey flowing into a bowl, ready for the breakfast ryebread I think it was in a 5 star hotel in Germany... possibly Koln Lock & Key Fair around 1980???

Last year sold one rather nice comb for £35 ... seems to be a market for it!

Yeghes da
 
Yes....my polys are mainly MB...I like the way they fit together....but I don't really like the bar that the frame rests on...the bees can glue it down really easily and you have to be especially careful when replacing frames as it is flat and they do love to crowd just where you want to put the frame! I prefer a bar which is more angular and there is a space for the bees without squashing any. My Paynes jumbo hive is lovely but far too heavy when full!
The Beehaus have good rails...and the frames slide easily along them.
I have pimped my Beehaus quite a bit. I have one more to do before the winter is upon us. Pargyle has given me some great ideas for monitoring....
 
I have had TBHs for 5 years. But they are thermally very inefficient so unless properly built and insulated, winter survival for those kept in higher colder lattitudes is problematic.
Not helped by the initial advice to run without bottom boards in winter.

I like them - but honey collecting is laborious (crush and strain) and they require special techniques.

That is why...when I started working with the hives..I decided whatever long hive I had...it needed lots of insulation...like the polys. It is interesting to hear you had problems with the bottom of the hive being open to the elements. I live in a very windy place...well it has been windy since I moved here..I can't believe it just started! So I decided that the large OMF would be a liability during winter months. Boards reducing the area and offering some insulation are in place now...in fact they have been in all summer...as every time I think about taking them off...the weather deteriorates.
My extractor takes 14x12 frames...but most of the honey is in the supers. I don't intend taking any from the brood chamber as this season has been poor and the colonies are still maturing......
I suppose in a TBH...things are arranged rather differently. You can do cut comb and of course you would get lots of wax for candle etc.
 
No problem with cold... tis damp ( and wet beekeeperers constantly interfering that kills bees!)


[Got rid of the five MB pollies because nothing fitted them... even each other!!!]

Yeghes da
 
No problem with cold... tis damp ( and wet beekeeperers constantly interfering that kills bees!)


[Got rid of the five MB pollies because nothing fitted them... even each other!!!]

Yeghes da

Hmm...my MB polys seem to fit fine....no damp. My bees definitely get non interference by me. I go in the colonies as little as I think I can get away with!
I was concerned about the damp initially...but I have recently read called The Behaviour of Bees by H J Wadley... Very interesting about how bees use water in the hive...well worth a read.
 
What does he say?
Please

Bees need water to dilute honey to eat so condensation inside a hive is useful.

(Which is Ok if it's NOT from the crown board dripping onto the combs).

One TBH in winter 2011 had a 8 cm long stalactite of yellowish ice hanging from one end - condensation from the side wall at a corner...outside the hive. It was -17C that night.
 
I go in the colonies as little as I think I can get away with!

You should try Tasmania... wonderful Amm country... and the aroma from the leatherwood!

( Told SWMBO I was popping over to Launceston....)


Yeghes da
 
What does he say?
Please

He says quite a lot about water in the hive....a whole chapter.
He talks about bees taking advantage of atmospheric pressure for the water hungry hygroscopic honey. That the colony contrives to get the water vapour in the very place it is required...with a minimum of labour...onto the small areas of uncapped honey. It is fascinating reading.
He talks about the bees having sufficient ripe, capped stores...the emphasis on it being capped. He says bees can cope with the level of moisture in the hive when small areas of honey are uncapped by themselves...but not if they go into cluster with large areas of sugar syrup or honey...as this makes the air heavily charged with moisture and condensation may be heavy and rapid.
Old books can be so interesting...he explains it all very well. Lots more also to find within the pages of this little book.
Icanopit.....ha ha ha ...I just got that on the second reading! Tee Hee....not actualy been there...though I always wanted to...love the wildlife programmes. I have been to Australia a number of times...but that was many years ago.
What is the ...wet beekeepers ..bit?
I do believe that a hive well insulated helps the colony though. The success of the poly hive for instance is down to the insulation.
In the little book by Wadey...he talks about painted hives and how it traps the moisture within the hive...adding greatly to its weight and enclosing the bees in a wet box which is little more than a windbreak. Apparently he weighed a painted Langstroth...then dried it well and found it lost nearly 10 lbs weight of water...interesting...he also said in cold weather they become lined with ice...hence the icicles seen in the hive.
Fascinating.
 

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