Second apiguard treatment

[JamezF]

I should be doing mine this weekend, but the weather has been horrible so far -- occasional patches of sun separated by heavy showers, and no sign of improvement today.

I can't decide whether to try to do it today because I have the time and just whip through the hives as fast as I possibly can so the bees don't realise what's going on before the roof is back on, or to try to sneak some time off work later in the week and gamble on the weather improving.

I'm erring on the side of the former at the moment, but perhaps I'll see how the weather goes this morning and make a decision at lunchtime.

James

 

[Nose Ma]

The "fast and dirty" approach worked for me - I opened the tin first, then roof off, crownboard off, new one in (still some product in the old one), c/b on, roof on. I am sure some heat would have dissapated, but the bees barely noticed. Had it been raining I could have got away with partially removing the c/b (say half way) and with bending over the hive kept nealy all the rain out.
No smoke, no water spray.
It may be a different prospect with many hives.

 

[MrB]

just whip through the hives as fast as I possibly can so the bees don't realise what's going on before the roof is back on,

James

i tried this removing a super that was on to be cleaned, did it in a bit of a rush, and a bit heavy handed and wearing only my occasianal veil.

Guess what, I got stung!!

another lesson learnt the hard way

must add, this was my colony of local bee's

 

[Arfermo]

The "fast and dirty" approach worked for me - I opened the tin first, then roof off, crownboard off, new one in (still some product in the old one), c/b on, roof on. QUOTE]

JamezF,
As you will gather from Nose Ma, he is already into the second stage of the 4 week treatment and the weather is deteriorating to the stage where it is getting too late for a fully effective treatment. Round where I am most in my BKA start the process during the second half of August, when temperatures are high enough for the thymol to evaporate ie aboce 15 C and where the bees can still harvest balsam after a super has been reloaded. I'm not saying you should not try it but I am absolutely certain you should do it NOW if at all regardless of the weather and cross your fingers. More important though is to do the oxalic at Xmas (despite the cold) as that really is THE knockdown like no other for the mites and will ensure the colony is strong for the following season.

 

[VEG]

The temp in the hive is pretty stable so the apiguard should work ok. I am treating mine early (for me) next weekend, it suits my local conditions and I havent had any probs doing it this way.

 

[Skyhook]

How long does it take to change a tray of apiguard? 10 seconds? As long as its not coming down stair rods, get in there. Tin to hand and open, roof off, CB off, swop trays, CB on, roof on.

 

[For want of a better word]

More important though is to do the oxalic at Xmas (despite the cold) as that really is THE knockdown like no other for the mites and will ensure the colony is strong for the following season.

No appologies Afermo...............opening the hive up in midwinter is a bit foolhardy, perhaps gassing with oxallic may be a better way to go, but from what I have read it seems that oxallic acid in whatever form it is used can only ever be an adjunct to a thymol treatment.
Daresay the argument will rage on thru this fall and into spring as it did last year.. and the year before... and the years before that...

I shall get my TIN HAT now.........................
__________________

 

[Arfermo]

I "gas" them as you call it and I do it from under the OMF on a thin steel sheet which fits in the mite drop sheet slot. Thus I don't open the hive, nor do I even poke the evaporator in through the entrance. So, miminum disturbance and maximum effect. Omit oxalic at your peril imho!!

 

[raysa]

Oxalic acid vapours are extremely dangerous to humans, and applying OA by the 'gassing' method needs a great deal of care. Dribbling it from the top is simpler, safer and effective.

Don't worry about opening hives in mid-winter for a brief operation like this - the bees are really not troubled by the cold. Exposure to cold is more of a worry in Spring and Autumn when there's a risk of causing chilled brood, but there is little or no brood present at Christmas & New Year so this is not a concern.

Some alternative treatments (eg formic acid) even involve removing individual frames for spraying in mid-winter, and still the bees suffer no great harm. I have watched the regional bee inspector do this on a bright but bitingly cold late-December day.

Really - no need to worry about lifting off the roof and crown board for the few seconds it takes to top-dribble OA.

 

[Hivemaker.]

Some alternative treatments (eg formic acid) even involve removing individual frames for spraying in mid-winter, and still the bees suffer no great harm

What is the mixture of formic acid used to spray bees on the frames.

 

[JamezF]

Well, they're all done and mostly without any bother. One bee from one hive was particularly aggressive and followed me about until I was pretty much done, but with that exception everything was surprisingly calm.

James

 

[victor meldrew]

Well, they're all done and mostly without any bother. One bee from one hive was particularly aggressive and followed me about until I was pretty much done, but with that exception everything was surprisingly calm.

James

If one bee was aggressive it would have stung you
One bee following ;head butting even! isn't a sign of an aggressive colony
Worry not your bees would appear to tolerate interference !
VM

 

[JamezF]

Well, aggressive from my point of view Perhaps "defensive" might have been a better choice of word.

I do have one colony that isn't particularly pleasant to deal with, but I only took over looking after it this season and I need to get it onto new comb first because the sheer amount of propolis in the brood chamber has everything pretty much welded down. I attempted to lift some frames out, but became concerned about the amount of force I was going to need to use. That will be one of my first jobs next spring, so I can get them requeened if (as seems likely) it still appears necessary.

James

 

[victor meldrew]

Carniolans use lots of propolis ! coincidentally , the second cross of same throw proportionally more overly defensive colonies up than average !
VM

 

[JamezF]

Aren't they supposed to be quite bright yellow though, or am I confusing my bees?

James

 

[victor meldrew]

Aren't they supposed to be quite bright yellow though, or am I confusing my bees?

James

You are confusing your bees
They are dark bees with light grey stripes
Very gentle, heavy users of propolis, prone to swarming and can be a bad mix with other subspecies !
VM

 

[JamezF]

Well, that's not good then. Now I need to remember what type the bright yellow ones are.

James

 

[victor meldrew]

They will have Italian bees in their ancestry Apis Melifica Lingusta !
VM