Reducing entrance

[Swarm]

Itma,
I've never removed the entrance blocks from my hives for whatever reason, let alone fit a mouseguard. I've heard the pile of corpses theory as well. You either accept it or dismiss it as **** and wouldn't a row of nails give you the same problem?

 

[victor meldrew]

Am I right in thinking that such a 'Dartington-type' entrance would not be 'reduced' against wasps?

This year is the first year I've tried these floors and to be honest they have been tested neither for their Wasp nor Mouse deterrent features !
Wasps have been noticeable by their absence this year and I haven't done a Winter on them!
The theory goes that the wasps have to pass a two line defence ! Firstly, guard bees on the alighting board and secondly the top of the slotted entrance .
The wasp cannot fly directly into the hive but must crawl over 3" up an 8MM gap, giving the internal guards ample time to repel them !
Another benefit is the ease of ejecting dead bees as they only require tipping over the edge of the slot and gravity with take care of the rest ?
I don't intend reducing the width of the slot at anytime of the season .
VM

 

[user 6228]

Under ground mice (Think Coal mines) live and breed in total darkness on a diet of axle grease mostly !
Be sure you aren't encouraging them
VM

I shall consider the choice of grease carefully , maybe spray on graphite

 

[oliver90owner]

Am I right in thinking that such a 'Dartington-type' entrance would not be 'reduced' against wasps?

Not necessarily. It would depend on the severity of the wasp problem and the strength of the colony. I would have had a late split over-powered by wasps, even with a reduced entrance (the simple way round it was to 're-unite' the split and close the rear entrance on the Dartington).

To be honest, the bees do not need the full width of entrance, ever, even on a Dartington - let alone a National. The only time it would be fully utilised would be issue of a swarm! The practice harps back to days of sunshine and solid floors, where the bees may be assisted in keeping the colony cool by giving them options for their air-con air currents.

If the entrance block were never needed to be removed, it would be fixed in position, would it not? An entrance block set on 'small size' would certainly cause congestion with my hives, with a good flow on. I don't want that.

RAB

 

[victor meldrew]

Dartington Type floors used in conjunction with my 14x12 hives are not fitted with entrance blocks the full width slot is some 15" wide . The omf negates any requirement for an entrance block in my opinion
VM

 

[Hebeegeebee]

"To be honest, the bees do not need the full width of entrance, ever, even on a Dartington - let alone a National. The only time it would be fully utilised would be issue of a swarm! The practice harps back to days of sunshine and solid floors, where the bees may be assisted in keeping the colony cool by giving them options for their air-con air currents.

If the entrance block were never needed to be removed, it would be fixed in position, would it not? An entrance block set on 'small size' would certainly cause congestion with my hives, with a good flow on. I don't want that".


RAB Which side of the fence are you?

 

[oliver90owner]

RAB Which side of the fence are you?

I am on the side of big enough. Which bit seems to make me 'on the fence'? I know they do not need a full width entrance for a Dartington and a National (BS version) will have more than adequate entrance/exit with the narrow opening, let alone the wider one (with the floor the other way up).

Whether I leave it full width is neither here not there. Most times in the summer months it makes absolutely no odds at all as all my stocks are on OMF, but the point remains that they don't need it. I have only reduced a couple of weaker colonies this last season (that includes to date, and only one at the present time).

One colony in a MB two tier 14 x 12 arrangement only have the normal nuc opening (less than half width of the nuc). That would, be enough in the summer, I would think, but it may appear crowded to some (an alighting board arrangement would likely assist them in those situations).

A quick check on a beehaus will reveal a less wide entry (300mm and 'Dartingtonish' in design). More than enough. However the typical National entrance block turned to the small opening is usually too small, without congestion, at peak times, IMO, for some of my colonies.

Not sure how you can be confused as to which side of the fence I am on unless you are reading 'don't need' as 'should not have'. To me they are entirely different phrases. Or perhaps you are muddled between entrance/exit requirements and ventilation requirements when on solid floors?

Mystified really. Perhaps you would care to explain your question, quoted at the top of this post?

RAB

 

[Headnavigator]

This weekend I'll be expanding the entrance rather than reducing it by taking out the blocks (assuming no lurking wasps) and putting on the mouseguards

Blocks out, mouseguards on, insulation into the roof this morning. They were very curious and poured out of the 'new' entrance, lots of activity but no stings or malice at all, and this afternoon there is more activity than I've seen for weeks - they are streaming in and out and away across the fields. Hope they don't think it's Spring arrived!

 

[For want of a better word]

An observation..


Stuck for entrance blockers in the orchard out apiary, and a lot of wasps about I reduced the entrance (std National without landing board) by stuffing it up with long grass!
Bees have arranged it to the size they want on all three hives to exactly 40mm
For some strange reason the wasps do not seem to be able or want to get near the entrance and the grass looks quite pretty too!

 

[Hebeegeebee]

"I am on the side of big enough. Which bit seems to make me 'on the fence'?"

Me too.

You just answered both ways.

My strongest, double brood colony happens to be on a floor which has a fixed 6" opening and they were fine and not even a queen cup all year. To have a 14" wide by 7/8" high opening seems rather unnecessary to me - especially with an OMF. (And no matchsticks!).

 

[oliver90owner]

To have a 14" wide by 7/8" high opening seems rather unnecessary to me - especially with an OMF.

Absolutely eggzackerly!

Unecessary but doesn't matter a hoot. As long as there is no wasp or robber problem it makes not a jot of difference how big the entrance might be. But if too small and solid floor, or wasp/robber problems, size may be an issue.

I can see nowhere where I answered both ways ie must be big and/or must be small.

See this one: http://www.flickr.com/photos/esneri/4442448315/in/photostream

Fairly large entry and overwintered well.

I am presuming your 6" wide entrance was 7/8" high. That is more than enough for any colony as an entrance. Now half that, or less, could be a bottleneck at times and if the hive had a solid floor and no other ventilation, it could get quite hot if positioned in the wrong place with an entrance less than half your's.

I offer no other ventilation for the hive than an open floor with a mesh to help keep out unwanted visitors (my crownboards are just that - boards). If I were to leave gaping holes at the top of the hive, the bees would want to close them up, or nearly close them, so I do what the bees prefer.

So, other than saying I answered both ways, you have failed to demonstrate where I did that. I don't think I did and don't think you can. If I did I will gladly re-phrase my reply. But, there we go, no evidence is a good pointer to no charge.