Pynes poly NUC

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beeboybee

Field Bee
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
752
Reaction score
15
Location
QUANTOCKS - SOMERSET
Hive Type
14x12
Number of Hives
6 >12 - 14x12 + Nucs
Hi all, currently painting the exterior of my NUC hive which has the EKE to make it a 14x12, next i will paint the feeder in the lower part with paint/sand.
i will paint the feeder part in the EKE as well.

Now the big question....... do people glue the body and EKE parts together to stop syrup leaking and what about the little Gap cut out of the wall?

this question is to those people who use Payn*es NUCS and not to start the whole argument about pro's/con's about painting Poly!!!!!!!!!!!

thanks all
 
Thought about that myself... then stuck to standard frame sizes as prefer double brood ( there is no problem with 14 x 12... just adds another variable and a lot more kit)

What about getting a large freezer bag the size of the feeder and fixing in with drawing pins?

Noticed on the one P*ymes polly nuc feeder I have painted the bees have started to strip off the paint!
 
what benefits have you had from double brood rather than single does it make the bees less swarmy becouse of more room?
 
what benefits have you had from double brood rather than single does it make the bees less swarmy becouse of more room?

no IMOLO swarmyness is a genetic thing... unless you really cram them in....

for me it is ease of inspection... and weight of boxes, otherwise I would be using Langs !

( in the short my upper body strength has been weakened by an auto immune disease )
 
can we keep to topic......... sorry its a pet hate with tis forum, whenever i do a search for a subject first i have to sift through miss categorised subjects.

its a shame as there is potentially a real wealth of info on here....... :sorry:
 
Hi beeboybee,
I have some of these nucs with the 14x12 eke. The feeder is only filled to the level of the cut out which the bees use for access. You don't fill it to the top of the eke. I don't glue the eke to the main body as I can then use it as a 14x12 or ordinary national. Hope this helps.
 
...
Now the big question....... do people glue the body and EKE parts together to stop syrup leaking and what about the little Gap cut out of the wall?
...

The "little gap" is the only entrance to the feeder once the coversheet is in place.

Pains now provide a small piece of QX to go in there and thus ensure the the queen cannot get into the feeder, whether to drown or to lay in wild comb built there. (I don't use the feeder at all, and block off "the little gap" with a trimmed piece of plastic sheet, actually marge tub.)

You can't fill syrup above "the little gap" so leakage at the eke join is a problem that should never arise.

I attach the eke with a simple wrap of duct tape round the join.

A more 'permanent' assembly would make for problems with cleaning - and not only cleaning out the integral feeder!
 
can we keep to topic......... sorry its a pet hate with tis forum, whenever i do a search for a subject first i have to sift through miss categorised subjects.

its a shame as there is potentially a real wealth of info on here....... :sorry:

If you only have 14 x 12 then hot glue them together.. the eke to the main body that is... glue a patch over the feeder gap in the body.
I have found that the HOT blue gun from Toolstation( £26 one) heats the glue enough to get a good joint.
 
never bothered painting any of mine they will last for years painted or not
 

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