Pros and cons of Manley super frames

[simonforeman]

I recently bought 50 Manley super frame 2nds in the sales by mistake as I thought I was buying SN4s... I have not used these before but presume they are no different to use than Hoffman's?
Anybody got any tips to get them drawn out any different than normal frames? Is there an issue mixing frames or are they best kept same frames same box?

Simple questions from a simple person....

 

[bingevader]

The only difference between them and the Hoffman is the lack of a gap at the sides of the frames.
Obviously, you don't need spacers.
We've mixed frames for a few years now, doesn't see to bother the bees.

 

[Erichalfbee]

SN4 side bars are 1 3/8 inches wide
Manley are a quarter of an inch wider at 1 5/8 inches so you get 10 in a super
I don’t like them as they get stuck together and I can’t easily check the odd frame in a box.

 

[Poly Hive]

Used them for many years now. Excellent for cut comb. Drawn out best in-between drawn combs. On saying that I give the bees a full super of them at a time.

PH

 

[Jimmy]

Pros:

Self spacing from the start, so no need to change spacers/castellations as the wax is drawn.
In a Swienty poly national super, 9 frames fit (in my experience, others differ).
In a wooden national super, 10 frames fit.

Cons:
More expensive.
Not all extractors are Manley compatible.
With propolis (and increasing humidity when on the hive, according to some), the snug fit of frames described above becomes a problem, especially with the Swienty super as it forces the dovetail joints apart.
Removing frames from the super can be a pain if they are stuck together with propolis.
The Abelo super is too small for 10 frames and too big for 9, so you'd have to mix and match SN* and Manleys.
Uncapping can be a pain if the cappings are not proud of the top and bottom bar, although this issue is not unique to Manleys.
Probably not a beginner issue, but uncapped SN* frames take up a lot less space than uncapped Manleys - this can be a bottleneck if you are uncapping one lot of frames whilst the extractor is running and run out of storage space.
Most beefarmers (but not all) do not use Manleys.

 

[Barbarian]

I use Manley frames fitted with Drone foundation in my supers.
Once drawn, I transfer the frames to a super fitted with 9's castellations. There is a gap between adjacent side bars.
At the Manley 10's spacing you can get the side bars stuck together.

In my 9 frame radial extractor, it can be fiddly loading with the wider side bars.

 

[Beefriendly]

Gave all my Manley frames away for many of the above mentioned reasons.
When I did use them I would mix and match with SN4's in a super. Full supers of Manley's were a nightmare when propolised/damp etc. You would often literally break a frame apart to free the others.
Can't say I noticed much difference between cut comb from Manley vs SN4. The Manleys looked a bit nicer....IF the bees drew all the corners out, but you still only got 4 combs to the frame as you do with SN4's.

 

[Beefriendly]

I use Manley frames fitted with Drone foundation in my supers.
.

Not sure if you realise it or not Barbarian but bees are very reluctant to fill drone sized cells in supers. When they do fill them they are the last cells to be filled.
Pictures below show what I mean. It's consistent. So much so that I now remove the foundation and replace from any super frames where the bees have drawn drone sized cells.

 

[masterBK]

smearing sidebar contact points with vaseline helps to stop them sticking together

 

[Poly Hive]

Interesting the comments on the sticking together (Manleys) as it's something I very rarely experience.

So. it has crossed my mind more than a few time and yet again today that the further south the bees are the more propolis seems to be an issue.

I remember on reading Field when he set about collecting propolis and got a pretty big amount that I had no chance of doing the same.

PH