Plywood Hives

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Not really and of course neither does polystyrene breath. The thickness is for stability and insulation from the elements.

My 14x12 brood boxes have 18mm sides and 9mm end panels. It doesn't appear to have had any great effect on the bees over winter, but if I had added extra insulation to the end panels, would the bees have benefited? I suspect the answer to that question is yes, but can't prove it.

So, if marine ply is waterproof and so doesn't breath, why not varnish it?

Perhaps others can put me right about any misconceptions I may have regarding plywood.
I use raw linseed oil on my plywood.
 
Are there any issues with marine plywood (or any other type for that matter) in terms of "breathability"?

Is there any danger of condensation on the inside during winter? It doesn't seem to be as porous as "real" wood.

I think breathability is a bit of a myth. Best cedar is not going to allow moisture through fast enough to make a big difference, and not at all when wet. With inadequate ventilation any hive will become damp. Ventilation is the answer, the ideal being OMF.
 
Not really and of course neither does polystyrene breath. The thickness is for stability and insulation from the elements.

My 14x12 brood boxes have 18mm sides and 9mm end panels. It doesn't appear to have had any great effect on the bees over winter, but if I had added extra insulation to the end panels, would the bees have benefited? I suspect the answer to that question is yes, but can't prove it.

So, if marine ply is waterproof and so doesn't breath, why not varnish it?

Perhaps others can put me right about any misconceptions I may have regarding plywood.
I use raw linseed oil on my plywood.

You can varnish/paint plywood hives but the outer skin is moving with the changing weather patterns so over time will blister or crack, ceder on the other hand is a different animal it contains a lot of natural oils that do affect varnish/paints so don't stick very well, that's why you use galv nails for construction if you use steel you get black stains, the word let the wood breath is to let it expand and contract with moisture content, it only expands in its width not length. :bigear:
John
 
Many thanks Rowbow. I have probably read that a number of times in the past, but perhaps it will stick with me slightly better this time.
 
I started with several plywood hives I painted them all with Ducksback fence paint and put four coats on them,in the second year the roof started to delaminate,I also did my back in trying to lift the things.I have now gone over to Red Cedar I have also painted these with Linseed oil,mainly to bring out the colour,but they will last years and they are probably 75% lighter.
 
I cover my ply roofs with felt any way and put some small holes (covered by plastic mesh) for ventilation. It seems to work. i just varnish the bottom bits of the roof that hang below the line of the felt.
 
I started with several plywood hives I painted them all with Ducksback fence paint and put four coats on them,in the second year the roof started to delaminate,I also did my back in trying to lift the things.I have now gone over to Red Cedar I have also painted these with Linseed oil,mainly to bring out the colour,but they will last years and they are probably 75% lighter.


I so agree with the common appraisal on weight. If your hives are going to be static then onward consider ply. If you are going to move them about occupied then give all prior consideration to the weight. If i had known beforehand what one of mine (14 x 12!) weighed empty, I would not have bothered to make 10?

You only have to look at the devices that exist to move them (wheel barrow ,
rickshaw/ two man lift etc to reali se it will be an issue. Even if you are a budding power lifter, just imagine that most "removal" operations are carried out accompanied by the odd thousand uncoperative bees - the potential for serious back injury should not be underestimated. I would bet that marine ply is the heaviest of the plys?

I migrated from cedar to ply but when i want more brood boxes , thxxrnes sale options are a viable alternative purely on weight. I would also consider the linseed coating next time

Regards

FB
 
Do you have better pest management with the cedar hive ? I know that mice and ants do not like cedar, as far as wood eating bugs i put pepper mace in my paint of the pine hives. I think the cedar sounds very interesting. I am very interested in your views on the cedar. I was all way's told pine is the only way to go but I'm not so sure.
 
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Its easy to make your own, just give them a protective covering of beefriendly paint.

They work fine. I use 9mm marine ply. Also keeps them light for movement.
 
I cover my ply roofs with felt any way and put some small holes (covered by plastic mesh) for ventilation. It seems to work. i just varnish the bottom bits of the roof that hang below the line of the felt.

:iagree:

I use 4mm to skim my TBH roofs, .. Quick coat of wax proofed paint and felt covered.. Lasted two years so far with no problems. Why make roofs heavy when lighter ones with felt last better with no maintenance.?
 
I have a couple of supers made from 1/2" dodgy quality exterior ply over 30 years ago, these are now ready for some new sides. These are ok weight wise, it is the later ones made from 18mm ply that weigh a ton. On the plus side they a good strong stable box with many years life left in them. They are now 20-25years old.
ian
 
... couple of supers made from 1/2" dodgy quality exterior ply over 30 years ago, ... They are now 20-25years old.

Apart from the discrepancy in the age (from twenty to over thirty) giving a life span range of > +50%, >-33% (depending on starting point), it would seem that the ply was not that 'dodgy', quality wise. From reports on the forum it would seem that ply hives from some suppliers of lower quality materials delaminate and seriously deteriorate after very little use.

RAB
 
... couple of supers made from 1/2" dodgy quality exterior ply over 30 years ago, ... They are now 20-25years old.

Apart from the discrepancy in the age (from twenty to over thirty) giving a life span range of > +50%, >-33% (depending on starting point), it would seem that the ply was not that 'dodgy', quality wise. From reports on the forum it would seem that ply hives from some suppliers of lower quality materials delaminate and seriously deteriorate after very little use.

RAB

I took it to mean the 1/2" ply ones were 30 years old and the 18mm were 20 - 25years old. One os us is interpreting what has been said wrongly.
 
You may well be right. Not clear whether the poster has changed subject from 1/2 inch to 18mm, or whether the subject is still 1/2 inch.
 
No delamination problems to speak of yet in any of the boxes. Just the bottom corners on older 1/2" rounding off & so not bee tight. They were made from ply offcuts that had been in a wood for a few years untreated. These were my first attempt so I did not want to make firewood out of new wood if I got it wrong.
The younger boxes made of new 18mm ply are in perfect condition.
 

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