Sealing plywood nuc sides with yacht varnish?

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Here’s a couple of 5 frame ply nucs made in 2008ish…..still going strong!
 

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I've got one around the same age, I recently had to change the roof as the bag of layers mash I used to cover it finally gave up.
 
My plywood nucs are 4 or 5 years old still in good nick .. the roofs are very deep which saves the ply boxes from the weather. I painted the roofs 3 times but i must admit they will need replacing in a couple of year
 
First off a decent hardwood WBP ply from a proper wood yard, once panels had been run up any exposed voids filled with waterproof pva. Edges dipped/soaked. Originally 2-3 coats of ducks back in green subsequently saddolin classic. I’d never use paint on anything wooden bee related just to much agro/prep for future works, stains/preservatives just require a brush off and reapply and don’t trap moisture.
 
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One advantage of WBC hives is that the boxes are protected from the elements by the lifts.
 
Only because the internal boxes are made of match wood😂

Indeed the boxes are a little lighter as they don't need to be so thick (and also 1 frame less compared to a National). For me, they are a little easier to work with.
 
One advantage of WBC hives is that the boxes are protected from the elements by the lifts.
Indeed, that would seem a better environment for a thin ply brood box as it would be less likely to delaminate.
If my clients want WBC hives I fill them with a nation brood box as you have the advantage of a large box and greater insulation in the thicker wood.
 
Hello, have you used a marine varnish for your beehive? If so, could you please let me know which product you used? I'm also planning to varnish my beehive, but I'm a bit lost. I recently stumbled upon a product online by chance, but before using it, I would like to make an informed decision to ensure I make the right choice.
Thank you in advance
 
planning to varnish my beehive
Save your labour and money, Juli.

Whichever wood you use it must breathe, and although at a slow rate (depending on the wood) internal moisture will permeate the wood to escape and your varnish will peel off.

If cedar, you need do nothing as it has natural anti-rot abilities. If you oil cedar with raw linseed or olive oil or somesuch it may look pretty, but after a year micro fungi will turn the box dark grey. Easy to wash off with hot washing soda, but why go down that road? (I did).

If your wood is pine or ply, then treat with preservative or something that soaks into the wood and not on it, in which case it will eventually peel and need re-painting.

In short: use cedar, don't bother.
 
Cut ply edges need any exposed voids filled with a waterproof pva then I’d use multiple coats of a stain/preservative
 
....and they'll still delaminate
To a degree… I’ve ply nucs nearly 20 years old that are still serviceable and will likely last few more more. Ply is perfectly usable if you pick a decent quality and treat it right. It is heavy and some will still de laminate however it’s certainly got plus points.
 
Just made a Nuc out of hardwood ply. Sealed and painted the out outside and edges.
Does the inside need any treatment or can it just be left alone ?
 
Just made a Nuc out of hardwood ply. Sealed and painted the out outside and edges.
Does the inside need any treatment or can it just be left alone ?
I’d coat the lot but if doing so you will need to leave for a couple of weeks to air if using a preservative.
 
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