OMF and mice

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beesknee

New Bee
Joined
Apr 23, 2011
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Location
north yorkshire
Hive Type
14x12
Number of Hives
16 + nucs
Hi every one and good morning,sun shining here (York area) this is the first year i have use OMF (after 30+ years on solid floors)with entrance bar in and OMF are mouse guards necessary? Many thanks
 
Yes a mouse can get in past your "entrance bar" if its open space is bigger than 2 bee space.
 
with entrance bar in and OMF are mouse guards necessary?

Why do you ask? Have you seen documented evidence that they are no longer necessary with OMFs?

As warm blooded animals, mice are probably less likely to build a nest right on the OMF, but that would not necessarily prevent them nesting further up, I would think.

Would I take the risk? No. Although not all my hives have had mouse guards every winter and I have yet to find a mouse, or mouse nest, in one of my hives. I daresay it will/could happen but has not happened yet.

I reckon a mouse in a poly hive would find it harder pressed, to secret itself from the cluster (because the bees are generally more active than in an uninsulated timber hive), but I am generally not inclined to find out.

A mouseguard is so cheap and easy to fit that it is really not worth the omission. (I use an old file handle (with steel ferrule attached) and a small circular neodymium magnet to secure mine with drawing pins)

Can't really see any advantage of an entrance block over the winter, though. Unless you are a cheapskate like me, and cut mouseguards into more, but of shorter length. I will never buy another full-width mouseguard attachment arrangement. Just a waste of money in my opinion. Mouseguards often live in the roof, secured by the drawing pins (usually fewer than used in the autumn!) during spring and summer. Saves hunting around for them and if I lose one, I have not lost them all!

I do find the entrance reducing battens need jamming in tightly (had some displaced in the past).

Might be two or three months before they are fixed on, so no rush yet.

Regards, RAB
 
I have mouse guards, however, I think most people probably fit them ineffectively (I may be wrong though)

Standard industry test to identify access points/issues with mice is the pencil test, If you can get a pencil through the hole then a mouse can get through too.

and before you go and get a pencil and mouse guard, I have already done it. Yep a pencil goes through.

So when I have used them ( I havent on all hives) I try and make sure that part of the hole is covered by the entrance block leaving just enough for bees to get out, but hopefully not let anything in.
 
mouse gaurds

with entrance bar in and OMF are mouse guards necessary?

Why do you ask? Have you seen documented evidence that they are no longer necessary with OMFs?

As warm blooded animals, mice are probably less likely to build a nest right on the OMF, but that would not necessarily prevent them nesting further up, I would think.

Would I take the risk? No. Although not all my hives have had mouse guards every winter and I have yet to find a mouse, or mouse nest, in one of my hives. I daresay it will/could happen but has not happened yet.

I reckon a mouse in a poly hive would find it harder pressed, to secret itself from the cluster (because the bees are generally more active than in an uninsulated timber hive), but I am generally not inclined to find out.

A mouseguard is so cheap and easy to fit that it is really not worth the omission. (I use an old file handle (with steel ferrule attached) and a small circular neodymium magnet to secure mine with drawing pins)

Can't really see any advantage of an entrance block over the winter, though. Unless you are a cheapskate like me, and cut mouseguards into more, but of shorter length. I will never buy another full-width mouseguard attachment arrangement. Just a waste of money in my opinion. Mouseguards often live in the roof, secured by the drawing pins (usually fewer than used in the autumn!) during spring and summer. Saves hunting around for them and if I lose one, I have not lost them all!

I do find the entrance reducing battens need jamming in tightly (had some displaced in the past).

Might be two or three months before they are fixed on, so no rush yet.

Regards, RAB

Hi RAB thanks for the reply,yes i have seen somewhere that m/gaurd were not required with OMF, and yes i cut up my mouse gaurds to cut down expence (I am from yorkshire)
 
I have read that ventilation is important in winter and therefore wasp guard (reduced entrance) should be taken off and replaced with a full width mouseguard.

Or does this depend on whether it is on an OMF or solid floor?
 
Mouseguards are put on in winter to stop mice getting into the hive....obviously:)
It won't make any difference to ventilation if you have an open floor.
Mice will get into an ordinary reduced entrance. It's extraordinary how they can compress their heads to squeeze through the tiniest gap.
I use Ron Brown's improved entrance block which has frame pins put in along the entrance at bee space intervals. Keeps the mice out and lets the bees in and out easily......especially when bringing pollen into the hive.
Hope this helps.

PS I should add that the entrance block is a wooden one for a wooden hive.
What does anybody use on a poly, particularly on a MB?
 
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Piece of wood? Piece of plastic? Does it really matter as long as it does the job?

I block the entrances to my Polynucs with a wedge shaped piece of EPS, covered in duct tape and with a couple large screws inserted to be ablre to remove it easily.

For winter a piece of rigid plastic sheet cut and inserted in the grooves provided to leave just a bee space at the bottom of the entrance, secured with a couple of fixings if deemed necessary.

Regards, RAB
 
Yes, looking at the supplied entrance reducer if you turn it over and slide it completely to one side it will give one bee space.
 
Mouseguards are put on in winter to stop mice getting into the hive....obviously:)
It won't make any difference to ventilation if you have an open floor.
Mice will get into an ordinary reduced entrance. It's extraordinary how they can compress their heads to squeeze through the tiniest gap.
I use Ron Brown's improved entrance block which has frame pins put in along the entrance at bee space intervals. Keeps the mice out and lets the bees in and out easily......especially when bringing pollen into the hive.
Hope this helps.

PS I should add that the entrance block is a wooden one for a wooden hive.
What does anybody use on a poly, particularly on a MB?

I'm not questioning whether or not to put a mouse-guard on - I always do. The question was about reduced entrance or full width.

So I'm guessing the answer then regarding ventilation is yes, it depends on which type of floor.

JB
 

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