New warre beekeeper and harvesting question

[Viv]

Hi, im Viv, i'm a relatively new beekeeper(few years) and currently have 4 Warre hives with bees.
I'm now in process of doing the end of season harvest but am currently a bit unsure what to do. I have an extremely well populated hive with 5 boxes, 3 of which seem to be full of honey. Ive harvested the top box (which i had supered on top a couple of months earlier) - no problem. Now planning to take the second box, but when i looked at the hive yesterday (i have inspection windows at back) all boxes are so full of bees, im not sure if i should be removing another box at this stage. Suggestions or advice welcome.

 

[fian]

Ask:
How many boxes do the other 3 hives have?
Management Warre maintains that wintering is done with 2 boxes. Maybe I should wait until the population starts to shrink. I have also read that some wait until the following year to harvest.
An option would be to place an empty box in the weakest hive and on top of it one of those full supers (with newspaper to harmonize the smells). Once the bees are incorporated into the lower space you will be able to harvest the super without problems.
Repeat the process until there are no supers left to harvest, the final configuration may be 3 boxes while the population is not reduced.

 

[pargyle]

Hi, im Viv, i'm a relatively new beekeeper(few years) and currently have 4 Warre hives with bees.
I'm now in process of doing the end of season harvest but am currently a bit unsure what to do. I have an extremely well populated hive with 5 boxes, 3 of which seem to be full of honey. Ive harvested the top box (which i had supered on top a couple of months earlier) - no problem. Now planning to take the second box, but when i looked at the hive yesterday (i have inspection windows at back) all boxes are so full of bees, im not sure if i should be removing another box at this stage. Suggestions or advice welcome.

If you want to clear the bees from the top boxes you need to make a clearer board ... have a look at this thread ...

https://beekeepingforum.co.uk/threads/clearing-bees-from-supers.57407/

Although this is mainly about frames hives it will work for your Warres ... you will have to make one as I don't think you can buy one that is Warre sized.

 

[ericbeaumont]

all boxes are so full of bees

It is likely that the bottom box is relatively unpopulated but with plenty of pollen, and the bees up top because it's warmest. Bees are better condensed for winter, so as long as you leave them 20kg they will do well in two boxes.

Suggest you make a clearer board and put it under the top box for 24-48 hours. This short video is straightforward:



The plastic escapes can be had from any supplier and may be cut in half and fitted over two holes in opposing corners of the board, doubling the clearer effect, as shown in these photos by JBM.

 

[Viv]

If you want to clear the bees from the top boxes you need to make a clearer board ... have a look at this thread ...

https://beekeepingforum.co.uk/threads/clearing-bees-from-supers.57407/

Although this is mainly about frames hives it will work for your Warres ... you will have to make one as I don't think you can buy one that is Warre sized.

Thanks so much for your replies and suggestions. I do use a Warre size clearer board, which worked v well for the top box. However all boxes (including the bottom one) are currently so full of bees that i was a bit worried it there wd be space for them all in 3 boxes. Or if its ok to wait a few more weeks, till the population reduces, before harvesting?

 

[Viv]

Thanks so much for your replies and suggestions. I do use a Warre size clearer board, which worked v well for the top box. However all boxes (including the bottom one) are currently so full of bees that i was a bit worried it there wd be space for them all in 3 boxes. Or if its ok to wait a few more weeks, till the population reduces, before harvesting?

 

[ericbeaumont]

ok to wait a few more weeks, till the population reduces, before harvesting

No, cram them in now; might be chucking down rain all October. Do you treat for varroa?

 

[Viv]

No, cram them in now; might be chucking down rain all October. Do you treat for varroa?

No, the hive in question is totally varroa free

 

[rolande]

I'd be concerned about that, those are the hives which often die from farmers and gardeners misusing pesticides

 

[fian]

No, the hive in question is totally varroa free

and how do you know?

 

[ericbeaumont]

totally varroa free

The smiley after the statement tells me that you're being ironic, Viv. How well do your colonies survive the lack of varroa treatment?

 

[Erichalfbee]

The smiley after the statement tells me that you're being ironic, Viv. How well do your colonies survive the lack of varroa treatment?

I should imagine they leave lots of honey behind?

 

[Viv]

Do you want to buy a bridge? I'll throw in a bag of magic beans as a sweetener

Sorry, not sure what that is? Not to worry, i think I'll just go ahead with clearer board. Thanks

 

[Viv]

The smiley after the statement tells me that you're being ironic, Viv. How well do your colonies survive the lack of varroa treatment?

Woah, no, not ironic! I check the bottom board regularly. I have 4 hives, but all are located at least 50 or 100 yards apart to deter drift. Only 1 colony has varroa. Ive installed a bee gym in that hive and am seeing how well it works. I know this is a contentious issue for some and have no wish to engage in that way on a forum such as this

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Using an inspection board to measure varroa infestation is about as reliable as holding up your finger in your living room to see if a hurricane is on the way

 

[BaconWizard]

Personally, I wait until the spring flow has begun to harvest the previous year's honey.
Reasons are: Leaves plenty of honey for the winter (which acts as thermal mass as well as food) and whatever remains in Spring is genuine surplus.
But mainly it is to avoid robbing behaviour when taking it in the Autumn; especially since one has to cut the comb itself (and thus spill honey) to collect.

 

[ericbeaumont]

no wish to engage in that way on a forum such as this

If it works - and plenty of non-treaters make it work - then don't let those laughing emojis get to you, but do let us know how it pans out long-term.

 

[fian]

Woah, no, not ironic! I check the bottom board regularly. I have 4 hives, but all are located at least 50 or 100 yards apart to deter drift. Only 1 colony has varroa. Ive installed a bee gym in that hive and am seeing how well it works. I know this is a contentious issue for some and have no wish to engage in that way on a forum such as this

A question:
Of the times that you have checked the hives, have you observed bees with deformed wings? I ask this because DWV is a virus that spreads through varroa as a vector.
Having observed bees with deformed wings means that the varroa infestation is high and must be treated quickly to avoid winter death.

 

[pargyle]

Play nicely people, clearly the OP is a relative newcomer to the craft, we can still be beginners even with several years under our belts - so, it's in the Beginners Section now. Constructive advice will no doubt be welcomed by the OP.

 

[oxnatbees]

I'd be concerned about that, those are the hives which often die from farmers and gardeners misusing pesticides

I know lots of Warre users. Have never heard this before. What do you base this on?

The only hives I know of which are more susceptible to pesticides are those with mesh floors; in parts of America, the local council sends lorries round spraying the streets with insecticides to kill mosquitoes. Hive users there report the clouds of spray can kill hives in their BACK yards - not next to the road - but comment that Langstroths with solid floors survive.

So, what is your evidence, anecdotal or otherwise? You make strong claims, you must have some.