I have an entrance block on at present which is around 60mm wide. I have purchased a circular style mouseguard from Thornes and wondering ? do I remove the entrance block completely and put the mouseguard on. I was just concerned that as I have an OMF the extra holes in the mouseguard may make the hive more colder for the bees ? Or am I just worrying unduly.
mouseguard question
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Entrance block out.
How many holes are in the mouse guard and how many holes are in your omf?
Poly Hive
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Devon.
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Hi Dani, quick newbie question whilst on this topic, is there a reason why we need to remove the entrance block when fitting the mouseguard?Entrance block out.
How many holes are in the mouse guard and how many holes are in your omf?
As I have the same thoughts as malgreen, won't it create a bigger opening unnessarily in depths of winter instead of keeping the entrance small?
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For ease of passage and also to try to prevent build up of dead bees on floor.
Most have OMFs. A little extra opening at the entrance will make no difference, unless as already pointed out, there are still wasps about the hives
Most have OMFs. A little extra opening at the entrance will make no difference, unless as already pointed out, there are still wasps about the hives
Mouseguard
Well am glad to say we could have a dry (ish) day here in Devon so will go and place mouseguard on. I did notice the mouseguard was a little rough so used a small fine round file to take off any roughness. Re wasps have had no problem mine has been other robbing bees from a neighbours hive resulting in the eventual loss of one of my hives.
Well am glad to say we could have a dry (ish) day here in Devon so will go and place mouseguard on. I did notice the mouseguard was a little rough so used a small fine round file to take off any roughness. Re wasps have had no problem mine has been other robbing bees from a neighbours hive resulting in the eventual loss of one of my hives.
mouseguard
So I fitted the mouseguard ok and ended up doing a bit of a compromise by removing my smaller entrance block and replacing with the standard one that came with the hive. This leaves around a dozen or so holes across the front to allow access. The bees continued to enter the hive and were able to carry the pollen in without any problems. But as I said I would recommend filing the holes nice and smooth. I will watch for and debris build up if the case arose.
So I fitted the mouseguard ok and ended up doing a bit of a compromise by removing my smaller entrance block and replacing with the standard one that came with the hive. This leaves around a dozen or so holes across the front to allow access. The bees continued to enter the hive and were able to carry the pollen in without any problems. But as I said I would recommend filing the holes nice and smooth. I will watch for and debris build up if the case arose.
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It bugs me with reading all this Mouse guard palava..if folk read and listen the mouse guards become a thing of the past... but hey ho crack on regardless..
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Why don’t you post instructions and pictures of your tunnel entrances? Meanwhile some beginners will have to make do with what they have this autumn. It might be a project for them over winter.
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I would love to Dani but i am sick of being picked to bits from another member..i will carry on with Pm's that is a safer option..
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Malgreen, it’s not the width of the entrance that matters; it’s the height. If the opening slot is 6mm high (5/16” or a pencil thickness) mice are unlikely to get in. Your entrance block is probably ok. Most entrances to Poly hives comply with this (eg Swienty, Abelo).
A round hole should have a diameter of no more than 3/8” (9.5mm). The reason for these numbers is that a mouse head is wider than it is high.
(Ted Hooper, Guide to Bees and Honey)
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Dispel all those worries by setting yourself a little winter project - build an Underfloor entrance OMF floor - entrance is left open the whole width of the hive summer and winter, it is sheltered from the elements, meeces can't get in and wasps hate them - they're also easy to build.
If you want, PM me and I can email you the plans and building instructions
If memory serves, Millet has already shared his tunnel entrance design and supported it with various photographs and measurements in various posts. I recall their being a savage reaction to his idea.
Yet both Millets tunnel entrance idea and JBM's underfloor entrance plans offer excellent protection against both mice and wasps. They both utilise a less than 9mm crawl gap which is either the hive width or a width you decide. Personally I think the tunnel entrance has one advantage over the underfloor and that is the notion that there will/can be multiple ranks of bees concentrated in a smaller more easily defended area.
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Which is fine and dandy until there's a flow on, bees need extra air circulation for honey ripening or undertaker bees need to clear out the dead - it is however a great retro fit when a hive is under relentless attack from wasps.
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Given Millet's tunnel entrance only goes back about 5 inches or so there is still plenty of free air to circulate and no need to use unless plagued by wasps.
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Most of mine are underfloor even the nucs. Stan makes an entrance block for each which slides into the porch. I had to use them in the nuc floors this summer when wasps were about. Just didn’t want to take the chance.
I use a block like that if a nuc looks under threat from robbing. You needn't have worried about wasps, even my small nucs had no trouble with wasps.
They hang around the apiary, desperately waiting for a quick chance when you open the hives, once all is closed up they go back to hanging around feeling sorry for themselves.
I'm currently making a new batch of UFE floors that feature a little landing board, my hives are static so the extra bit of wood is not a problem.
