mould/mildew

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janandmaxbee

New Bee
Joined
Dec 29, 2010
Messages
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Location
u.k.
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Hi. very warm here today, so opened the hives to have a look. In my second hive, created last year there were plenty of bees and lots of activity BUT two of the frames near the front of the hive were covered in a whitish/light grey mould. Any idea what this could be, and waht I should be doing. (have removed the two frames) cant find any pictures that are close to what I have. Thanks. J
 
Hi. very warm here today, so opened the hives to have a look. In my second hive, created last year there were plenty of bees and lots of activity BUT two of the frames near the front of the hive were covered in a whitish/light grey mould. Any idea what this could be, and waht I should be doing. (have removed the two frames) cant find any pictures that are close to what I have. Thanks. J

J&M

need a bit more information

were the mouldy frames of the North, east ,south or west of the hive
relation of frames to entrance
OMF or solid floor ( varroa board in or out)
Any insulation on crown board
what ventalation
ply or cedar hive
 
I suspect you will find that they are pollen frames.

PH
 
Hi.. The hive faces east and the frames were two in from the entrance. varroa board in. No insulation on the crown board. Regarding ventilation - Matchsticks inserted in the four corners to allow a little air to circulate. Cedar hive. The other hive, exactly the same position etc seems fine. Thanks.
 
could be one of several things. Pollen attracts damp and will go mouldy, or it could be frames of feed that never got enough water evaporated off in Autumn. Sometimes this can sit in uncapped cells and will go mouldy.
You did the right thing taking them out, just keep an eye on replacement frames to make sure that it is not damp seeping in somewhere through the roof and causing a similar problem OK:boxing_smiley:
 
You are quite right it will be mould. The bes may have cleaned them up as the temperature increases, but they may not use the pollen if particularly damp and moulded.

Insufficient ventilation is the almost for sure the cause here. You have kept the OMF closed completely and used the 'famous'(or infamous) matchstick method to provide ventilation. A very poor choice.

Open, or part open, mesh floor and no top ventilation is sooo much better. Allied to top insulation to reduce thermal losses and condensation is the way to go. You may well find, if you had the porter bee escapes uncovered last year, that the roof ventilation has been completely (or nearly so) propolised.

This should indicate to you, as a beekeeper, that the bees abhor top ventilation!

With solid floors ventilation is paramount and a fine balance between damp or dry and warm or cold.

None of my hives have any top ventilation over the winter - there is not any in a tree nest, after all. I insulate the top - a tree nest usually has considerably more than 6mm cover over the nest. The moisture in a tree nest will be absorbed by the tree more so than in a man-made wooden box, so ventilation is required in the man-made box to avoid excess moisture. There is often a large free volume under the nest in a tree compared to a man made box. Bees naturally live in trees. It is much better to treat the bees similar to a natural nest than propping up their roof to leave it draughty for the whole winter.

They may be short of protein for spring build-up, but apart from that removal may not be too serious. As long as they are able to source sufficient protein they will be OK and build up normally.

Think about if you had left the frames cold way - there could have been pollen on more frames at the front of the hive. Those of mine which I have given a quick check recently are all dry. I expect the same in all of them.

RAB
 
You are quite right it will be mould. The bes may have cleaned them up as the temperature increases, but they may not use the pollen if particularly damp and moulded.

Insufficient ventilation is the almost for sure the cause here. You have kept the OMF closed completely and used the 'famous'(or infamous) matchstick method to provide ventilation. A very poor choice.

Open, or part open, mesh floor and no top ventilation is sooo much better. Allied to top insulation to reduce thermal losses and condensation is the way to go. You may well find, if you had the porter bee escapes uncovered last year, that the roof ventilation has been completely (or nearly so) propolised.

This should indicate to you, as a beekeeper, that the bees abhor top ventilation!

With solid floors ventilation is paramount and a fine balance between damp or dry and warm or cold.

None of my hives have any top ventilation over the winter - there is not any in a tree nest, after all. I insulate the top - a tree nest usually has considerably more than 6mm cover over the nest. The moisture in a tree nest will be absorbed by the tree more so than in a man-made wooden box, so ventilation is required in the man-made box to avoid excess moisture. There is often a large free volume under the nest in a tree compared to a man made box. Bees naturally live in trees. It is much better to treat the bees similar to a natural nest than propping up their roof to leave it draughty for the whole winter.

They may be short of protein for spring build-up, but apart from that removal may not be too serious. As long as they are able to source sufficient protein they will be OK and build up normally.

Think about if you had left the frames cold way - there could have been pollen on more frames at the front of the hive. Those of mine which I have given a quick check recently are all dry. I expect the same in all of them.

RAB

I agree with RAB,
 
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