As others have said, use of apple juice and honey fermented make cyser, fruit and honey makes melomel. Mead is just fermented honey.
First requirement is good sterilised equipment.
Second you need to decide if you will sterilise your must before the addition of your chosen yeast, and then if you will sterilise using heat(some argue that changes the flavours and aromas of the honey too much,) or chemically by addition of campden tablet. This would mean you will have to leave the honey water mix for 24-48 hours before adding your activated yeast to the must so the the Sulphur dioxide has time to do its work and then disipate. Or if you want to risk fermenting without sterilisation of the must and risk wild yeast ruining your mead.
Next question is how sweet do you want the finished mead to be. The following is for a dry mead. More honey needed for a sweet mead and it has to be fed into the must in stages as the Specific gravity drops down to a level of 1.005 add 1/2 lb of honey to must, keep doing that until yeast stops being able to ferment the sugar out as the acolhol level stops the yeast from working. this feeding methed is used to ensure the yeast can cope with the level of sugar at anyone time present in the must.
3lbs of honey or alternatively the washings of your cappings and extraction equipment and adjust the specific gravity to around the 1.1 mark but adding water or honey as required. I use washings and for that reason feel its advisable to sterilise the must and personally use the campden tab method.
Put your must in a sterilised bucket with 1 crushed campden tab/gal of must. Add yeast nutrient, 1 crushed vit b tablet, your choice of acid (juice from 1 lemon or citric/tartric/malic acid or a mix of then about 1.5tps in total) 1/4 tps of wine tanin or tbs of cold tea, cover with clean teatowel and leave 24/48 hours in cool dark room. During which time get your yeast starter going, choose your yeast, either a good general purpose wine yeast for a dry mead or if you want a sweeter mead then pick a yeast culture from your home brew supplier that can take higher alcohol and sugar levels. Put 5 fl oz of luke warm water into a sterilised bottle and add a teaspoon of sugar 1/4 tps of marmite and spinkle your dried yeast onto the liquid and stopper up the bottle with cotton wool so that dust does not go in but it can breath and then put into a warm cupboard to get the yeast activated.
After the 24/48 hours stir your must vigourously the incorporate as much oxygen as possible and expel as much sulphur dioxide that remains in the must from the campden tablet as possible. Pitch your yeast starter into the must. Transfer must to sterilised demijohn leaving 3 or 4 inch gap at top. Seal with airlock. Place in cool dark place eg cellar. Check a couple of days later to ensure fermentation is active and once the first vigorous fermentation subsides top up the demijohn to 1/2 inch from bottom of airlock with water. Ferment out til airlock stops showing signs that CO2 is being given off. At this stage check your Specific gravity. If its 1.00 or below you have fermented out all the sugar. Rack off the lees into another sterilised demijohn and top up again with water. Leave in cool dark room to clear. This can take months or can occur quite quickly depends on your yeast. Bottle when clear and leave to mature 12 months or more if you have the patience.
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