Leaking Honey Gate valve

[Minxpinx]

I've just extracted our first super this year, unfortunately the valve on my settling tank leaks. We have tried various combinations of tightening/loosening the screws which didn't help. I've decided to try and get a refund as it is completely useless.

The one I have is an all plastic one.

Please can anyone recommend a decent replacement? I'd be interested in finding one that has the valve as low on the tank as possible to minimise the amount of tipping and wedging needed. Also would consider the extra cost of stainless steel.

Thank you

 

[Gilberdyke John]

I've just extracted our first super this year, unfortunately the valve on my settling tank leaks. We have tried various combinations of tightening/loosening the screws which didn't help. I've decided to try and get a refund as it is completely useless.

Please can anyone recommend a decent replacement? I'd be interested in finding one that has the valve as low on the tank as possible to minimise the amount of tipping and wedging needed.

Thank you

Is it a metal or plastic valve and is the rubber o ring in place? Overtightening will deform the flap and is probably responsible for more leaks than undertightening

 

[Minxpinx]

It is plastic. The o ring looked fine and placed correctly.

 

[ratcatcher]

if the O ring has been mis shaped, drop it into hot water, should put it back to normal, or remove and put in back to front

 

[Gilberdyke John]

It is plastic. The o ring looked fine and placed correctly.

In which case I would check the flap plate is flat against the o ring. Most of the problems I have seen follow on from deformation either of the flap or the lugs which hold the bolts. I have considered placing a metal support rail in front of the flap but so far gentle tightening just enough to seal has been adequate..

 

[Minxpinx]

In which case I would check the flap plate is flat against the o ring. Most of the problems I have seen follow on from deformation either of the flap or the lugs which hold the bolts. I have considered placing a metal support rail in front of the flap but so far gentle tightening just enough to seal has been adequate..

The thing is, it was brand new and the firm I bought it from claim to test them all for leaks before sending them out. I fiddled about with it for ages and nothing seemed to help. What I'm really after is some recommendations of where to get a new one from.

 

[beebopalula]

In which case I would check the flap plate is flat against the o ring. Most of the problems I have seen follow on from deformation either of the flap or the lugs which hold the bolts. I have considered placing a metal support rail in front of the flap but so far gentle tightening just enough to seal has been adequate..

Agree with that. Often people have the hinge bolt too tight so the 'O' ring is deformed. The front plate needs to meet the valve evenly.

 

[Terry G]

I have a plastic one from Thornes that I have used for two seasons now, without any leakage at all.

 

[alldigging]

Post a picky of it.

You have got the fat side of the moving bit the right way round?

 

[itma]

... Often people have the hinge bolt too tight so the 'O' ring is deformed. The front plate needs to meet the valve evenly.

The bolts don't have to be (shouldn't be) particularly tight.
Just evenly 'snug' at the hinge and lock, so that the O-ring can sit flat against the 'plate', even slide over it - without snagging.

 

[Minxpinx]

Thanks everyone for their help. I've sent back the whole thing after speaking to the company who sold it.

I'm now looking to buy something else - any recommendations?

 

[REDWOOD]

I replaced the O rings on two valves this year because I stored them all winter with the nuts tightened which permanently flattened them.

 

[Norton Caff]

I had a cheap honey bucket and the valve leaked. The fastening bolt has a washer and wing-nut and I had put the washer on the tank side of the gate rather than against the wing-nut. Moving the washer solved the problem straight away but it took me a while to work out. The company from whom I bought were unhelpful and I nearly sent it back - I didn't want the inconvenience and managed to sort it myself!

 

[Headnavigator]

Replace your O rings every year - it is simply not worth losing honey over. It's a normal part of maintenance routine for almost anything that relies on an O ring for a seal.

 

[BeeJayBee]

Is there anywhere other than Thornes for O Rings?

 

[REDWOOD]

Easy enough to make your own if you have access to an O ring kit, I made a few this year. You can just buy the cord, super glue and a sharp blade
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/1310...f11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0

 

[BeeJayBee]

Brilliant! Thanks

 

[REDWOOD]

3.14159 x diameter - 5 mm will give you the length

 

[oliver90owner]

Bearing companies stock O-rings. Hydraulic, pneumatic and agricultural repair shops, too. Probably available from the internet suppliers. Trouble is the enormous ranges of diameter, material and thickness.

None of mine have been changed since new. They are not particularly a wearing item and modern food-grade materials don't degrade in a hurry.

Not made many over the years, and none in any stress situation. Just make sure you have the correct grade of glue!

 

[itma]

Easy enough to make your own if you have access to an O ring kit, I made a few this year. You can just buy the cord, super glue and a sharp blade
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/1310...f11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0

Are all O-rings "food grade"?