Langstroth info needed please

[wightbees]

Hi.

Looking at the plans i have for the langstroth :

1 , what would be the better to use ,the 5 3/4 or the 9 9/16 inch deep
as i want all my boxes the same size.

2, are the lugs on the frames 7/16 in lenght ,if not can someone tell me the
right lenght please.

3, how many at most would a nuc need in it's first yr (boxes)
of the 5 3/4 or the 9 9/16 inch deep

4, what would be the min thickness of the wood used or ply (WBP).

5, what gage mesh is best for the floor, is the one size only or is there a range.

6, does anyone use the canadian porter be escape?

7, I am thinking of adding a top bee entrance is this of much use or a waste of time?


Thanks for any info

 

[MuswellMetro]

Hi.

Looking at the plans i have for the langstroth :

1 , what would be the better to use ,the 5 3/4 or the 9 9/16 inch deep
as i want all my boxes the same size.

2, are the lugs on the frames 7/16 in lenght ,if not can someone tell me the
right lenght please.

3, how many at most would a nuc need in it's first yr (boxes)
of the 5 3/4 or the 9 9/16 inch deep

4, what would be the min thickness of the wood used or ply (WBP).

5, what gage mesh is best for the floor, is the one size only or is there a range.

6, does anyone use the canadian porter be escape?

7, I am thinking of adding a top bee entrance is this of much use or a waste of time?


Thanks for any info

5 3/4 is too small for 50000+ bees, a larger colony could require three as a brood box, so it the larger size you need, 9 3/4 frames wiegh 5-6 lbs full of honey so a 9 3/4 x 10 frames weights 60+ lbs...how is your back?

first year brood box plus two super on a national would do, problalbey the same on a langsstroth,so two, brood plus deep super if single size boxes

rest wait for the forum. i have never biult a langstroth though i biult a national from side of 12mm+6mm ply and bars of 12mm+12mm to create the rebate ..so no rebating just straight cuts and glue

you may have to do a lash up of bsNUC frames onto langstroth top bars to get the bees into the langstroth or a shook swarm if you go for 5 3/4

 

[wightbees]

Hi Muswellmetro

I have the same idea as you with the ply .Been up B&Q to take a few messurments lol.
Yes i was going to cable tie a nat frame onto the topbar of a lang ,as they most likely come on Nat frames.

 

[RoofTops]

If you want to have all frames the same size but don't want the weight of full depth frames go for Medium or 3/4 Langstroth. The frames for these are 6.25" deep and give about the same area as a National brood frame. In the UK this size is known as Dadant Shallow and I am converting some of my colonies over to them this year having tried it on one last year. Two brood boxes, which is what you will need, will give the same volume as a Jumbo Langstroth which is big enough for most people but without the big frames and heavy brood box plus interchangeability of frames with the supers.

It is a very good method for making increase if you want to build up your stocks as you just split the two boxes and add a new queen to the one without.

If you want to save even more weight reduce the size of the boxes so they take 8 frames not 10 but this means you will need special queen excluders etc.

 

[wightbees]

Hi rooftops.
I have the plans for the MD it messures 6 inch 5/8 Deep then taken into account
5/8 deep for the rebate. is this right ?
Apart from the change in depth from 9 9/16 to 6 5/8 inch i could build the plans to
the langstroth spec,, i think.

 

[MuswellMetro]

Hi Muswellmetro

I have the same idea as you with the ply .Been up B&Q to take a few messurments lol.
Yes i was going to cable tie a nat frame onto the topbar of a lang ,as they most likely come on Nat frames.

if you have a "biulder base" on the IOW their exterier ply is better, found the B&Q stuff warps when cut with a table saw

 

[RoofTops]

WB, the MD frames are 6.25" deep so if your hive body is 6.625" deep that leaves a bee space of 0.375" (or 3/8ths") - which is fine.

 

[wightbees]

Whats the name of the ply you got muswellmetro ?
I was looking WBP 12 ml

 

[wightbees]

Thanks rooftops , i will go with that then, MD

 

[BKF Admin]

Most box's are 18mm Wightbees not 12mm.

 

[learner]

Take a look at the osb rose hive, Yeah anyone can shoot me down if they like but it is worth a look if you want a one size box option, I have emailed the designer of this system, talk to him and he will be more than willing to help. Research will be key if you decide to go down the one size box option
OK I have no experience, no bees, and some may say no idea what I am talking about but, research research research,before you decide. I looked carefully at this system but will be going down a different route "Dartington" simply because research tells me it suits my skill level (none) easy to use, easier swarm control and I think many options on style of management.
Contemplating topbar brood, national supers. natural for the bees to build the cell size they want in the colony and easy extraction of honey this system may or may not work but I am researching it? So look around for ages dig out all the options before you decide.

 

[MuswellMetro]

r brood, national supers. natural for the bees to build the cell size they want in the colony and easy extraction of honey this system may or may not work but I am researching it? So look around for ages dig out all the options before you decide.

try wired brood frames with starter strips, at 32mm spacing this allows the bees to biuld there own brood and they incorporate the wires into the brood nest

super/one size box, you can either use foundation or again wired frames withstarter strips at 41mm+ spacing

 

[wightbees]

Thanks Leanrer
But i have changed my mind to many times lol and i have now nearly completed
the drawings to the plans i have got off the net, which where all in inches convert to mm.
I am going to stick with the MD/ 3/4 langstroth frames but use the slightly smaller langstroth boxes but to MD depth ,of which i believe means less frames.

Admin i had a plan for the 12mm ply.

That was in the summer months leave as is but i was sort of coming up with a idea(think of the front of a national) where as i could slot poly into the gap between the locking bars to help keep it warmer.
Then remove them the following yr. might work might not but going to try it.
Also the 12mm according to my plans is the right width rebate (nearly 7/16)

anyone ideas on Q 2 5 6 7

 

[learner]

I know the feeling about changing your mind a lot I have been going a bit willy nilly , I also now have made my choice and the cheque for the plans has gone to Robin, I am glad you have made your choice all the best with it keep me or everyone posted I would like to know your progress.

 

[learner]

try wired brood frames with starter strips, at 32mm spacing this allows the bees to biuld there own brood and they incorporate the wires into the brood nest

super/one size box, you can either use foundation or again wired frames withstarter strips at 41mm+ spacing

MuswellMetro cheers I have copied that and pasted it into my general folder for condsideration I may well start a seperate thread asking for more info on this subject, I wont take up space on this thread its not fair, however many thanks and maybe you could elaborate on another thread? Or pm me.

 

[wightbees]

I wouldn't mind more info on this Muswellmetro. so feel free to carry on
I might take a pic or two once they are done . Learner