Keeping a hive warm

[lorrick]

Hello All, I have split a hive yesterday and all seems to be going well. But as the weather is looking to get bad again, I am assuming that as I have decreased the number of bees in each hive, there is less of them to keep the hive warm they might suffer from the cold more,. I have one colony in a Brood box and the other is in a brood box with a super on top as they have made queen cells in the honey super and I have not seen a queen so I am waiting till that one sorts itself out then putting it down to a Brood box only, unless that is wrong ? , Is there a standard thing that is done to keep them warm or do I just let them get on with it. Both hives are out of the wind.
Thanks
Richard

 

[VEG]

leave them to it and try not to worry so much

 

[oliver90owner]

Most of the heat lost goes through that flimsy crownboard. Adding insulation immediately above is not a bad idea. Mine stays on all year round - warm in winter, cool in summer.

Some, of course believe that no insulation at all times is good enough.

 

[psafloyd]

leave them to it and try not to worry so much

And don't open them every five minutes as the heat they've built up since the last time you inspected.

 

[madasafish]

Most of the heat lost goes through that flimsy crownboard. Adding insulation immediately above is not a bad idea. Mine stays on all year round - warm in winter, cool in summer.

+1

 

[itma]

Most of the heat lost goes through that flimsy crownboard. Adding insulation immediately above is not a bad idea. Mine stays on all year round - warm in winter, cool in summer.

I'd also note that crownboards don't need holes.
Holes let the warmth out if you don't close them off.

Feeder boards and clearer boards have holes, and so don't make good crownboards.
The compromise all-in-one board is a poor compromise.

 

[Moggett]

Most of the heat lost goes through that flimsy crownboard. Adding insulation immediately above is not a bad idea. Mine stays on all year round - warm in winter, cool in summer.

Some, of course believe that no insulation at all times is good enough.

+2

I use carpet offcuts the same size as the crown board all year.

 

[Finman]

.
In summer I change entrance size according weather. But I do change it every week.

.when hive does not get yield, hive is quite cool. During yield hive is quite hot and it needs much fanning.

Otherwise my polyhives are same as in winter. Inner cover is always same.

Tomorrow we have 25C.
Lilac is blooming and apple trees.

 

[itma]

I use carpet offcuts the same size as the crown board all year.

For insulation, you can do better (unless you happen to be in the carpet trade!)

50mm thick Celotex building insulation board (in small enough sheets to fit into a car) are cheap enough at Wickes.
But if you ask around at building sites you may be able to scrounge some offcuts of the wonderful 100mm thick stuff.

 

[Swarm]

I have builders onsite at the moment and asked about offcuts of this stuff (kingspan, etc) they laughed at me and told me the idea is not to have any offcuts because it's so expensive.

When this split was done did you add comb or foundation?

 

[lorrick]

Hello Swarm
I put 5 frames in the center of the new hive of brood, honey comb, and pollen. the rest of the frames are foundation.
The old hive has the same but the super has about 6 or 7 frames of honey and brood ? and 2 Queen Cells yes in the super (don't ask). Brood and honey in the brood chamber. Both hives have bees taking pollen into the hive.

 

[Moggett]

For insulation, you can do better (unless you happen to be in the carpet trade!)

50mm thick Celotex building insulation board (in small enough sheets to fit into a car) are cheap enough at Wickes.
But if you ask around at building sites you may be able to scrounge some offcuts of the wonderful 100mm thick stuff.

When we had the house carpeted a number of years ago I kept back some of the biggest offcuts. I have enough squares to put a few on top of each crown board during winter. I also have them for nucs. Celotex seems quite pricey.

 

[Tom Bick]

Hello All, I have split a hive yesterday and all seems to be going well. But as the weather is looking to get bad again, I am assuming that as I have decreased the number of bees in each hive, there is less of them to keep the hive warm they might suffer from the cold more,. I have one colony in a Brood box and the other is in a brood box with a super on top as they have made queen cells in the honey super and I have not seen a queen so I am waiting till that one sorts itself out then putting it down to a Brood box only, unless that is wrong ? , Is there a standard thing that is done to keep them warm or do I just let them get on with it. Both hives are out of the wind.
Thanks
Richard

It will all depend on how you split the hive and how the two halves are configured. If one half has lots of brood and to few bees then perhaps some chilling of the brood may be the result.

Also if the splits are now in a too large a space for the bees this will take heat away from the bees.

 

[Little John]

I'd also note that crownboards don't need holes.
Holes let the warmth out if you don't close them off.

Feeder boards and clearer boards have holes, and so don't make good crownboards.
The compromise all-in-one board is a poor compromise.

Got to disagree with that ...

I use custom 4-hole feeder/crown boards, which have 3" expanded polystyrene insulation on top, with holes cut out for the inverted jars. Each hole 'plug' is left in place unless a jar is being deployed at that station. Thin semi-rigid plastic sheeting (similar to the old-style X-ray film) is slid underneath each plug to stop the bees gnawing the EPS.

Swapping between feeder-mode and crown-board-mode only requires the sliding of the plastic film to one side, after the jar is in place. Replenishing the jar simply involves sliding the film inwards to cover the hole, swapping jars, then sliding the film out again. At no time is any discernable heat lost.

All I need to do now is figure out a way of incorporating a clearance device in addition, and I'm well on my way to a Gong - "for services to beekeeping" (said with tongue held firmly in cheek).

LJ

 

[Finman]

.
I use feeder only once a year. I have not made any figurations for feeder.

i use 4 mm board piece with 8 litre contact feeder.

 

[Swarm]

Hello Swarm
I put 5 frames in the center of the new hive of brood, honey comb, and pollen. the rest of the frames are foundation.
The old hive has the same but the super has about 6 or 7 frames of honey and brood ? and 2 Queen Cells yes in the super (don't ask). Brood and honey in the brood chamber. Both hives have bees taking pollen into the hive.

They do sound a bit small at five frames of brood and stores for full brood boxes and they will need bees, warmth and food to draw out foundation. Perhaps removing some of the foundation and filling the gap behind a divider/dummy board would be beneficial by making things a little easier for them. Spare drawn comb would also help but that will come in time.

 

[HM Honey]

Try this from Wickes. Cheaper than Kingspan

http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/161297

 

[itma]

... Celotex seems quite pricey.

Try this from Wickes. Cheaper than Kingspan

http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/161297

Errr, not really.

Celotex 50mm foil-faced from Wickes 1200x450 fits in the car.
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/190546
£5.59
Pricey?

 

[HM Honey]

Errr, not really.

Celotex 50mm foil-faced from Wickes 1200x450 fits in the car.
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/190546
£5.59
Pricey?

Yep, thats cheaper..... And it has a better thermal conductivity......

The stuff I linked to though is thicker (60mm vs 50mm) and wider (500mm vs 450mm)....Lol

 

[Moggett]

Originally Posted by itma
Errr, not really.

Celotex 50mm foil-faced from Wickes 1200x450 fits in the car.
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/190546
£5.59
Pricey?

Ooooops - was looking at the multi packs!