- Joined
- Jul 23, 2009
- Messages
- 36,571
- Reaction score
- 17,178
- Location
- Ceredigion
- Hive Type
- 14x12
- Number of Hives
- 6
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Depends who you use the stick on - Ron might find out soon unless he starts behavingHe needs encouragement. Carrots work better than sticks.
Mr Ron has gone.
or should that be Ta ta Ron ron ron ta ta Ron ron?Dee doo run run.dee doo Ron run.
Thx for the comments.I am very much a novice hobby bee keeper and I was fascinated by the size of your monster sized hive compared to my standard size National and wbc.
It seems that the frame holder you are using is slowing you down and perhaps consider holding the lugs of your Hoffmans over the nest box, as it would be easier for you to “read” the frames by blowing over the bees to get a clearer view.
Perhaps you might consider standing facing the same direction as your pal (the legs) towards the hive so making it easier to free up the frames to pick up and “read” your frames and complete your inspection more quickly, which would be worth considering if your number of hives increases from 2 hives.
Another aid perhaps to consider would be a manipulation cloth as I felt your bees were getting a bit excitable nearer the end of your inspection.
Maybe my excitable is other folks calm?
Just for you -................ More videos please.
Interesting. I was thinking I could keep them down and out of harms way if I had used more - less suits me. I hate the idea of using smoke really.Very docile bees hive like that I'd not be using smoke much... Ditch the frame lifter and no point in lifting brood less frames
Gove washing - good tipThanks for sharing the video.. They looked really calm from the start.
The same as above really I probably wouldn't of used so much smoke, there was no need, you might of had more chance of finding the Queen.
I know this is personal preference but I don't like the j hive tool, I always use a standard hive tool and the frame grabber would of gone out the window.
You will find that unless you wash your leather gloves, they will get covered in bee venom and more than likely get stung on the hands.
Im not saying they aren't handy because you need them, sometimes when you are doing some serious manipulating of the frames and boxes, or your going through a rouge or Q- colony.
But maybe get your self some nitriles or marigolds.
I also thought the inspection went on a bit, if that was a bigger colony there would of been bee's every where.
One more thing rather than smoke or water spray or a bee brush.. I some times use a cockerels feather to move bees of frames.
ThxYou have lots of room in the brood box and a super with lots of stored syrup, its unlikely they will draw the second super this year - may as well remove it. I didn't notice a queen excluder so your queen could easily have been in the first super. As long as you see eggs and/or very young larvae you don't have to see the Q. She will be easier for you to spot early next spring , she will be bigger and there will be less bees.
I agree with others about the frame lifter, its a personal choice. Good to see how careful and gentle you tried to bee, sudden movements and jerks will get them excited as you noted when you lost grip on a frame. Overall they looked to be pretty calm, if you find the sheer number of bees coming up from between the frames disconcerting take up the idea of using an 'inspection cloth' it will physically keep them down and maybe help a little in maintaining the hive temperature. Good to see that you mostly smoked by wafting it and not blasting it into the hive. Good job all in all.
Thx for the comments.
The national deep is a choice I made years ago before I ever got a chance to start keeping. The idea is to have a single box for brood and never need to worrey that the queen will run out of space. They are really heavy when they are full of honey!
Last time I went near the hive I used rubber gloves and they were way more aggressive - got stung on the hand through the glove and really didn't want to drop a frame, so as my leathers are too thick to feel carefully, this time I tried the grip. It is slow, as you say. Maybe I will get faster. The bees hate it if I blow them - really gets them at my face.
Love the idea of the manipulation cloth - do you have a good source for one?
Q- = queenless colony/hive.Gove washing - good tip
What is a Q-colony?
Cockerel feather - excellet idea, thx
They do - but this doesn't effect the results so long as you put the very small hole in the sensors down on the wood. Tonight brood Right is 32 deg, brood Left is 26deg, crown board 22deg and outside hive is 12deg. A wopping 20 deg difference.Would the bees not propolise them?
Thx for the comments.
The national deep is a choice I made years ago before I ever got a chance to start keeping. The idea is to have a single box for brood and never need to worrey that the queen will run out of space. They are really heavy when they are full of honey!
Last time I went near the hive I used rubber gloves and they were way more aggressive - got stung on the hand through the glove and really didn't want to drop a frame, so as my leathers are too thick to feel carefully, this time I tried the grip. It is slow, as you say. Maybe I will get faster. The bees hate it if I blow them - really gets them at my face.
Love the idea of the manipulation cloth - do you have a good source for one?
I had never heard of these gadgets until you mentioned them.They do - but this doesn't effect the results so long as you put the very small hole in the sensors down on the wood. Tonight brood Right is 32 deg, brood Left is 26deg, crown board 22deg and outside hive is 12deg. A wopping 20 deg difference.
I use the fine kid leather gloves as like you I don’t relish stings.
If you feel more confident with the thicker gloves use them as the more you use them, the more dexterous and faster, you will become, especially if you try holding the lugs of the Hoffmans instead of that frame holder.
The nitrile disposable gloves are for bio security, so in that case just stick the largest pair of nitriles you can get over your kid gloves.
Blowing the bees in the ‘direction away’, from you, will stop them going to your face or as another forumite suggested try and use a large feather( not tried that yet myself) to move them on.
Don’t get hung up about having to see the queen, all you need to look for, is eggs or sealed brood and mark top of the frame with a drawing pin each side of the brood nest to check expansion of brood nest from previous inspection.
Using the pin markers at next inspection, you can miss out taking out all the frames and save yourself some time, as you can tell at a glance which frames had brood and start round that marked frame.
Resist the urge to inspect too frequently as it’s similar to digging up your tatties to inspect how much they are growing.
Each time you inspect your hive, you set it back by a day.
But if you only have one or two hives, then you have all the time in the world, for your inspection but as time becomes more precious as the number of hives increases, you will get quicker as a matter of necessity.
The manipulation cloth is available from Thornes ( don’t buy a second) on page 28 of the Thornes catalogue Feb 2000 priced at £26.35.
This is a new one on me - thx a million for it. Makes perfect sense............ As you replace frames after inspecting them keep them squashed together. Leaving frames gapped means you lose your working space and start rolling bees which can annoy them and when you get everything back together you've a lot of spaces for bees to get squashed as you push it all together.................."
The manipulation cloth is available from Thornes ( don’t buy a second) on page 28 of the Thornes catalogue Feb 2000 priced at £26.35.
I just share the bits that have worked for me as well as the boo boos, and if I don’t know about something I ask for other forumites adviceYou know more than you let on
You are the man who is handy that us mere mortals dream about.Or make your own with a piece of old curtain and two pieces of dowel .. approx £2.62
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