how long should I feed.

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Then that would have been the advice - the link to the post - . Instead of a verbal attack by what I thought would have been understanding experienced beekeepers.

Looking back a few pages often gives the answer one requires without having even having to ask the question. Not really too much trouble.

If I had read in a book that bees needed feeding I would expect to also be informed as to how long for.
 
I would say if the bees have stores, and appear to be bringing in nectar, you don't need to feed them. Depending on forage in your specific area it is unlikely they will need feeding at the moment. If they are light on stores, by all means give them some food, it certainly won't kill them. If there's plenty of forage around they may not take it - still no harm done. Keep a close eye in the next few weeks the flow will start drying up and some small colonies/nucs may need support. Hope this helps.

Advice that a new beek who has read all the book should know without asking.
 
Hang on this is a begginers section... a little courtesy even to trolls would not go a miss.

I was'nt being discourteous to anybody.
I quoted what somebody had said and stated that it is what people should know, and it was not directed to anybody in particular.
 
I may be missing the point here, But no one has asked the OP what part of the A/S they are concerned with feeding.

If it is the Q+ part on all new foundation (thus no stores) I would give a starter feed and keep a close eye on the weather and foraging opportunity and make a judgement call on continuation feeding based on this. It's not like an A/S truly emulates a natural swarm as we give them no notification to give them time to fill up with existing stores to be used for comb building.

For the OP Part of being a beginner is not just about asking a question but having enough prior knowledge to ask the question fully. This forum is a great wealth of knowledge and I am sure you can imagine how frustrating it is for the "Old Hands" to repeatedly answer the same question, season after season and at times within the same DAY! All the information is somewhere on the forum but you do need to know what you type in for the search to give informative results.

May I suggest that in the future you could try starting your posts with "I have searched through the forum and am still unsure as what to do in ..." Even the harshest of repliers will atleast feel that you have tried to research your own question.
 
I may be missing the point here, But no one has asked the OP what part of the A/S they are concerned with feeding.

Why would one need feeding and one not.
 
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It seems very difficult question to handle...like feeding and syrup mixing.
I feed AS with crystallized honey frames

AS is good to feed, if they do not get nectar from nature.
If nectar is coming in, first bees have difficulties to store nectar because they have no combs. Some AS start to draw combs during first night and some after several days.

One hive was odd this summer. It had laying queen in AS and it decided to do nothing. I changed the queen to a virgin, and comb building started after couple of hours. Old queen sent a feromone message, don't draw!
 
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how long should I feed.

There is no categoric answer to that question.

As long as, and if, necessary. But only if necessary.

Most colonies do not need feeding at all. They never get fed in the wild. Those bees in the wild which do not collect, or do not have, sufficient stores would perish. Genes gone from the pool. Survival of the fittest, etc, etc.

Your reading source is rubbish. There will almost always be a honey arch above the brood. There will be no open brood after about a week, so no more larvae to feed.

So it quoting 'for the next few weeks' is absolute garbage. One week, perhaps - and quite likely not necessary. After one week, there will, again, be adequate foragers to maintain the colony. Read it carefully, too; it also says 'may' need feeding. That most certainly does not mean 'will'.

IF, on the other hand, they decide to swarm while there is no income (as in forage, not any shortage of bees), and stores are insufficient to last until the next inspection, you would then consider feeding. 'Consideration'would take into account not only the current level of stores but also the weather and flow conditions. If it warm and dry and there is plenty of forage, you would not feed unless very low on stores. Application of common sense, really. You are the beekeeper and bees do not read books.

Autumn feeding is entirely a different matter. We are, as yet, nowhere near autumn.

a). People should read everything carefully, and b). Those that give out information should get it right.

There are too many that don't read properly/carefully, and also don't think of actually checking out if what is printed, or said, actually makes sense.

Hope you don't mind me sort of adding on to your post RAB but I thought it would keep your concise answer intact with my additional thoughts.
As a 'new bee', you might try watching the entrance for a while and observe what is happening. Are there many fliers, are they carrying pollen, if not they usually carry something (nectar perhaps and so don't need syrup). Bees don't fly for fun , they work. Plus I think you mentioned putting a super on. Feeding to assist brood box build is one thing but really filling a super is a no-no as any honey would be contaminated. A bit too early to worry about winter, it's only July! Hope this helps.
 
This is my first year of Beekeeping and I had to perform an AS. How long should I feed with syrup for. Performed the AS on the 1st July and I am feeding a 1:1 syrup. If I have to give the hive a honey super it will be with undrawn foundation. I obviously wont be taking Honey off it this year so I want to ensure they go into the Winter with enough stores.

The answer is at all times of year, feed if they have low stores.
First learn to recognise stores, both open and sealed
Then a rule of thumb:
If you add up all the area of stores and it comes to tmore than the area of one side of a frame, then you should not feed.
Others might argue on the threshold level, but it is the principle of observe, then take a decision that counts.
 
I've just come back from Tescos and it seems my fridge is already full of food. What am I supposed to do with my shopping?
 
It appears that lightning does strike twice in the one place. Earlier this evening I read a post where a beginner was getting slagged off by experienced beekeepers for asking a question. Instead of offering advice his question was ridiculed. It appears that maybe I shouldn't have asked a question where the answer is so obvious to experienced beekeepers. It would be so much more pleasant to be in the forum if the first replies were not attacks - but advice
Yep, I agree, it may be exasperating for the "old hands", but we newbees need support (I thought that was one of the main advantages of the forum..?) you'd think some people practise psychic bee keeping. I was told that the bees will take what they need from feed and stop when they have a more preferable (to them) source, but hey... I've lost my crystal ball too...
 
-was told that the bees will take what they need from feed and stop when they have a more preferable (to them) source,-

That is correct, but that has nothing to do with feeding the correct amount. 'Wish and hope' beekeeping.

Read it again carefully, probably several times, and you might just understand what it really means and the implications of doing that. What you could do and the proper way are widely different in the real beekeeping world.

You can just throw a small five frame nuc in a full box of frames and let them get on with it. Some do that. But it does not make a good job of it if the weather is decidedly chilly and you want them expanding in colony size. You can raise queens from test frames in weak colonies, but don't t expect that the queen produced will be of the best quality. Lots of things you can do. There is also the simple best practice ways of achieving the desired outcome. Some don't even know what outcome they are supposed to be aiming for.

You don't need a crystal ball, just a brain that can think and work things out.

Now, back to your problem sentence that you were taught. Give it some thought and when you have worked it all out, come back and tell us what it really means and whether that is really best practice.
 
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It is quite usual that in a good flow a nuc or a little colony fills quickly its combs with honey and that queen has no place to lay. So the colony may swarm without warning. An experienced beekeeper may move extra honey frames to a big hive and can arrange space.

A beginner has no experience to see, what is developing in the hive. And feed feed feed is very common advice, is it July to December. And to be continued in February.
 
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-was told that the bees will take what they need from feed and stop when they have a more preferable (to them) source,-

That is correct, but that has nothing to do with feeding the correct amount. 'Wish and hope' beekeeping.

Read it again carefully, probably several times, and you might just understand what it really means and the implications of doing that. What you could do and the proper way are widely different in the real beekeeping world.

You can just throw a small five frame nuc in a full box of frames and let them get on with it. Some do that. But it does not make a good job of it if the weather is decidedly chilly and you want them expanding in colony size. You can raise queens from test frames in weak colonies, but don't t expect that the queen produced will be of the best quality. Lots of things you can do. There is also the simple best practice ways of achieving the desired outcome. Some don't even know what outcome they are supposed to be aiming for.

You don't need a crystal ball, just a brain that can think and work things out.

Now, back to your problem sentence that you were taught. Give it some thought and when you have worked it all out, come back and tell us what it really means and whether that is really best practice.

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It is quite usual that in a good flow a nuc or a little colony fills quickly its combs with honey and that queen has no place to lay. So the colony may swarm without warning. An experienced beekeeper may move extra honey frames to a big hive and can arrange space.

A beginner has no experience to see, what is developing in the hive. And feed feed feed is very common advice, is it July to December. And to be continued in February.

To me these replys are seem slightly contradictory, I do appreciate the input and will of course do things my way which may or may not be correct, if there is "a" correct way, via "just a brain that can think" or from the plethera of advice out there.
my main point however about "old hands" was to reassure Islayhawk, because it is all to easy to feel flammed.
 
You do not show where they might even be slightly contradictory. I can see none at all. You do not seem to be able to differentiate between feeding when necessary and willy-nilly feeding. You really need to spend your time on working out the differences, like I suggested above. Until then, you clearly have no chance of understanding when to feed and when feeding is not a productive option.

I, like Finman, often remove frames of excess stores from nucs. I have often removed excess stores from colonies in the spring, too. The queen is able, at times to lay two thousand eggs per day, given suitable conditions. That is a deep National frame every two days?

You might eventually get it. You feed when necessary. Necessary does not mean 'willy-nilly', 'at any time', 'all the time', or any other slants you may perceive as appropriate. Only when necessary means just that - only when necessary. Fix that in your brain and return to your sentence for proper analysis. Come back when you have worked it out.
 
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