Hornet trap escape holes question ?

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Bob D.

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Hi,

I've been reading the NBU how to build a hornet trap instructions.
http://www.nationalbeeunit.com/downloadDocument.cfm?id=607

Sounds simple enough, they go into detail about constructing "escape holes" but say nothing about how they are to be used ?

Do you hang the trap up with the holes open or closed ? When should you change from one to the other ?

Sorry if I'm missing something obvious here. Never tried to trap a hornet before.
 
Leave the escape holes open to allow non-hornets to get out easily. They won't all get out of course but the idea is to not kill 'useful' species such as wasps. Now if that doesn't open a debate ....
 
Hi,

I've been reading the NBU how to build a hornet trap instructions.
http://www.nationalbeeunit.com/downloadDocument.cfm?id=607

Sounds simple enough, they go into detail about constructing "escape holes" but say nothing about how they are to be used ?

Do you hang the trap up with the holes open or closed ? When should you change from one to the other ?

Sorry if I'm missing something obvious here. Never tried to trap a hornet before.

Your not missing anything. They havent said that the holes need to be about 5.5 to 6 mm ( that i could see) and no more. Most non target species can get out , but if you use the right attractant you wont have much of a problem. What they have published is good info. the traps are the right ones.
if you want to make the same trap , heres the video.https://youtu.be/44-rV7kqhdk

All you do is insert a mesh floor if you only want to view whats gone in.

I feel a surge in the hunt for coke bottles this winter!!
 
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Leave the escape holes open to allow non-hornets to get out easily. They won't all get out of course but the idea is to not kill 'useful' species such as wasps. Now if that doesn't open a debate ....

yup, but i know what i do....
 
Your not missing anything. They havent said that the holes need to be about 5.5 to 6 mm ( that i could see) and no more. Most non target species can get out , but if you use the right attractant you wont have much of a problem. What they have published is good info. the traps are the right ones.
if you want to make the same trap , heres the video.https://youtu.be/44-rV7kqhdk

All you do is insert a mesh floor if you only want to view whats gone in.

I feel a surge in the hunt for coke bottles this winter!!

I think I read the instructions 3 times before I got the hang of what was intended. They are pretty poor but they do give instructions about the escape - "Now make two more opposite holes with a larger nail (a 4 inch nail will give holes about 5mm diameter)."

I don't really understand how the trap works in use. The hornets clearly don't drown in the attractant because the mesh prevents that but I could not figure out how you get any angry hornets out with them likely to be still alive. Any thoughts on how to safely empty it?

CVB
 
I think I read the instructions 3 times before I got the hang of what was intended. They are pretty poor but they do give instructions about the escape - "Now make two more opposite holes with a larger nail (a 4 inch nail will give holes about 5mm diameter)."

I don't really understand how the trap works in use. The hornets clearly don't drown in the attractant because the mesh prevents that but I could not figure out how you get any angry hornets out with them likely to be still alive. Any thoughts on how to safely empty it?

CVB


In the trap the show here , you pull off the base with attractant in and you can empty the trapped hornets. I admit i have tried this but i personally didn't like this design. They call the bottom of the trap the "sleeve effect", so you add another removable section to the base. This in truth is difficult to do as the I've tried this and the weight of the attractant, generally pulls down and over time, the bottom falls off if your not careful.
Your better off just making the full traps , and if your worried, make the holes in the side like you've done. so other non target insects can escape, then to empty out hornets you can flush them through with water . even if your worried about catching Common hornets, if you have time to monitor them every day, often you find common hornets are alive for a good 12 hours so this does give you time to empty them out

To be honest, all traps sold here are surprisingly non selective. everything drowns. we've seen no difference in beneficial insects and levels of common hornets.


The NBU are completely correct in their presenting a model of traps that dont kill everything. they must be seen to be instigators of selective trapping. as much as the common hornet is a P in the A at times, as we've said many times, their also very beneficial.
 
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I think I read the instructions 3 times before I got the hang of what was intended. They are pretty poor but they do give instructions about the escape - "Now make two more opposite holes with a larger nail (a 4 inch nail will give holes about 5mm diameter)."

I don't really understand how the trap works in use. The hornets clearly don't drown in the attractant because the mesh prevents that but I could not figure out how you get any angry hornets out with them likely to be still alive. Any thoughts on how to safely empty it?

CVB

Therein lies the folly of the design. The issue that the NBU are faced with is that when someone develops Kounis and dies as a consequence of being stung because of the dangerous design of the trap then arguably the NBU will be publicly liable.
 
.... They call the bottom of the trap the "sleeve effect", so you add another removable section to the base. This in truth is difficult to do as the I've tried this and the weight of the attractant, generally pulls down and over time, the bottom falls off if your not careful......

I've scanned (below) the third page of the NBU's trap instructions. The function of the piece of plastic-coated wire shown in the two lower photos is to hold the bottom (attractant vessel) section in place. You have to have two sets of holes for this piece of wire - one set for selective mode where the 5mm holes are open to let out smaller insects and the second set is used when in non-selective mode. I quess if this is being used as a sentinel trap and you caught a VV, you would not want to empty it but keep it in place for the NBU to inspect. If you trapped a European Hornet or two, you'd put on your beesuit and release them if still alive (but very angry) - you don't actually need to handle them.

With the piece of wire in place, as shown, the bottom removable section, with the attractant in it, should stay attached to the main body of the trap.

CVB
 

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