Grafting larvae

[Suzi Q]

Is it essential to position the larva the same way up in the cup-kit as it was in the cell in the brood frame? After finally managing to get the larvae out with a fine brush, in some cases, i think they went in up-side down to what they were in the brood frame. I am trying the Ben Harman method, re: an earlier thread. I had tried a week ago, they didn't take, but I'm hopeful this will go better since the bees had drawn some wax around the rim of the cups, which had been left in the hive.

 

[fatshark]

If you mean the side facing up (air) is now down (base of cup) then they might suffocate as the spiracles can get blocked. However a quick look at Hooper doesn't seem to mention this. Is there a good flow on? If not, make sure the Ben Harden setup is being fed syrup all the time there are open queen cells.

 

[ian]

Hi

Yes the young larvae need to go in the same way up. If you are grafting into plastic cups its recommend to get the cups/frame into the hive before grafting for a short period. It gives the bees a chance to get a bit of wax on them/acclimatise.


Ian

 

[Finman]

.
I sharpen a small tree twig and tilt a little bit the tip L-shape.

 

[mbc]

The literature suggests its important to keep them the same way up, however, in practice, it doesnt seem to matter a jot. What is important is not to poke or roll the little larvae too much, I suppose the instruction not to put them in upside down does ensure you place them carefully.
IMHO the idea of drowning them by immersing the spiracles in royal jelly is bunkum.

 

[testka]

I'm looking at attempting grafting this year also. Does anyone have any links to good videos or explanations that explain the actual moving of larvae process? Thanks.

 

[Suzi Q]

Thanks guys, I shall see in a few days if I was careful enough, my first efforts at grafting. I wanted to do it quickly but my hands were shaking! I had scraped back the cells on the comb to get at the larvae, will the bees repair the damage after putting it back into the donor hive?

 

[rolande]

I'm looking at attempting grafting this year also. Does anyone have any links to good videos or explanations that explain the actual moving of larvae process? Thanks.

iwf queen rearing.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZlQ7mNmf6o&feature=share&list=PL2E453F0A286CDF09[/ame]

 

[testka]

Thanks rolande, vids blocked at work but will check when I get back

 

[DulwichGnome]

I had tried a week ago, they didn't take, but I'm hopeful this will go better since the bees had drawn some wax around the rim of the cups, which had been left in the hive.

Our first lot, using the John Harding setup, last week did not take either, others I grafted into a Q- hive a few days later have. I'm not sure if the extra heat and/or flow over the last few days has made the difference.

Mike.

 

[Suzi Q]

I checked my grafts today and only one has developed, which for my 2nd attempt I am very proud of! It is capped already, so assuming the bees capped it today, Thursday, and it was grafted on Monday, that means the larva must have been two days old? Looking to fill the apidea on Monday and transfer the cell Tuesday, next week?
Do others check the grafts daily to get an idea when the cells are capped?

 

[protheroe]

keep an eye on the bees because my carnies have swarmed many times using the ben harden system and unless theres a flow on I don't get much luck.

 

[fatshark]

That's too short a time to get a really well fed queen ... next time choose the smallest larvae you can find, the ones right next to eggs in the frame. They are about the size of a comma on a printed page. Almost translucent.

Use a head torch and cut back the cell wall to help. The bees repair the damage.

If you know age of your grafts, check they've been accepted a day after grafting then you don't need to look again until the cell is sealed and you add a hair roller cage (if you bother).

 

[Suzi Q]

Oh b*gg*r I'm making a duff queen. I think I will carry on and get through the whole process, good practice. And I'll check the brood boxes soon, for swarming.

 

[Suzi Q]

I transferred the capped cell into an Apidea today, it is looking good, with the tip a darker colour, so should emerge soon. I put in, I think, more bees than necessary, but it is still quite chilly at night so the more bees the better.
What should I do with the unused cups that the bees didn't use to raise queens? They have a rim of wax around the cup. Is that useful for the next attempt at grafting, or shall I clean them, then re-use? I was planning to use the same hive, after a demarree for swarm control. Q is 2 years old.

 

[Norton]

The darker colour at the tip is not a good sign.

 

[testka]

So what does the dark tip of the queen cell mean?

Thanks.

 

[Erichalfbee]

I thought it meant that the bees had removed the wax tip and you could see the dark cocoon just prior to the queen's emergence.

 

[beekeeping4you]

I'd say the queen bites through the cocoon from inside, the wax on the outside stays intact. If you find the wax removed and the cocoon exposed it could mean that the queen inside is dead??

 

[Norton]

Dark tip probably means that it is dead.