Got a TBH yipee

[Tom Bick]

Collected this TBH and TBH nuc last night both occupied with bees the nuc populated from a AS from the big hive.

Unfortunately three days earlier I was informed the nuc had swarmed, I assume this was down to overcrowding but its still reasonably full and I intend to combine in time.

I actually made the hives last year for a customer and she has now decided to go with national hives and offered the TBH to me for free but gave her all the kit for a national hive and I am very happy with it.

It is currently on my allotment apiary for now but hope to move it to a nature reserve soon just waiting for the thumbs up.

 

[BeeJayBee]

It's a beautiful looking hive, Tom.

 

[Brosville]

Nice substantial hive - good luck with it!

 

[justme]

Cracking looking hive:.)

 

[jackbee]

Keen to have a go with a TBH when I've got a cpl yrs of beekeeping under my belt. Didn't think of a tbh nuc but make sense - neat!

 

[yeogi75]

tb has a tbh nice one

 

[Erichalfbee]

Nice hive
I was going to ask if you had made it when you mentioned it on another thread

 

[Tom Bick]

Cheers everyone I enjoyed making it along with its sister that is as far as I know giving its owner along with the bees that occupy it great satisfaction.

I know something more basic is all that is required but when you are asked to make something that is of interest to me I always want to do that bit more despite the extra time involved. To be honest its been a bit of a downfall of mine over the years.

So when this was offered back to me I was delighted and will be even more delighted if I can put it on the nature reserve that is linked to my association with the idea of education and demonstration. My association are very open to allsorts of beekeeping a very bohemian feel to the place.

Its not down to my association more the committee that runs the nature reserve we already have 4 hives housed within a bee shed as a number of horses are in the fields at times so a bit of fencing will be required.

If it has to stay on my allotment apiary then I will have to change the roof as it will attract to much attention from the people who like to vandalise and think perhaps something good in that the same as all the sheds they keep breaking into.

 

[tonybloke]

'they' don't tend to break into the sheds without locks on them, (the ones with the door wedged shut with a stick) in fact, they rarely even look into those ones. ( big lock = something worth thieving?)

 

[Tom Bick]

Yes thats right Tony I am with you on that, I have never locked my shed but they still go inside and recently I have had a few tools taken, rusty old tools, they want them for scrap.

I always tell people its best not to lock sheds but some people just dont get it and then some people have rotavators and strimmers in their sheds and are surprised when they go missing

This site was great when there was only six of us out of 90 plots but now its full all the sheds are a magnet.

 

[newportbuzz]

lovely looking hive.

re shuting sheds a piece of baling twine tied to the trigger of a old 12 gauge tends to keep them out.
well once the word goes round it does anyway

 

[ratcatcher]

poacher mines (shotgun blanks) only work the first time, once they know they are there they look harder for the lines/string and simply cut them, my mates garden has around 10 of these dotted about, the bugga's still come in, nick a chicken and found then out again...

 

[alanf]

I always tell people its best not to lock sheds but some people just dont get it and then some people have rotavators and strimmers in their sheds and are surprised when they go missing

Last time they were looking for petrol. For scrambler bikes we guessed. Generally, the bigger the lock, the more there is likely to be worth taking and the more effort goes into breaking it off. Which leaves damage to the shed as the biggest pain.

I pitch it at the basic poundshop lock level. It keeps out the curious or lazy but comes off without a lot of damage if the serious thief decides to go in. It doesn't signal there's a lot in there. Of course I don't keep the strimmer or mower there which would be convenient but there is a basic fork and spade during the season as well as the nets, tubs, canes, string, buckets, plastic watering can and other stuff of low value to a thief.

 

[Pooh Bear]

Yes, beautiful hive Tom. Good luck with it. How do you feel the bees compare to being in the National? Mine seem 'happier' but old time beekeepers laugh at me when I say that.

 

[Tom Bick]

It’s a bit hard to say its early days pretty similar but then I run my nationals with no foundation so I see them both as similar apart from the size and shape. I will say one thing since I have converted my nationals over to foundationless frames the bees are more relaxed or it seems that way to me.

Personally I think I am onto something its all very interesting not without its problems but for me pays rewards and every year more experience gained.

The TBH takes longer to inspect and the bees react but not to bad when you have to cut the bits of brace comb from the side of the box but once the comb is out of the box they just sit there and are ok. The bees are very dark and I can tell that they could react with rough handling. The hive has a new queen following an AS and has just got going so time will tell if they behave, this was a north London mating strange lot them north Londoners

 

[beebopalula]

Looks a good strong well-built hive. I would like a similar one in cedar, but have not got around to it yet. I also thought about trying my framed hives without foundation, but I think 14x12 may be too big - could collapse!

 

[Tom Bick]

Looks a good strong well-built hive. I would like a similar one in cedar, but have not got around to it yet. I also thought about trying my framed hives without foundation, but I think 14x12 may be too big - could collapse!

Not if you wire the frames first.

Simply drill 3 or 4 evenly spaced say 2mm holes equal distance down the length of the side bar's following the groove as a central line. Assemble the frame and nail it together, you will have to check for square at this point. Then thread the wire through the holes across down and back again. at each end half nail a frame nail wined the wire round a few times then drive the nail home. Before nailing the other end of the wire you will have to pull the wire tight in some way and be careful to keep the frame square I simply screw 4 screws into my bench to the inside corners if the frame and this works reasonable and after the frame can easily be checked and pushed back square if need be.

To be perfect we should fit eyelets in the holes but for an experiment the holes are just fine, I have started with the eyelets now as I know that I intend to continue this way.

I have found that if you give the bees a 1" starter strip they then build lovely straight comb, I started with smaller and I had to watch the bees closer as they could go out of shape at times but 1" seems to be a good size. I know one day a hive will go terribly wrong and I will have a bit of sorting out to do but for now when a comb is slightly out of shape I simply cut it a bit and push it back in shape.

If you are tempted then be aware that the bees are happy with up to 20-25% drone comb in the hive and you will have to get use to seeing drones so if you experiment with 3 frames this could all be drone. I experimented with a 14x12 last year with 5 frames wired and 6 frames foundation and the drone comb on the wired frames was quite something but I soon realized my mistake as my other hive although a standard national on 100% wired frames was fantastic and sold me on the concept.

I am yet to see evidence that my hives are a varroa factory that is often mentioned and one I expected, I have been monitoring throughout the season and not noticed high numbers, I did the other week spot an ant removing a varroa from one of my inspection tray's and this may be masking my level but recently I have done more drone cull and checked them but again not a great number. I have seen drones evicted from the hive with deformed wings so I know they are there and I expect a higher amount than normal and will start Thymol treatments early this year and will see what drop I get during that and I will be very surprised if it is not high or higher than I have had over previous years.

ps The TBH is Cedar by al means pm me if you need any help

 

[yeogi75]

i have had my bees nearly a week now, have noticed a wasp has found it already (dead now ), also the ants have found my hive and have started going up the legs of hive, do ants do any damage to the bees in any way, or as you say seen draging mite out could they be a help or hinderance, any thoughts ,bees in hational at moment thinking of transfering to tbh, but quite enjoying the hive as is mabe two hives next year ?

 

[Tom Bick]

No ants are no harm to your bees or even woodlice and earwigs depending on what your roof happens to attract.

My hives collect woodlice but only in the corners of the roof and not on the crown board as that will be to dry for them, a beekeeping buddy has loads of ants at the moment on his crown board with eggs as the ants are attracted to the heat, I tel him to unblock the crown board holes and you wont have a problem.

The ants taking the varroa mites of the inspection tray is a new one on me and that could be a problem if you rely on the drop as part of varroa monitoring

 

[madasafish]

I've had ants foraging over the top bars in my hives - and the mesh floor for the past 2 years...

Seen no impact at all.