Full healthy queenright brood box but bees not in super

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not from my experience, can you prove otherwise?
can you prove that it was the QX that was stopping them from going up? or did you just decide that something was stopping them - rather than there was no reason for them to move up.
 
can you prove that it was the QX that was stopping them from going up? or did you just decide that something was stopping them - rather than there was no reason for them to move up.
Whatever the reason why bees appear to be reluctant to draw comb in a new super above a queen excluder, it's no trouble to remove it for a few days until comb drawing starts. I don't care if the drawing starts because the excluder is out of the way or simply because of timing. The desired objective has been attained and the excluder can go back in after making sure the queen Is below it.
 
can you prove that it was the QX that was stopping them from going up? or did you just decide that something was stopping them - rather than there was no reason for them to move up.
Well you’ve seen an instant response from Swarm proving my point, you’re the one whom claimed it was nonsense so i think it is up to you to prove your claim
 
He proved nothing, just mentioned a faulty QX, different argument altogether - neither have you
Just regurgitating the oft recycled but baseless beliefs of the mantra chanters
 
I actually have more than one hive running at the moment with No QX, drawn comb in the super and bees having no interest in going up because they don't need to at the moment
People need to start thinking about their beekeeping rather than just doing everything by numbers and listening to some age old mantra which has little basis on truth
 
I've run both with and without QEs n parallel, its not scientific and I'm not claiming it is but I've noticed that those without QEs move up sooner. So not just quoting mantras.
My un scientific guess is that larger bees can't travel up as easily as smaller bees (as evidenced with dodgy QEs and possible with normal QEs) and would think as with most things bees as more bees that move up more smell/pheromone builds up in the super and this will happen faster without a QE getting in the way.
I have no intention of trying to prove this scientifically in case you as but it has worked for me
 
I've run both with and without QEs n parallel, its not scientific and I'm not claiming it is but I've noticed that those without QEs move up sooner. So not just quoting mantras.
My un scientific guess is that larger bees can't travel up as easily as smaller bees (as evidenced with dodgy QEs and possible with normal QEs) and would think as with most things bees as more bees that move up more smell/pheromone builds up in the super and this will happen faster without a QE getting in the way.
I have no intention of trying to prove this scientifically in case you as but it has worked for me


I notice that hives act differently.
It is always the stronger hives that enter the supers first, QE or no QE.

As a scientist I was always taught ascribing a reason to coincidence rather causation was a frequent error and should be avoided.
 
I'm not a scientist and don't have 1000s of hives to achieve a significant sample size so use the trial and error method.
I think most beekeeping habits have been derived that way up to now. The internet allows somewhat for a consensus check of ideas but I will agree there are a lot of crap ideas out there that get airtime. In this case I think there is little downside to removing the QE so feel comfortable proposing it
 
It's very simple. If there is no flow: no going up. If they are too weak they won't go up (flow or no flow) because you the beekeeper has increased their space by 50% and they are trying to keep the brood warm. I super on 8 frames of BROOD there is no other way to judge the strength of a colony as at 3pm it looks powerful, and the same colony at 3am looks pitiful.

Some thinking is needed for successful beekeeping.

PH
 
I super on 8 frames of BROOD there is no other way to judge the strength of a colony as at 3pm it looks powerful, and the same colony at 3am looks pitiful.

Some thinking is needed for successful beekeeping.

PH

What would you do if you have your 8 frames of brood but the remaining frames are undrawn/partially drawn...still add the super or wait for the brood box to be fully drawn?
 
Actually at the point I have the 8 of brood the remaining two are usually stores. I put on an excluder and super, and put a BB below which often times is all foundation. On they go. If I feel they are a bit tight in the top BB then I put a couple of brood frames below together and put two foundation in the gaps in the top BB but not side by side so the top is 6+2 and the bottom BB is 2. Pretty simple.

PH
 
Haha! Interesting. I know I’m coming late to the party- last booze drunk and last song played 🤔 - but I had same ‘no entry’ problem with two brand new wire QEs some time back. When I examined them properly (which I should have done before) they felt slightly greasy, I guess from the manufacturing process. Gave them a wash with warm soapy water and the bees instantly began to use them. I wish someone had mentioned it to me before 🙁
 
where on earth do they get these ideas from? If I didn't know any better I would think that all these BKAs do in their meeting is sit in a circle passing a big bong pipe around :sifone:
And what's wrong with passing a bong pipe around? The BKA aren't hip enough for that it would be bottles of spirits/wine and nibbles..
 
I actually have more than one hive running at the moment with No QX, drawn comb in the super and bees having no interest in going up because they don't need to at the moment
People need to start thinking about their beekeeping rather than just doing everything by numbers and listening to some age old mantra which has little basis on truth
They are by removing the qx / or leaving them out for a few days or putting them in later in the season would be my preference, June time just before the main flows.
 
Someone has just given me two Langstroth QEs made of bamboo. (Quite expensive I would think).
I am going to try them next year and see if the switch from steel or plastic to wood makes any difference. I am a little concerned as the gaps appear less - by approx 2mm - I have not measured them yet .

Of course it will be an experiment conducted on scientific principles - If I don't get the result I hope for I'll falsify the data.:eek:
 
And what's wrong with passing a bong pipe around?
If you'd encountered the amount of stoners I have who 'only did a little weed, no harm in that' and whose brains are now a mush or lives just totally wrecked you wouldn't be so blasé about it
 
Someone has just given me two Langstroth QEs made of bamboo. (Quite expensive I would think).
I am going to try them next year and see if the switch from steel or plastic to wood makes any difference. I am a little concerned as the gaps appear less - by approx 2mm - I have not measured them yet .

Of course it will be an experiment conducted on scientific principles - If I don't get the result I hope for I'll falsify the data.:eek:
Far from expensive sorry to burst your bubble these are cheap Chinese ones, generally supplied by the box manufacturers a as part of kits, that’s not to sat they will not do the job, just remember the bees from the area these are made may be a different size.
 

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