frame runners

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

user 22174

New Bee
Joined
Jan 12, 2023
Messages
13
Reaction score
5
Making plans for my Langstroth framed long hive. Framed hives normally have some kind of runner of plastic or metal to reduce the propolising of the frame lugs in the rebate. Frames will be self spacing, hoffman type and need to slide. I am thinking a strip of flat aluminium would do the job but it's all extra fiddle to let it in, drill, countersink, screw. Is there an easy practical solution?
 
Making plans for my Langstroth framed long hive. Framed hives normally have some kind of runner of plastic or metal to reduce the propolising of the frame lugs in the rebate. Frames will be self spacing, hoffman type and need to slide. I am thinking a strip of flat aluminium would do the job but it's all extra fiddle to let it in, drill, countersink, screw. Is there an easy practical solution?

You can't just drill a small hole every 150mm or so and then nail it into place through the holes?

James
 
Making plans for my Langstroth framed long hive. Framed hives normally have some kind of runner of plastic or metal to reduce the propolising of the frame lugs in the rebate.
Normally, but it's definitely not a necessity, short lug frames work fine without runners.
Is there an easy practical solution?
Don't use runners.
 
Totally random thought which hadn't occurred to me before, I wonder whether a lot of propolisation around the frame lugs is actually the result of having runners in the first place; the runner not only presents a very small point of contact which may allow for greater comb vibration in certain circumstances but also creates a well under the lugs that the bees deem undesirable so they get to work filling it. Probably total nonsense but its one possible explanation why hives without runners rarely receive so much attention of this nature.
 
Totally random thought which hadn't occurred to me before, I wonder whether a lot of propolisation around the frame lugs is actually the result of having runners in the first place; the runner not only presents a very small point of contact which may allow for greater comb vibration in certain circumstances but also creates a well under the lugs that the bees deem undesirable so they get to work filling it. Probably total nonsense but its one possible explanation why hives without runners rarely receive so much attention of this nature.
I've found without runners they propolise the ends and sides of the lugs, effectively glueing them down. It's a lot easier to break the propolis seal when there is only a small point of contact on the frame runners than when there are no runners.
 
One of my first hives was a secondhand maisemore and the runnerless rails had been multilated by the previous guys hive tool.
I'd set your frame height to include protection -you can always backfill with something (a hardwood strip perhaps) if you then decide against it
 
hives normally have some kind of runner of plastic or metal
Many suppliers sell metal runners which are pretty useless as the resulting gap beneath the lug is 3-7mm and defeats the purpose.

This thorough thread from Hiveanidea explored the issue; end result was that Maisemore sell the real deal.
 
Last edited:
Blimey. I see I wasn't over-thinking the issues
If you want runners it may even be worth contacting a few of the hive makers to see if they can cut you longer lengths to order, the runners must be made in lengths and cut down to size...
 
I use 3mm metal skim stop beads, you can buy a 2.5m length for a couple of pound in any builders merchants.
They come with holes already in them,just cut to length with a pair of tin snips.
 
Making plans for my Langstroth framed long hive. Framed hives normally have some kind of runner of plastic or metal to reduce the propolising of the frame lugs in the rebate. Frames will be self spacing, hoffman type and need to slide. I am thinking a strip of flat aluminium would do the job but it's all extra fiddle to let it in, drill, countersink, screw. Is there an easy practical solution?
55AEB549-680E-430D-8B59-ACEB15336BC3.jpeg
Thin stop angle bead, held with drawing pins. 5 years later.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top