Eyelets are easy to fit. Our guys made some jigs that fit all the eyelets in an end bar in one. Only works on accurately made predrilled end bars though with the holes identically spaced. thus we have a few jigs....for frames from different makers.
All the ones we have made to our spec are four wires in deeps, but its one continuous wire, high tensile hard drawn stainless steel to minimise stretching. Sourced from a company in Potters Bar.
We have in service a lot of NZ deep frames, originally brought into the UK with full frames of comb honey, and most of them are three wires and were fitted with staples. they are actually a bit inadequate for extracting heather honey at three wires, four is much better and the bottom wire should not be more than an inch or so from the bottom bars. Not really fond of the stapled ones so we eyelet them as they come through the system. The wires run over the staples less easily for tensioning, and sometimes they even cut the staple.
We wire using a Canadian pattern wiring board which features a cam which pushes the end bars in. Fit the wires as tight as possible by hand, release the cam, and the frame goes back to its original shape (as closely as it can) and the wires are then very tight.
We also find that ALL frames are cut by the wires if they have the proper tension we need to keep the comb very firm and flat. Spruce, fir, or pine. Most of our frames are pine.
Its all worth doing. Once you invest the time (about 3 mins per frame) in eyeleting and wiring, you can then rewax a whole box in about 6 minutes. We get our wax specially milled slightly short in size so it does not need to go into the side bars and stops a couple of cells short of the bottom bars. Makes the best sag free combs that way. Applies to all our combs equally well, both Lang and BS, deep and shallow.
