DIY Extractor

[Springer]

Hit a slight snag with the project, I have made the frame top retaining hoops what I thought was a nice fit for 22mm i.e. 7/8 inch top bars, but now find that 1 1/16 bars are used by some, which makes my hoops just a shade tight !
So the question which I think I may know the answer to, whats the likelihood of using the big top bars? for the price of a bit more stainless and not much trouble, shall I roll up some more ? Thats two questions ?? !!
S

 

[Tim1606]

Sooner or later the question had to arise, so where better to bring up the point regarding the electrification of honey extractors (2011 version).

Inverter Drive Supermarket (motor £55 and controller £93)
http://www.inverterdrive.com/default.aspx

Items #2 and #6 on the front page.

I recommend reading the site and the techno blogs if you are interested. it certainly puts £300+ for electrification into sharp relief. More due diligence to do of course and a few questions to ask, but it looks good and surprise, surprise the company seems to be more than happy to deal with hobbyists and small businesses.

Comments please.

Of note Pete, is the fact that a number of large extractors that use this sort of technology also use gearing, if only to allow the motor to be mounted horizontally. I have visions of you spinning round on top of a 12 frame extractor holding the drill, which will surely need to be fairly large to get that load running up to speed.

I have been thinking about puting a motor on ours, and i am looking into buying the above that you mentioned. A couple of questions before i take the plunge.

1) Have you done this yourself?
2) Are they easy to wire together?
3) Would you suggest putting the motor directly onto the mainshaft or gearing it somehow?
4) Have you any pics if you have done the conversion?

 

[Hombre]

Hello Tim,

No I haven't done this myself. It isn't something for the faint hearted in all honesty. The fact that the company was fairly local had a lot to do with my original recommendation to Hedgerow Pete, as their advice might be readily sought if necessary.

Fixed gearing is almost certainly required as it is normal to mount the motor horizontally, rather than vertically. As well as providing a right angled coupling, then I imagine that your max target speed for a rotating cage is likely to be around 800 rpm, but the motor is probably capable of a couple of thousand rpm, so a two or three to one step down of motor speed to the main cage shaft is likely to be beneficial.

If you have read the literature and feel confident then perhaps work out the financial risks before embarking on a project that is not necessarily guaranteed to succeed. Speaking to the motor controller supplier to solve specific problems or uncertainties is recommended and was one of the original perceived benefits of a local supplier.

This is certainly the way forward for larger extractors, but probably overkill at the nine frame level. A marvelous project though.

I don't own an extractor, but have experience of using a twenty frame Thompson and filling a forty frame job using this sort of technology.

 

[Springer]

I say H. isn't the the target speed for an extractor about 300 r.p.m, 800 will self destruct or go into orbit I would think

I have finished my extractor, well its been in use, but needs a bit more work to be really "finished ". Runs very well and next part of project is to go electric. I am not expert in bees and extracting but from what I have done so far think it will be worthwhile to go down this route. Whilst its spinning on its own you can be getting the next batch up capped ? (and I like making things !)
For me its a 12 volt ex wheel chair motor, have a couple under the bench there must be plenty about on the second hand market these days. For the speed control I have been on ebay and think these something there for less than £20 !
Will post a pic or two if anyone is interested .
S

 

[Alabamaeee]

Yes,

Please post a few pic of the project, always good to see others ingenuity

 

[Springer]

Here it is "part" finished. In a hurry to get it working to extract last week, lost my rape crop due to no extractor ! I used a quick fix plastic valve which is fine, but may do a stainless one over the winter.

Drive arrangement and inside. The drive handle is quite a lash up to say the least, but it works, I now have an idea where the handle should be, radius wise. The temporary handle is a decorative collar from wrought iron work, with a layer of carpet tape for comfort.
The center bearing is mounted in a piece of polycarbonate rather than ss, again for build speed. The bottom bearing is a plastic bush, in a ss tube.
The top frame holders are again temporary, a few pegs at the back are short lengths of threaded 6mm stainless, which were taking time to thread hence the bolts.
The idea was to weld in these pegs, but by using bolts it is possible to remove some and use the machine as a small tangential, don't know if its worthwhile ?
I was amazed how the frames just sit still, where they are put.
Another job is a top, nothing escaped as it is, but need to keep things out. Have in mind to box in the center strip, and have a couple of removable lids for the other bits, again in polycarbonate.
Should be quite easy to add a motor by bolting it to the side, the wall thickness should take it ! and then running a belt to a pulley fixed to the free running pulley, as a sort of idler.
Not efficient in gearing terms, but its what I have to hand and it can then be electric or manual by simply removing the motor belt.

I need some sort of stand to get a bucket under the tap, current thinking is either box or tube bolted to the bottom skirt, or cast up a concrete block and bolt is down with those three lugs that it has. Suggestion welcome.
Build cost is still below £100 but I was lucky to have some bits to hand and a good contact or two.
Very pleased with the result so far and once finished will be even better, with its weight it runs very smoothly. Really need to sort out some wheels !
S