I still think I'm missing the point.
Are you comparing bees in the hive on a summer's day to bees in the hive in the depths of winter - and saying that, give or take, the water vapour output is the same in both scenarios?
Or are you thinking about the dew point, which is the temperature to which the air in the hive would need to be cooled for the water vapour to condense? If the latter then, well, warm air can "hold" more moisture than cold air. So warm moist air in contact with something cold (or below its dew point) like a car windscreen, or the sides of a hive, cause the vapour to condense.
A hive is cooler in the winter, even a polyhive is not a perfect insulator, so the inside of the walls will be closer to (or below) the dewpoint of the air inside, so the water vapour condenses.
This is a Very Bad Thing if it drips on the bees. Even on the insides it will chill the hive if it evaporates again (this is kinda how a fridge works). That's part of the reason wet clothes are so cold as well.
The answer is to try and stop the air in the hive holding too much water vapour. We do that by allowing air to circulate, letting (generally) drier atmospheric air in and the built up vapour from bee "breathing" out. I am sure on some days, such as when it's foggy, the two are very close indeed to water content per litre.
I think the point being made is that too much water vapour in the hive makes the hive damp - like a wet pair of jeans. That, in turn, chills the bees, who try to vibrate more to get warm, metabolise more, "breathe" more, emit more vapour, raising the water content of the air (and the dew point) so the problem gets worse.
I don't know if you have ever been camping, but if it's really cold you will find ice on the inside of your tent. You will have breathed and sweated that out overnight. Eww. It's the same effect.
The other part of the debate was "how much ventilation?" Clearly removing the hive would be the maximum, but other exposures would kill the bees.
Some advocate none other than the entrance.
Finman opts for a hole drilled near the top of the frames
others just have an open mesh floor
And others have an open mesh floor, and the crownboard lifted on matchsticks
I am sure others have different ideas.
My personal preference is just the OMF, which is based on the idea that it allows some circulation, even if only by Brownian Motion, but not a howling gale like a chimney. Also, should water condense on the sides it can dribble out, not be re-evaporated to chill the sides/bees.
NM