cleaning perspex

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jonnybeegood

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whats the best way to clean the plastic crown boards on paynes nucs? the clear thin Perspex type. Ive scraped the rough off but theres quite a bit of propolis still well stuck on there.
 
A question for Pains? They make 'em and sell 'em, so should be best placed to supply service and maintenance info, I would have thought.

You could try soaking them in washing soda or, if competent, cleaning with lye. Not really a recommendation, as I don't know your capabilities, so you should stick to the official instructions from the manufacturer/supplier.
 
the idea of a forum is to get advice off people who know the best thing to do Oliver, not ask for someone to tell me to contact the supplier. but thanks for the input. Thanks to the others for the replies. Does it dissolve in washing soda? I take it caustic soda would be a bad idea?
 
if you can get hold of some isopropanol, that on a tissue will clean it off without affecting the plastic, or some label remover that will do as well.
isopropanol from chemist
label remover from craft shops
 
the idea of a forum is to get advice off people who know the best thing to do Oliver, not ask for someone to tell me to contact the supplier. but thanks for the input. Thanks to the others for the replies. Does it dissolve in washing soda? I take it caustic soda would be a bad idea?

Caustic soda/lye/sodium hydroxide are the same thing. Can be used with alot of care as it is really very corrosive.
 
... Thanks to the others for the replies. Does it [propolis] dissolve in washing soda? I take it caustic soda would be a bad idea?

Yes, propolis does dissolve in washing soda. Erichalfbee's right, using hot water really does speed things up.

You could use caustic, but there's really no need to use anything that strong because even if you get foulbrood you can use bleach to kill the spores.

As it's winter, and you might have some spare time, you might find it worth reading the NBU booklet "Hive Cleaning and Sterilisation"
www.nationalbeeunit.com/downloadDocument.cfm?id=423
 
Yes, propolis does dissolve in washing soda. Erichalfbee's right, using hot water really does speed things up.

You could use caustic, but there's really no need to use anything that strong because even if you get foulbrood you can use bleach to kill the spores.

As it's winter, and you might have some spare time, you might find it worth reading the NBU booklet "Hive Cleaning and Sterilisation"
www.nationalbeeunit.com/downloadDocument.cfm?id=423

Thankyou BJ i will have a look when i get to the computer .
 
Just a thought, long ago when record players had Perspex lids, it was said that if you had an unsightly scratch on it, polishing it with Brass0 would remove it.
I know you are not asking about scratches but might be of interest?
 
Just a thought, long ago when record players had Perspex lids, it was said that if you had an unsightly scratch on it, polishing it with Brass0 would remove it.
I know you are not asking about scratches but might be of interest?

The crown boards from Paynes are Polycarbonate not Perspex (Acrylic).. You are quite right . ... Perspex CAN be polished with a cutting agent .. unfortunately Polycarbonate CANNOT.
 
people who know the best thing to do Oliver, not ask for someone to tell me to contact the supplier.

Yes, but....

Often the advice given on a forum is absolute tat. Not so, in this case but, shirley, the advice of the supplier/manufacturer should be heeded above that supplied on an Internet forum. It is a relevant piece of advice and you should heed it.

I know that hot lye solution will remove propolis. It would likely be the best option for me, if I was inclined to use such a pansy, 'trendy' device, but clearly I would not recommend that method for you. A brillo pad and fairy liquid would likely be adequate to remove the stuff stuck to the surface.
 
people who know the best thing to do Oliver, not ask for someone to tell me to contact the supplier.

Yes, but....

A brillo pad and fairy liquid would likely be adequate to remove the stuff stuck to the surface.

Then you wouldn't be able to see through it anymore ;)
 
Then you wouldn't be able to see through it anymore

That's right. It would then be the same as all the rest of my crownboards! They work perfectly adequately.

The suggestion was that of simply removing the carp from the surface - all the OP asked about! He has likely scratched it already by scraping! Not doing that would be something the manufacturer/supplier should emphasise. Needs a good book to read, IMO.
 
It would likely be the best option for me, if I was inclined to use such a pansy, 'trendy' device, but clearly I would not recommend that method for you.


Amongst all your good advice I think disparaging clear crown boards was unnecessary. I don't use the flimsy 1mm thick ones that Paynes supply as standard - I make my own out of 6mm polycarbonate and I find them invaluable for a whole spectrum of reasons. I don't consider them either 'trendy' or 'pansy' .. just another tool to improve my beekeeping. They provide good insulation, do not deteriorate and at a 6mm thickness are rigid. For an inexperienced beekeeper they allow you to see what the bees are doing inside the hive and provide a close up view of individual bees. In the winter, if bees need fondant, the amount of fondant consumed can be easily seen without cracking the crown board (if using the method of siting the fondant on top of the frames). During the season you can look through the CCB and see where bees are building comb etc. without actually opening the hive. I'm not a fan of disturbing colonies unless there is a reason and the CCB often provides a quick, reassuring, peek into the hive with absolutely no interference.

Someone with your years of experience may not need the benefits offered by a CCB and perhaps, in time, with more years of beekeeping under my belt I, too, will be in this position. In the meantime for me.... and a few others I suspect, the clear crown board will remain a trendy, pansy and ESSSENTIAL aid to our beekeeping.

PS: I see now that you consider solid crown boards as 'adequate' ... perhaps you should try a 'superior' one made from 6mm polycarb ?
 
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In the meantime for me.... and a few others I suspect, the clear crown board will remain a trendy, pansy and ESSSENTIAL aid to our beekeeping.

QUOTE]

Hardly "trendy", clear crownboards have been in use for longer than I have been born which is beginning to feel like a long time. I have some glass ones which date from the forties at least. Perfectly useful with insulation on top.

I don't "need" to use them but prefer to for all P's reasons.

"Pansy", well, that's a different argument.
Cazza
 
P & C,

I know, but couldn't resist throwing in the adjective. I possibly have a glass cover, still around from my original WBCs, but they were, frankly, more of a nuisance than an asset. Immediate condensation, fragility, etc. But at least they were relatively easy to clean and had a rigid frame.

Mine are simple, cheap - and the phrase was 'perfectly adequate', not just 'adequate'. You will likely grow out of them when you get more than twenty or so hives..... I wonder if any bee farmers use polycarbonate or perspex coverboards as the norm? ))wooden spoon emoticon::
 
P & C

Mine are simple, cheap - and the phrase was 'perfectly adequate', not just 'adequate'. You will likely grow out of them when you get more than twenty or so hives..... I wonder if any bee farmers use polycarbonate or perspex coverboards as the norm? ))wooden spoon emoticon::

I like the idea of "growing out of them." I now feel like a small child. Since I've been growing out of them for high on 20 years, I doubt it.
I can happily live without them. I think I have 3 overwintering without.
Why would beefarmers use them? They are not hobbyist potterers like me.
C
 
whats the best way to clean the plastic crown boards on paynes nucs? the clear thin Perspex type. ...

The crown boards from Paynes are Polycarbonate not Perspex (Acrylic).. You are quite right . ... Perspex CAN be polished with a cutting agent .. unfortunately Polycarbonate CANNOT.

"Perspex" is a specific type of plastic.
Polycarbonate is a different specific type of plastic.

The difference can be as important as the difference between different 'types' of metal.


And actually the Paynes coversheet 'flimsies' are made of yet another, different, plastic.
Other than remembering its made by Bayer and is foodsafe, I can't remember its name - it is on the blue scratch-protective film that covers the sheet when brand new.
No idea how one might polish it.


Anyway, if your prop won't 'crack off" when you flex the sheet (gently!) on a cold winter morning, warm (not too hot for the plastic) washing soda, rubber gloves and a sponge should do the trick.
 

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