Castellation strips too long.

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As far as I can remember none of the sale items were advertised as seconds,

Unless you specifically buy first grade then assume all hives are seconds. 1st grade hives from the likes of Th*rnes are, if I recall correctly, shrink wrapped.

An angle grinder works wonders on over long castellations, chop them in half and they fit easily in the recycle bin :)
 
If they don't fit send them back, write a little note saying "not fit for purpose" and then perhaps the manufactures will get the idea that they don't fit and start making them the correct size
 
T's are usually pretty good on customer service and if you contact them I am sure they will sort it out.
 

Ditto. Th*rnes are extremely polite, quick and efficient about sorting out problems. Quite unlike one other supplier who have zero concept of customer service (and it isn't just me, there are a few I've come across that have experienced this, some walked away totally disgusted and fleeced. I got a full refund and told not to buy from them again, no worries I wouldn't buy from them if they were the very last supplier on the face of the earth!)

I thought all the modern castellations supplied by Th*rnes were the same length last I handled them a few months back and can see no reason why they would ever change the length.
 
I had the same problem and just made a little groove down one inner wall using a screwdriver - hardly major woodwork. Be a perfectionist and make the opposing grooves match.
 
I bought some equipment to make up a new hive in a famous manufacturers sale, no names no pack drill, but the castellation strips are too long to fit the inner walls of the hive without either chiseling out or cutting the metal.
If you check the T website (assuming it is Th0rnes you are talking about?) and search for the word "castellated" there are two versions sold, one for the first quality boxes and one for the budget/second/sale version. They have different fitting systems, which you can see if they are side by side. First quality supers have slots so castellated strips with different spacing are easy to change. The budget version nail to the top of the timber and are only supplied in 10 frame versions. So you actually have two differences on the ones I've seen, the length and whether they have fixing holes, although they may now put holes in all.

As with other areas in beeking, there is a lot assumed that's not always apparent and suppliers tend to think their regular customers are aware of all the quirks of the products they supply without making it explicit. One is that T sell cedar timber nationals in two different hive ranges and some parts are not compatible; entrance blocks are different lengths too. It can be deduced from the catalogue and web descriptions, but is that obvious enough? Probably not if some are still getting caught out. Another is that "seconds" (and sale items) are not just first quality products with a few flaws. They are seconds because of the timber used, either the source or the knot count and made to "budget range" dimensions and design.

Th0rnes have been good in the past about swapping items (the list price is the same) but that's going to cost postage if you're not near one of their stores. Castellations keep the frames steady when transporting, which works for me. I'd get the tin snips out and punch nail holes as the quickest way of making all your hardware compatible. Th0rnes have quite a markup on these small items and then add postage. There are also 9 or 11 frame alternatives elsewhere if you want to experiment with spacing - 9 frames can be better for cut comb. I got some from S1mon the beekeeper which were the cheapest I saw for multiple pairs with post included and they fitted the T budget/sale range as well as supers from elsewhere.
 
There are also differences in the size of Ts floor inserts meaning you need to check you have the right insert for the hive before you put vaseline or whatever you use on it. Surprised me because I thought they all looked the same but no.
 
If you check the T website (assuming it is Th0rnes you are talking about?) and search for the word "castellated" there are two versions sold, one for the first quality boxes and one for the budget/second/sale version. They have different fitting systems, which you can see if they are side by side. First quality supers have slots so castellated strips with different spacing are easy to change. The budget version nail to the top of the timber ...
Bingo!


There are also differences in the size of Ts floor inserts meaning you need to check you have the right insert for the hive before you put vaseline or whatever you use on it. Surprised me because I thought they all looked the same but no.
The "Budget" or "Bees on a Budget" floors (seemingly usually the sale offering) have thinner sidewalls than T's prime offering (and the British Standard) - which leads to them needing different length entrance blocks. And, I don't doubt, the inspection board size is also different.
Important to know (and mark) which are which!
 
The "Budget" or "Bees on a Budget" floors (seemingly usually the sale offering) have thinner sidewalls than T's prime offering (and the British Standard) - which leads to them needing different length entrance blocks. And, I don't doubt, the inspection board size is also different.
Important to know (and mark) which are which!

I've somehow I got one of these 'prime' floors mixed in with a few bought in the sales. The insert and entrance block issue is a major pain! At a quick glance they look the same and I can't recall any major difference when making them up, can't be more than 3 or 4mm difference on timber thickness

Quite why they make both types is a puzzle.
 
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