curry756
House Bee
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2011
- Messages
- 147
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- Bexleyheath
- Hive Type
- 14x12
- Number of Hives
- 6
Hello,
I performed my first "proper" inspection of my one hive yesterday and it was very eventful. I waited this long as I am new and wanted my mentor to be present to help me.
To cut a long story short I obtained the bees as a rescue mission in late October last year. The original beekeeper has passed away last year and the farmer wanted shot of the bees as he has no idea what to do. End result I took the hive home and transferred them to a new brood body as it had a huge woodpecker hole in the side. I have opened them once since to treat for oxalic acid in late Jan.
The plan for yesterday was to:
- have a proper inspection and assess the state of the bees
- start the bailey frame change to get them onto new frames and foundation.
Upon initial inspection of the first half of the frames we came to the conclusion that varroa was NOT an issue as we couldn't see any. However it was clear that they have an issue with chalk brood. Quite a lot in the inspection tray and quite a lot still in cells - we also had to check for AFB and EFB as we saw some perforated cell cappings. This turned out to be chalk brood again. We saw BIAS across these frames too and saw some eggs, so we were sure there was a queen somewhere. We also saw drones and drone cells too. However it appeared that there was a lot of stores and chalk brood. This meant that the queen was struggling to find anywhere to lay eggs. A slight concern, we were confident that the bailey frame change would address this as we had a laying queen.
Frame 8 was the game changer!
Frame 8 contained a fully developed and capped 2" long queen cell AND the existing queen. The queen looked reasonably active, the right length but appeared thin. This meant that we were confident it was a superseadure cell as it was right in the middle of the comb and also the bees reduce the queen's weight by about 30% when they are looking to supersede her.
The main question that went through our minds was:
- why would they be superseding her so early in the year?
We think its down to the fact that the bees know something is wrong with the current setup and this is their answer to resolving the issues?
So the bailey frame change was no longer the favoured option. We had a new plan!
The new plan consisted of splitting the hive. We ran to the garage to gather a spare hive. We build this hive next to the existing one and we moved all the bees and all but one the existing frames into this new hive. We carefully selected a frame that had BIAS and marked the queen. We then moved her to this frame and placed this frame back into the existing hive. We then shook all the bees into the new hive and proceeded to check all frames for additional queen cells. There weren't any. We placed the frame with the queen cell in the middle of the new hive and marked the frame so we know where this one is.
We then closed up the new hive, fed the existing hive with the original queen and closed that up too.
So the ideal outcome of this is:
(i had always wanted to run two hives anyway)
Old Hive:
Foraging bees will return here and think they have swarmed. We reckon most of the bees will make their way back to this hive anyway. They can draw out new comb and the queen can lay to her hearts content. Hopefully they will lose the instinct to try to supersede her again. We don't know how old this queen was so we will look to replace her anyway this year.
New Hive
The bees will realise they are queenless and do everything in their power to make sure this queen hatches safely. Then its fingers crossed she can mate successfully. This process could take 3 weeks minimum. They still have most of the BIAS so should be ok for a while. If this is all successful and the queen starts laying properly then I can start my bailey frame change and get these all on to new frames too - and with a new queen this colony will build up fast. Worst case the queen hatches with chalk brood or never gets mated and we will need to requeen. My mentor has about 17 hives, so he said we can cross that bridge if we get to that point. But hopefully in late April its easier to requeen than it is now.
I just wanted to share this with you all as for a beginner this seamed like some major work. Feel free to let me know your thoughts and I will update the thread as we go along.
I have posted this to the beginner forum as I am new, but I do have a great mentor, so if you are thinking this is too advanced for a beginner then apologies - but honestly I am a beginner
I performed my first "proper" inspection of my one hive yesterday and it was very eventful. I waited this long as I am new and wanted my mentor to be present to help me.
To cut a long story short I obtained the bees as a rescue mission in late October last year. The original beekeeper has passed away last year and the farmer wanted shot of the bees as he has no idea what to do. End result I took the hive home and transferred them to a new brood body as it had a huge woodpecker hole in the side. I have opened them once since to treat for oxalic acid in late Jan.
The plan for yesterday was to:
- have a proper inspection and assess the state of the bees
- start the bailey frame change to get them onto new frames and foundation.
Upon initial inspection of the first half of the frames we came to the conclusion that varroa was NOT an issue as we couldn't see any. However it was clear that they have an issue with chalk brood. Quite a lot in the inspection tray and quite a lot still in cells - we also had to check for AFB and EFB as we saw some perforated cell cappings. This turned out to be chalk brood again. We saw BIAS across these frames too and saw some eggs, so we were sure there was a queen somewhere. We also saw drones and drone cells too. However it appeared that there was a lot of stores and chalk brood. This meant that the queen was struggling to find anywhere to lay eggs. A slight concern, we were confident that the bailey frame change would address this as we had a laying queen.
Frame 8 was the game changer!
Frame 8 contained a fully developed and capped 2" long queen cell AND the existing queen. The queen looked reasonably active, the right length but appeared thin. This meant that we were confident it was a superseadure cell as it was right in the middle of the comb and also the bees reduce the queen's weight by about 30% when they are looking to supersede her.
The main question that went through our minds was:
- why would they be superseding her so early in the year?
We think its down to the fact that the bees know something is wrong with the current setup and this is their answer to resolving the issues?
So the bailey frame change was no longer the favoured option. We had a new plan!
The new plan consisted of splitting the hive. We ran to the garage to gather a spare hive. We build this hive next to the existing one and we moved all the bees and all but one the existing frames into this new hive. We carefully selected a frame that had BIAS and marked the queen. We then moved her to this frame and placed this frame back into the existing hive. We then shook all the bees into the new hive and proceeded to check all frames for additional queen cells. There weren't any. We placed the frame with the queen cell in the middle of the new hive and marked the frame so we know where this one is.
We then closed up the new hive, fed the existing hive with the original queen and closed that up too.
So the ideal outcome of this is:
(i had always wanted to run two hives anyway)
Old Hive:
Foraging bees will return here and think they have swarmed. We reckon most of the bees will make their way back to this hive anyway. They can draw out new comb and the queen can lay to her hearts content. Hopefully they will lose the instinct to try to supersede her again. We don't know how old this queen was so we will look to replace her anyway this year.
New Hive
The bees will realise they are queenless and do everything in their power to make sure this queen hatches safely. Then its fingers crossed she can mate successfully. This process could take 3 weeks minimum. They still have most of the BIAS so should be ok for a while. If this is all successful and the queen starts laying properly then I can start my bailey frame change and get these all on to new frames too - and with a new queen this colony will build up fast. Worst case the queen hatches with chalk brood or never gets mated and we will need to requeen. My mentor has about 17 hives, so he said we can cross that bridge if we get to that point. But hopefully in late April its easier to requeen than it is now.
I just wanted to share this with you all as for a beginner this seamed like some major work. Feel free to let me know your thoughts and I will update the thread as we go along.
I have posted this to the beginner forum as I am new, but I do have a great mentor, so if you are thinking this is too advanced for a beginner then apologies - but honestly I am a beginner
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