Bulbs for warming cabinet.

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Gribbee

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Hi.
can any one out tell me what rating of bulbs to use in a warming cabinet.
I have read that 40 watt bulbs are the ones to use but does this still apply to the new energy saving bulbs. My cabinet will be large enough to take 2 x 30lb buckets so how many bulbs would be needed.
Thanks
Steve
 
Thanks Tony, do you use a thermostat with that?
 
Never mind about being phased out, they are not the safest way of arranging heating. To be honest, they are positively dangerous if considererd from an elf'n'safty angle - both an electrocution risk as well as high surface temperature.
 
Hi.
can any one out tell me what rating of bulbs to use in a warming cabinet.
I have read that 40 watt bulbs are the ones to use but does this still apply to the new energy saving bulbs. My cabinet will be large enough to take 2 x 30lb buckets so how many bulbs would be needed.
Thanks
Steve
No, 40watt incandescent bulb run hot whereas energy savering bulbs run cold as a rule?
 
No, 40watt incandescent bulb run hot whereas energy savering bulbs run cold as a rule?

Not quite, the actual real 'wattage' tells you the heating effect.
Any actual 40 watt bulb will give you the same amount of heat (but different amounts of light!).
Most "energy-saving" bulbs are around 10 watts (check the packet), so you'd need four of them to get 40 watts of heat.

However, I'd agree with o90o that bulbs as such aren't that great an idea.
Check out reptile terrarium heaters on eBay. (The ceramic ones that fit like bulbs are about £15)
And don't forget that you can use a light dimmer (for old-fashioned bulbs) with other heater elements (reptile, greenhouse, etc) equally well - as long as you are within the wattage limit of the dimmer!
 
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Thanks Tony, do you use a thermostat with that?

Hi yes I do, as the other poster says reptile thermostats and heaters are good. I use a thermostat for underfloor heating, works a treat but took an age to get it near accurate on the temp I was setting it for as the positioning of the sensor is critical.., I do believe there are better alternatives
 
... I use a thermostat for underfloor heating, works a treat but took an age to get it near accurate on the temp I was setting it for as the positioning of the sensor is critical.., I do believe there are better alternatives

Putting a fan (like one out of a scrap computer) in the cabinet will help to even out the temperature inside the box - and thus should make the positioning of the sensor much less critical. And costs essentially nothing.

Low voltage (5v or 12v) dc fans can be easily, cheaply and pretty safely powered by transformer plugs from old chargers, etc.

And using an RCD ('safety cut-out plug') to protect the whole warming cabinet assembly will help to protect you from your own electrical projects!
 
Putting a fan (like one out of a scrap computer) in the cabinet will help to even out the temperature inside the box - and thus should make the positioning of the sensor much less critical. And costs essentially nothing.

Low voltage (5v or 12v) dc fans can be easily, cheaply and pretty safely powered by transformer plugs from old chargers, etc.

And using an RCD ('safety cut-out plug') to protect the whole warming cabinet assembly will help to protect you from your own electrical projects!

I'd been scratching my head about how to simply wire up a 12v fan to mains power - sparks arent my speciality - thank for that tip ITMA :)
 
I'd been scratching my head about how to simply wire up a 12v fan to mains power - sparks arent my speciality - thank for that tip ITMA :)

Just check the output of the "wall wort".
And compare with the fan's requirements. A 12v fan will usually run happily (and more quietly) on a much lower voltage (7?), but running a 5v fan from a 12v supply isn't recommended.
But it is sorting the AC from the DC that is most important - and some 'chargers' and the like do produce a low voltage AC output - ALWAYS check very carefully!
 
I use a reptile thermo control.

Plugs into the mains, with a double adaptor on the other end.
Fan and heater, my case a ceramic bulb with a built in temp probe. The temp then turns the fan and the bulb on and off.

Easy payed for its self not running the bulb 24/7.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucky-Reptile-TC-2UK-Thermo-Control/dp/B003081RQ0

Really, you'd be MUCH better keeping the fan running all the time.
Honest.

And it barely uses any electricity.



/// Incidentally, a 40 watt bulb has to run for 25 hours to use one single kilowatt-hour 'unit' of electricity (25 x 40 = 1000 ... kilo, thousand), costing (depending on your tariff) about 20p.
So, the £35 controller costs about the same as running a 40 watt bulb 24/7 for 6 months. However, to reach and hold the temperature, the bulb is going to have to be on for some of the time... lets guess half the time, so payback would be after about a year of running the cabinet 24/7.
Controlling the temperature is a good thing. But you aren't going to save vast amounts of electricity unless you are using your warming cabinet for weeks on end - in which case the honey crop will have been so vast that you needn't worry about electricity bills!
 
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Watch out here.

Depends on the type of electric motor. Some will run on DC or AC. Some won't. So some are speed controllable and some are not - well perhaps better to say some can easily be controlled by voltage and some by frequency. Egs a simple mains electric drill motor with armature, commutator and brushes will run at the same speed on a similar DC supply, but an electric clock motor requires frequency for constant running speed (they keep 'perfect' time only if the supply freqency averages exactly 50Hz). Of course mains AC and equivalent DC motors are normally designed slightly differently to each other, but that is another matter and to do with high voltage DC supplies.

In terms of electricity use, if the low voltage fan is supplied with a power supply, mounting that somewhere inside the warmer would utilise both any heat entailed with the power supply and the motor -and would supply a small background heating supply of somewhat less than the heat being lost through the insulation. 'Waterproofness' needs to be addressed, of course.

Only waterproof mains electricity connections should be used below any level up to which honey might fill, should the container fail.

Most vivarium controllers only have a range to about 35 degrees Celsius - not enough to completely liquidise OSR, and any other honey in a reasonable timescale. Partial liquidising is no good at all if the honey is to be fine filtered.

So more thought needs to go into a honey warmer than perhaps meets the cursory glance.

MM's voltage controller is somewhat less efficient than newer controllers and the same goes for simple supplies. Older power supplies are really current gobblers and there is a system now to rate them from (roman numerals) one to five.

When we changed our phone and ansafone we reduced our power supply running costs by between ten and fifteen pounds a year. Not bad when the whole new system (better than the old one) was sourced for only a tenner - an unused/unwanted item at a car boot sale.

RAB
 
If you are using a fan/s from an old computer then use the power pack also to power the fans but mount this out side as it has it's own fan that needs cool air
 
If you are using a fan/s from an old computer then use the power pack also to power the fans but mount this out side as it has it's own fan that needs cool air

Not that good an idea.
Usually computer power supplies shut themselves off if they don't think they are connected to and powering the computer, but more importantly still (if you get it to work) they themselves consume significant power (which is why they need a fan themselves!)


Almost all small ex-computer equipment fans are DC, and really simple to hook up.
As o90o indicates, varying the speed of an AC fan (should you be unlucky enough to find one) can be much more complex (don't bother - find a DC fan!)

My concern was just that someone might hook up an AC-output charger/transformer to a DC fan.
But also to point out that a charger with a slightly lower voltage output should be fine. It doesn't have to be exactly the 5 or 12v that the fan expects.

/// Oh, and small fast fans are much noisier than bigger ones running slowly!
 
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I use a 60w Tubular Heater as bulbs are being phased out... Works a treat!
100 watt bulbs still available at local stores, hasn't taken traders long to mark such as 'rough service' to exploit a loop hole :D
VM
 
Don't try any of this at home folks. Unless you have a good understanding of electrical principles. As my Dad advised me "electricity makes a very good servant but a very poor master".

I see it now, unprotected mains powered supplies with dodgy connections to a poorly rated and totally unsuitable ac to dc converter feeding a large tank of wet sticky stuff.

Leave it to the experts...
 

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