building a National 14x12 hive

[phelge01]

I've been gluing, screwing, securing square all joints with minimal 'entry' gaps successfully - well I did 'fill' some gaps with extra glue - next . . . when the metal ‘J’ runners are inverted and offered up to the boxes, it seems to me they offer a ‘home’ to bugs . . . should I fill the triangular internal space created - to deny this 'hiding' place for un-invited bugs – what is the usual practice? . . .

 

[Davelin]

No need to, bees will plug any gaps with propolis anyway.

 

[oliver90owner]

I would think there are far more places for bugs to hide in the beehaus! Every correx-type sheet needed sealing at the edges! If you are worried about a timber 14 x 12 then keep somewhere for them to hide - as in small hive beetle trap - and check regularly.

 

[phelge01]

National Bee Hive set frames parallel or 90° to entrance?

Thanks for your reply to the metal runners question . . . next . . .
I would like comments / views on setting frames across (parallel) to entrance 'hot' setting or setting frames end on (90°) to entrance 'cold' setting . . . what are considered the benefits or problems of using either of these settings on a National Bee Hive - brood & super?

 

[drstitson]

Britain is probably unique in having the hot or cold issue.

Most beekeepers worldwide use Langstroth or similar hives which only allow frames to run the cold way.

 

[Poly Hive]

1. There is no issue.

2. Further there is no issue on OMF

3. There never has been an issue just a very long winded red herring.

PH

 

[itma]

It just affects the best place to stand while working the hive.
But don't confuse/upset the bees by unnecessary changes - be consistent.
And brood + super(s) all go the same way round on a hive.

 

[BeeJayBee]

Most beekeepers worldwide use Langstroth or similar hives which only allow frames to run the cold way.

Unless the floor has the entrance on the long side of the hive, which then runs 'warm way'.

 

[johna]

There never has been an issue just a very long winded red herring.

PH[/QUOTE]

Totally agree P.H.

 

[phelge01]

where is the ‘best’ place to put the hive entry/exit?

So the considered view appears to be either way, is OK, it’s not an issue . . .

instead of asking ‘hot’ or ‘cold’ position of the frames . . . should my question be . .. .where is the ‘best’ place to put the hive entry/exit . . . ?

After some investigations . . . convention says not at the top but at the bottom . . . because bees build vertically . . . and so the entry/exit should be at the bottom . . . level with or below the floor level . . . as per most current hive designs . . .

I understand there are underside entry/exit designs – but I have so far been unable to gain any views/experience of use of these designs . . . do they work . . . or are they successful, but well kept secrets . . . what are the benefits . . . what are the problems . . . why is it not universally used?

Are there no issues with any of these?

What is the BEST location for an entry/exit on a National beehive?

 

[Rosti]

Someone is going to come along and give the name of this floor type.

I have a couple of second hand floors which have a vertical entry on OMF which means you only have an 8mm gap and do not need a mouse gaurd. May be a variant you could look at. The advantage is clear, the disadvatage is that over winter you cant have a look in and see if you have excess dead bees on the floor or indeed give the floor a clear out with a stick around Xmas time. Nice not having to worry about or judge mouse gaurds though. Entrance reduction is achieved by using an external plate rather than a block. R

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

It's a design based on a dartington entrance (but it's not a Dartington!)
I use them and have had no problem over the winter and I have my frames cold way.
Advantages : less draughts, wasps don't seem to like them (I think the entrance is easier to guard) no need for mouse guard or reducing entrance in winter.
We've discussed it in greater detail on the DIY forum and I've posted plans on there. Here's the link
http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=15588

 

[phelge01]

‘Z’ spring fasteners

Thanks for the views on hive entry/exit designs . . . very helpful

I’m looking at using ‘Z’ spring fasteners – simple . . . but are they effective?
Does anybody have experience using ‘Z’ spring fasteners securing hive boxes together . . . the release action looks ok (use pliers) . . . do they locate the boxes securely?

Is there a.n.other way of stopping the National boxes sliding around that I should be looking at?

 

[drstitson]

the spring fasteners are fine as are the adjustable ones.

however a couple of weeks of propolis will stick floor and brood together nicely.

 

[itma]

...
Does anybody have experience using ‘Z’ spring fasteners securing hive boxes together . . . the release action looks ok (use pliers) . . . do they locate the boxes securely?

Is there a.n.other way of stopping the National boxes sliding around that I should be looking at?

Generally people don't fasten the hive parts together.
Some would fasten them together for transportation, possibly those who move their bees regularly. Others would just put straps round, possibly augmented by some sticky tape.

The bees propolise inside the hive. That and a bit of weight from frames, honey, roof, etc seems to hold them together just fine. Some people, some of the time (and some people all the time) have a couple of bricks or rocks on the roof.

With plastic foam hives, the standard advice is to keep a strap round it to hold everything together. Some people do that with wooden hives too.

People with windy apiaries worry about this more than those with sheltered gardens!

 

[susbees]

Carefully selected home-grown flattish rock on each roof, straps for moving, propolis. Sorted

 

[victor meldrew]

I would think there are far more places for bugs to hide in the beehaus! Every correx-type sheet needed sealing at the edges! If you are worried about a timber 14 x 12 then keep somewhere for them to hide - as in small hive beetle trap - and check regularly.

Seal the correx at one end only and you will be one step ahead of the game when small hive beetle arrives ?
VM

 

[drstitson]

"Every correx-type sheet needed sealing at the edges!"

I love blowing earwings out of correx varroa trays - like playing pan-pipes and the chickens can peck at the "projectiles" as they land.

 

[BeeJayBee]

I understand there are underside entry/exit designs – but I have so far been unable to gain any views/experience of use of these designs . . . do they work . . . or are they successful, but well kept secrets . . . what are the benefits . . . what are the problems . . . why is it not universally used?

...We've discussed it in greater detail on the DIY forum and I've posted plans on there. Here's the link
http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=15588

We've made one so far, a mixture of ideas from both designs. We made it quite deep, so the base of the hive is higher up. We left quite a large gap between the mesh and the varroa counting card.

No problems with it, the bees settled very quickly. Most of them fly straight in to the upper back part of the entrance, although a few slow ones, or heavily laden ones, land right at the front and then crawl in.

 

[REDWOOD]

Made mine last week, waiting for the preserver to air another week and I will then give it a go.