building a National 14x12 hive

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have a few Kewl floors like that where the 7mm slot is replaced with a 50mm length of twin wall polycarbonate running the width of the floor as their entrance chute.

I'm going to make a few mods to my next batch of floors this year, but the polycarbonate passage is staying.

Affixed with clear silicone sealant.
 
plastic twin wall entry

I've read with interest your description and others comments on your beehive entry/exit design, are you able to offer photo or sketch so I can clearly understand your proposal
 
plastic twin wall entry

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I've read with interest your description and others comments on your beehive entry/exit design, are you able to offer photo or sketch so I can clearly understand your proposal

Hello Hombre . . . do you feel able to share your new 'polycarbonate passage' entry / exit design experience . . . has it proved to be functional with clear benefits . . .
 
Thanks for your reply to the metal runners question . . . next . . .
I would like comments / views on setting frames across (parallel) to entrance 'hot' setting or setting frames end on (90°) to entrance 'cold' setting . . . what are considered the benefits or problems of using either of these settings on a National Bee Hive - brood & super?

surely as a national is square, you can turn the box anyway you want them to run, so it will only make the lifting handles so you either work from the back or side, but Im sure the bees wont mind
 
Hello Phelge01,
If I remember and the weather is good next weekend, I will take a camera with me and take a few photos of one of my Kewl floors. The design of the chute and landing board has varied as I played around a bit between individual builds. I have about ten to twelve out in the field at the moment and a few "Temporary" floors too . . . eek!

The twin walled polycarbonate chute is remarkably good. I have only two or three of those at the moment, but it will become a part of my standard going forward for replacements and new items.

I did have an incident last year, when I threw out a small colony in front of a stronger one that had a Kewl floor with Polyprop chute. I did it late in the day and thought no more about it, but came back the next day to find a large heap of dead bees on the landing board . . . Obviously the inmates weren't in the mood for receiving guests and the fact that the entrance was very defendable became apparent. It was a one off, but it doesn't seem to slow up the bees appreciably and I suspect that wasps are unlikely to be much of a problem.

How would I change the basic design that I use? Instead of putting thin battens etc. to support the edges of the mesh, I intend to route the timber and inset the mesh edges, having first filled the grooves with clear silicone work top sealant. I need also to cater for a varroa inspection tray if only for use at treatment time. The entrance chute will also not be full width, but needs to be framed to allow for closing up with a removable screen or queen excluder insert.

Thus far I have used stainless steel #8 mesh for the floors, which are always remarkably clean, but it is quite expensive. My next couple of floors will be made with galvanised expanded steel, which is cheaper, but may not be kept quite so clean by the bees. Time will tell.
 
Generally people don't fasten the hive parts together.
!

agree...but my bees seem to want to, several hives almost require a sledge hammer to break the propolis sealing the joints

warm/cold way.....99% of mine are cold way but i have one warm way....why because it is a show hive at a university and being a national bee supplies hive, it look better with their badge to the front...that means it has the be warm way.....:Angel_anim:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top