Best method to replace old frames

[BernardBlack]

Need to replace a few old frames with new ones, but these old frames usually have pollen, brood or honey in them. Seems unnecessary to waste that. And I don't want to split the brood nest.

What's the best way to replace them? Any tips welcome.

 

[enrico]

I do one at a time. I work them to the one end of the brood box. I do this by taking a frame from one end and putting it back in the other, moving all the other frames along one space. That way you work a different frame to the outside on each inspection. If I remove one due to condition I always have a spare with me which goes back in at the other end. It's a sort of rolling road. I don't always replace them and if all the frames are good I don't always use this method but it works in a nice gentle way for the bees giving them new comb to play with. There is usually something in the frame I take out which has to be discarded, usually pollen, but you can always keep the frame for emergencies if you want to! Works well for me.
E

 

[Beefriendly]

Need to replace a few old frames with new ones, but these old frames usually have pollen, brood or honey in them. Seems unnecessary to waste that. And I don't want to split the brood nest.

Don't. If they are complete and functional then their age is largely immaterial.
When they start to look like these...then it's time to replace even if full of pollen.

 

[Poly Hive]

How old is old? If they are undamaged and fit for purpose which is to say not full of holes or drone cells then in my view they are good to go, to work that is.

PH

 

[Beefriendly]

Definitely an echo in here.

 

[Erichalfbee]

How old is old? If they are undamaged and fit for purpose which is to say not full of holes or drone cells then in my view they are good to go, to work that is.

PH

Don't. If they are complete and functional then their age is largely immaterial.
When they start to look like these...then it's time to replace even if full of pollen.

I agree but it made me laugh.
Say that on the BBKA forum and you have all the shook swarm brigade organising your assassination

 

[BernardBlack]

Some are relatively poor, and I'd be happier seeing them go. Some are coming up 3 years, and the comb very dark making it very difficult when inspecting for eggs in particular.

Granted, they're not as bad as Eric's photos but we were always told to continually replace frames after 2/3 years.

 

[Beefriendly]

.

Granted, they're not as bad as Eric's photos but we were always told to continually replace frames after 2/3 years.

Erics photos??? Errhummm.
And don't believe all you are told...think for yourself.

 

[Anduril]

Erics photos??? Errhummm.

 

[BernardBlack]

Erics photos??? Errhummm.
And don't believe all you are told...think for yourself.

Oops! Was looking at post #6

I do, sometimes. But when you're not long at this craic, sometimes you tend to go with a more experienced view

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I wouldn't call 'change comb every 2/3 years' an experienced view - just the borrowed mantra from the parrot- fashion sistifickit waving non-thinking bee dabblers

 

[Hivemaker.]

This was what Manley thought on the subject of old combs.

Tough Old Combs
There is just one other point I would like to make. Bees always winter better on old combs than on new, and I think it matters not at all how old the combs are so long as they are in good condition otherwise. Really good old combs are one of the greatest assets a bee farmer can have. Some people have been foolish enough to advise the regular and systematic scrapping of brood-combs to the extent of 20 per cent per year, and in so far as good worker combs are concerned, this is just silly advice. My counsel is, get rid of combs that have too many drone cells or are otherwise imperfect, but hang on tight to all others. The older they are the better bees will do on them. This is not theory, or some cracked idea of my own, but a fact which any intelligent beekeeper can prove for himself in a very short time.