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sainfoin

New Bee
Joined
Dec 27, 2011
Messages
63
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0
Location
Cornwall
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
3
We live in a very windy, rainy area of Cornwall and the bees are kept out of the wind sheltered by trees. I cut the branches back so they get as much sunlight as possible but keep the bramble growth within bounds. Sadly yesterday, the first its been warm and dry enough to look I found three dead hives only the one in shadiest spot is still alive. All had been fed and left with honey stores and fondant.
Its such a sad thing to view a mouldy dead hive.
I've replaced flat roofs with WBC so they can have cone escapes and through air ventilation but still ended up with damp, definitely mould with the flats inside the roof; does this happen to everyone?
One hive had a bad attack of varroa despite being treated with hive clean regularly and MAQS, they had seemed to pick up after that but sadly not enough. I think the queen had died in the WBC as there were stores with a few bees.
The bees had so few days they could fly last winter and we live in the country so not many gardens; am I just killing bees rather than helping them to survive - my only aim finding the honey side a nuiscance (apologies to 'proper' beekeepers).
If this hive survives and I can make a split planning to treat with MAQS and to leave the bees with their honey hoping to get through next winter with two hives.
 
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OMF Floors with periscope entrances are a good way to avoid ingress of rain and prevent mould, check out JBM's design

or was it wind chill that did them in?
or are they in a cold pocket?

I would suggest that top ventilation is not the answer though.

given your location, possibly a easterly facing entrance may help with the surviving hive. (facing away from the prevailing wind, but not north facing)
 
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We live in a very windy, rainy area of Cornwall .

That'll be the whole of Cornwall then :D

I would suggest that top ventilation is not the answer though.

:iagree:
Turning the hive into a wind tunnel is never going to help - better off closing any unnecessary holes in the crown board and putting a slab of 50mm celotex on top.
One hive had a bad attack of varroa despite being treated with hive clean regularly and MAQS, they had seemed to pick up after that but sadly not enough. I think the queen had died in the WBC as there were stores with a few bees.
When did you apply MAQS - it's known for triggering supersedure and if put on late in the season could result in poor matings thus queen failure/colonies dwindling

am I just killing bees rather than helping them to survive - my only aim finding the honey side a nuiscance .

There are other ways to help you know - pollinator friemdly planting in the garden for one, and it's not the bees who have the biggest survival problems.

bumbles and solitary bees need more help than honeybees, maybe if you feel that beekep=eping is a bind you should try supplying bumble nest sites etc. as well
 
I've replaced flat roofs with WBC so they can have cone escapes and through air ventilation but still ended up with damp, definitely mould with the flats inside the roof; does this happen to everyone?

Do you have open mesh floors ? If so then top ventilation is not a good idea ... think front door open and bedroom windows open in the middle of winter and heavy rain outside.

I assume by WBC roof you mean a gabled roof ? No problem with this but most people on here would be putting a bit of insulation in there though.



One hive had a bad attack of varroa despite being treated with hive clean regularly and MAQS, they had seemed to pick up after that but sadly not enough. I think the queen had died in the WBC as there were stores with a few bees.

Hive clean is not a varroacide, it's just intended to keep varroa levels down - it's active ingredient is Oxalic acid but in very low dose - I know people who use it but it's not the most effective treatment. MAQS has both good and bad reports and some people have reported queen damage from using it ... sounds like you are right about the dead queen though. What do you mean by 'died in the WBC' ?


If this hive survives and I can make a split planning to treat with MAQS and to leave the bees with their honey hoping to get through next winter with two hives.

I'd have a look at your hive set up if I was you .. there's still a bit of winter left yet despite talk of spring. Close up any top ventilation no holes in the crown board. Make sure they have food in the hive (either honey you have left in there or a slab of fondant bang on the top of the frames), put a slab of Kingspan or some sort of insulation on the top of the crown board under the roof.

Give them a chance to create a nice warm environment inside the hive as they start their spring build up - and don't consider splitting them until they really are a nice strong colony .. even then, I'd consider leaving them as they are and putting a bait hive out or get yourself on a local swarm list - better way to start a new colony than splitting a potentially weak colony early in the year.

Get an inspection board in to see what the varroa drop is sooner rather than later and if it's high then I would use OA sublimation if you can beg, buy or borrow a Varrox as that's going to do the job properly with very little effect on the colony.


Ahhh ... see JBM got to it before me ... totally agree with what he is saying.
 
Sounds like varroa was the main problem leading to their demise, due to ineffective mite treatments.
 
Going into my second year, 3 hives and a polynuc, all looking strong at this stage after first year, as advised here treated with Oxallic .

Convinced that made a huge difference to chance of survival , evident by colony strength. Even polynuc I had doubts about looking strong. Again, the Oxallic to me was essential. Resultant large mite drop on all hives.. great stuff, getting them at a time when they are clustered and those mites have a field day due to this, must be like an " All you can Eat " buffet ! :)

So I would say... a early January treatment with this would have been beneficial.
 
Hi Sainfoin

I've sent you a message.
\
best wishes
 
We personally have flowery fields and bumble bees did very well with us last year. I spend a lot of time cutting thistle heads after they've flowered to avoid total thistle overload. To avoid animal damage and preserve the bees from the nuiscance neighbour they are not in the ideal place but the bee inspector and my mentor felt it was still suitable.
 
I thought MAQS sounded a great idea and was keen to try it wasn't too sure after the first year but still persisted reckoning to give it a reasonable try before trying something else. I do think this time that because of the very wet weather I applied them later than ideal so probably your right and that could be the cause. All the hives have their backs to the wind.
 

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