Bailey comb change

[Levitt53]

Can I do an bailey comb change yet? I've just been into my poly hive for a brief inspection. The super I left above it is still full of honey. I was planning to do a bailey comb change this year as I bought the hive last year and have no idea how old the comb is. It seems to me that I've got to either start the comb change now or give them another super. The colony seems really strong.

 

[Pete D]

I would say yes based on the information given.
However peoples opinion on what a very strong colony looks like differ a lot.

You are not far from me and the OSR is starting to come into flower and temperatures are on the up.

 

[Levitt53]

This is only my second season so I don't have any drawn out super frames. I don't want them to waste time drawing out a super when they could be drawing out a brood box.

 

[Poly Hive]

How many frames of brood are there?

PH

 

[Pete D]

You could do either.
If you wait until they want to swarm you could do an artificial swarm and get the combs drawn then.

Is there a queen excluder between the existing brood and the super.

 

[Levitt53]

I didn't do a full inspection today but they've been really active (not much info I know). The super is full of the old honey that was there when I got the hive. I didn't add the QE today but there is no room for them to move into there but there will still be room in the BB. i'll do a full inspection next week. I do need more info before I decide I realise as I'm writing this.

 

[Pete D]

Ah, no QE, so there may be brood in the super too.
You need to wait until you have had a full look and can ascertain the real strength of the colony, full frames of brood and full frames of bees.

 

[Levitt53]

Ah, no QE, so there may be brood in the super too.
You need to wait until you have had a full look and can ascertain the real strength of the colony, full frames of brood and full frames of bees.

Is there a minimum number of frames of bees needed to start?

 

[Erichalfbee]

Would you consider taking one frame out and replacing with foundation at each inspection? That's what I do

 

[Levitt53]

Would you consider taking one frame out and replacing with foundation at each inspection? That's what I do

What if it has stores or brood on it. They would still need to draw it out. What is the advantage of that over a bailey change please?

 

[Erichalfbee]

Well, I wouldn't remove a frame with brood unless perhaps another colony could do with it.
Stores, yes....you can always keep them for a nuc or pop in freezer or, especially at this time of year if it is Ivy/Thymolated syrup, chuck it.
I tend to leave pollen in, putting the frame of foundation next in line. I just find it an easy way to have a whole new brood box in ten weeks.
It's a personal thing, I just don't like doing a whole brood box at a time. tried it once on two colonies and neither would use the top entrance and filled the lower box with pollen

 

[masterBK]

You need to close off the lower entrance otherwise then they will continue to use it rather than the upper one. The whole point of the upper entrance is to stop them filling bottom bx with pollen

 

[Levitt53]

Ok thanks all. I'll decide next weekend when I do a proper inspection. It was getting a bit late yesterday when I got to them and although it was warm enough I didn't want to push it.

 

[Erichalfbee]

You need to close off the lower entrance otherwise then they will continue to use it rather than the upper one. The whole point of the upper entrance is to stop them filling bottom bx with pollen

I closed the bottom entrance and had thousands of bees on the front of the hive and living under the OMF for days ....that's why I said it. I must just have had contrary bees......long dead now, of course

 

[Eyeman]

I closed the bottom entrance and had thousands of bees on the front of the hive and living under the OMF for days .

That does happen.
Same can happen when you want to rotate the hive 180'- if you dont do it in 45' stages.
Problem can be solved by sealing off the OMF with the sticky board.

 

[Brigsy]

Has anyone got a Bailey to work? I'm considering it to change frame format.

Maybe adding a ramp in front at the bottom to stop them going under when you close the lower entrance?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Madge]

Levitt53, you might not need to do a Bailey exchange. When you do a full inspection, check the combs. You'll see if they're really black and old. If not, leave well alone and just go gently. Remove empty combs and replace those with foundation.

 

[Gaz1]

Well, I wouldn't remove a frame with brood unless perhaps another colony could do with it.
Stores, yes....you can always keep them for a nuc or pop in freezer or, especially at this time of year if it is Ivy/Thymolated syrup, chuck it.

Why didn't I think of that! I cracked the lid on one of mine today and it had stores on every frame. Didn't lift any out but want replace frames as I go.
Why do you chuck ivy/thymolated syrup? Can this not just be given back to them autumn for winter stores?

If it's an old frame I want rid off and is full on stores what's the best way to get rid of them

 

[Erichalfbee]

I should have said that if it's an old frame I throw it, if it's half decent I put it in the freezer for future use.
You can't just throw an old manky store-filled frame away. I uncap and soak overnight in water so that most of the stores are dissolved away then incinerate.I can't get my garden incinerator hot enough to deal with a full frame.
I don't know if anybody else has come up with a better method

 

[drex]

If the stores are of decent quality, I score the capping, then place it above a crownboard, with open feeder holes, just as I do with cappings post harvest, and bees soon clear the stores. I then bung the frame in my solar wax melter