Abelo poly hive, old style v new.

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If anyone finds that goes against their kind of beekeeping then don't buy them, please take issue with Abelo; I'm not here to fight their corner. ;)
You misunderstood me
I asked because you said
I'm no expert and haven't needed to use the holes as entrances or for ventilation; if I used the latter I would be laughed out of town anyway. But I assume that if left unblocked, the holes might give the potential for doing splits or other manipulations within a hive.
As if you knew what those manipulations were.
I don't and am keen to know what they are.......that's all
 
I don't and am keen to know what they are.......that's all
I believe that the two-hole Abelo box allows the use of a division board to raise nucs from splits; that's an expensive use of bees - 5/6 frames - and instead I use the BS 3-frame split poly nuc. The single-hole new Abelo box allows the use of a plain 460mm board (just an 8mm lower rim for BBS) for vertical splits.

If (when) I run out of split boards I use the Abelo feeder for a VS: leave the Q and what-not down in a new box below, add supers, add the feeder, remove the white bung from the top box, add that + supers and roof.

Vaseline on the bung helps, but even so it's best removed from inside the box. Have a spare box without a bung to save faffing, and transfer the top lot into that.

The black vent plugs are superfluous and bees seal them. Occasionally I forget to put a white bung in and bees seal the hole, or reduce it to their liking with propolis.
 
Abelo are expecting there new poly hive out next month, 12 frames, lip around edge of supers and brood to stop water seeping through. Any thought?

Dougie
 
12 frames, lip around edge of supers and brood to stop water seeping through. Any thought?
Don't fall for the idea that one extra frame will make life easy: if bees need more space, give them another box.

Drawback of all National poly hives (except Abelo and Swienty) are the differing footprints, between each make and from BS National wood dimensions. The incompatibility of the size and design variations locks a buyer into that one design.

If you want the flexibility to mix poly with BS National wood then choose Abelo or Swienty, which have the same 460mm square footprint as wood.

It's not really a choice because the Swienty was designed so poorly that I find it hard to believe that beekeepers were involved, or that they trialled it in the field before spending on the mould.

If you're starting out and yet to buy kit, you can't really go wrong with an Abelo 11-frame hive with the old deep roof. Crownboard is tricksy and expensive, but forgo it and buy a box feeder instead and use it as a crownboard, syrup and fondant feeder (turn it over) and split board.
 
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Don't fall for the idea that one extra frame will make life easy: if bees need more space, give them another box.

Drawback of all National poly hives (except Abelo and Swienty) are the differing footprints, between each make and from BS National wood dimensions. The incompatibility of the size and design variations locks a buyer into that one design.

If you want the flexibility to mix poly with BS National wood then choose Abelo or Swienty, which have the same 460mm square footprint as wood.

It's not really a choice because the Swienty was designed so poorly that I find it hard to believe that beekeepers were involved, or that they trialled it in the field before spending on the mould.

If you're starting out and yet to buy kit, you can't really go wrong with an Abelo 11-frame hive with the old deep roof. Crownboard is tricksy and expensive, but forgo it and buy a box feeder instead and use it as a crownboard, syrup and fondant feeder (turn it over) and split board.

Thank you for your input, I’ve brought a few cedar hives already. But recently fancied the poly hive by Abelo (temp management etc) I really appreciate your advice.
 
Thank you for your input, I’ve brought a few cedar hives already. But recently fancied the poly hive by Abelo (temp management etc) I really appreciate your advice.
Could be that customers choice to stick with the Abelo mark 1 version will prevail in the long run?
 
I have just seen a really nice review, intersting answers... :cool:

 
He keeps saying he will be able to use his national kit with it but the bee space won't be the same and the footprint is different! Strange....
 
He keeps saying he will be able to use his national kit with it but the bee space won't be the same and the footprint is different! Strange....

Yes, most of the review seems to be either anticipating the compatibility issues with standard nationals or giving explanation as to how the obvious incompatibility can be overcome. The solutions are obviously a compromise and if you want to use standard nationals, why wouldn't you use the existing Abelos?
 
I like poly hives and brought some off Murray back in early 2000s I still have them although admittedly the first part I chucked out was the floors and just used wooden. Bs poly Nucs in those days didn’t exist so converted some swienty langstroths. My problem is the price and over the years found the moneys better spent on the Nucs in terms of bang for buck. For me they need to be compatible the ability to Chuck on wooden supers when needed is a massive plus.
 
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Abelo Instagram has a photo of the new 12f box with a cedar National on top.

No matter which way you look at it, ledges are known to collect water.
And you have double bee space at the junction!
The potential mess with 12 frames in the brood box and 9 or 10 in the super is mind boggling 😀

Edit, Just thought....... it might not be as bad with a QX in there.....
 

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