Wire Wooden Framed Queen Excluder - New - £10!

[jenkinsbrynmair]

The bees go to all the trouble to coat everything in propolis with all its bactericidal etc properties, why would I want to burn it off?
It is a different matter if I have disease in my colonies however

Did I mention scorching the whole hive? that's a fad that's reserved for the 'spring cleaning' brigade, I only scorch boxes from deadouts and manky old boxes heading for the store stack
A quck blast of the QX with the flame gun is a different matter when yoy have a mahoosive stack of exluders to sort out.

 

[ericbeaumont]

The bees go to all the trouble to coat everything in propolis with all its bactericidal etc properties, why would I want to burn it off?
It is a different matter if I have disease in my colonies however

I'll go along with that, and like PH I've never scorched anything (apart from the van I set fire to this summer, and another time my right hand when putting out the flames on a poly hive full of bees, caused by a flame from a falling smoker).

I read (but could never again find) an old article on US experiments with scorching: conclusion was that it was ineffective, though to what degree I cannot recall. Makes sense, because heat may be effective on flats, but if the corners, chips and holes of a fibrous wooden box hold bacteria or virus, the repeated excessive burning to get enough heat that deep is going to render the box useless after a few years. On the other hand, the NBU consider scorching (proper scorching, with the invisible flame of a roofer's torch) good enough to deal with diseased boxes.

When necessary I have used a hot washing-soda scrape and scrub or Virkon S for wood, and bleach for poly.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Nowhere in the answers to the OP this thread has scorching the hive been mentioned.
But it seems the urge to be pompous overlooked the fact that my advice was just for clearing the remains of brace comb off the queen excluder.

 

[Millet]

Nowhere in the answers to the OP this thread has scorching the hive been mentioned.
But it seems the urge to be pompous overlooked the fact that my advice was just for clearing the remains of brace comb off the queen excluder.

You will argue that a ****..roaches fart smells nice,,can you explain the difference and benefits and negatives to top and bottom bee space..

 

[Walrus]

From bargain queen excluders to cockroaches farts...what a joy it is to read these pearls of wisdom

 

[Erichalfbee]

You will argue that a ****..roaches fart smells nice,,can you explain the difference and benefits and negatives to top and bottom bee space..

We can all join in this one
I have tried both. I like a gap at the top of the frames. I squash no bees replacing crown board and excluder. There are more bees at the top of a super when I've had the top off for a while so I squash fewer replacing them. Some people argue that you just don't see the one you squash but I don't believe so.
The bees have space to walk around on top and I can watch them for signs of disease.....CBPV perhaps? .......This last point is maybe moot.

Langstroth hives precede Nationals? Langs are top space.

How about you Steve?
What do you run and why do you like it?

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

can you explain the difference and benefits and negatives to top and bottom bee space..

Difference is simple even for a simpleton - TBS, bee space at the top, BBS bee space at the bottom.
Neither is worse than the other although there are benefits to TBS in some circumstances and BBS in others.
Commercials seem to prefer TBS, reasons? I'll give a few but users of TBS can probably add to it.
Inspections are quicker - no need to clear bees out of the way when putting supers back on and less chance of killing the queen if she has decided to have a wander around on the top bars.
As super frames sticking to the QX is no big issue (you're not disturbing the brood area by putting a hive tool in and levering the box up away from the QX) cheaper flat plastic QX's are fine as you don't need a beespace rim to keep the QX away from the brood frame top bars.
As Dani mentioned, the original moveable frame hive (Langstroth) was TBS.
Their roofs are more like shallow trays than nationals - no crown boards needed, again, you can just prise away the roof (same for poly hives) which is one less bit of kit to lug around/lose in a wind.If you do decide to have a crown board, no ned for beespace rims on them - just a plain bit of ply needed.
In fact, as Maisie's nucs have only half beespace over the frames, the same, I don't use a crown board and the poly is flexible enough to be popped off.
BBS? you need a rim on your crown board
More care needed when putting boxes back on as bees can be crushed
I run my hives with just a beespace between the OMF and the frame bottom bars so my floors don't need a rim on them, the boxes just sit straight on the floors.
But as this thread is supposed to be discussing QX's, specifically from one supplier and the pro's and con's thereof, maybe this is too far a digression?

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

From bargain queen excluders to cockroaches farts...what a joy it is to read these pearls of wisdom

Matthew 7:6

 

[Walrus]

Matthew 7:6

Had to look it up. I know you don't mean it!

 

[Walrus]

We can all join in this one
I have tried both. I like a gap at the top of the frames. I squash no bees replacing crown board and excluder. There are more bees at the top of a super when I've had the top off for a while so I squash fewer replacing them. Some people argue that you just don't see the one you squash but I don't believe so.
The bees have space to walk around on top and I can watch them for signs of disease.....CBPV perhaps? .......This last point is maybe moot.

Langstroth hives precede Nationals? Langs are top space.

How about you Steve?
What do you run and why do you like it?

I have Langstroth hives which are top bee space, but the reason I think I prefer it is just because it's what I'm used to. David Kemp told me that Brother Adam chose bottom bee space for his Dadants (normally they are top bee space) because when you put a screen on to move them it stopped the frames rocking about.

Of course, plenty of successful beekeepers don't use a queen excluder at all...

 

[bingevader]

Of course, plenty of successful beekeepers don't use a queen excluder at all...

And bee havers!
But I'm so glad it wasn't me who said it!

 

[Millet]

Difference is simple even for a simpleton - ,

I could not read your probable helpful information.. as soon as i seen the piss take..thanks for nothing..

 

[Millet]

We can all join in this one
I have tried both. I like a gap at the top of the frames. I squash no bees replacing crown board and excluder. There are more bees at the top of a super when I've had the top off for a while so I squash fewer replacing them. Some people argue that you just don't see the one you squash but I don't believe so.
The bees have space to walk around on top and I can watch them for signs of disease.....CBPV perhaps? .......This last point is maybe moot.

Langstroth hives precede Nationals? Langs are top space.

How about you Steve?
What do you run and why do you like it?

Hello Dani.. i have bottom bee space because that is what i started with.. i do not see a problem with splatting bees and that is what i will stick with..the only time i have problems splatting bees is when moving the brood box for Nadiring.. but i am sure that happens whichever bee space you use..

 

[enrico]

The way I reduce bee fatalities is as follows. When placing one box on top of another I put it on at a slight angle so that there are only four places of contact. One on each side. I then gently twist the box to push the bees out of the way until the boxes are square. Hope that makes sense. Becomes more difficult as the boxes get heavier.
E

 

[Millet]

The way I reduce bee fatalities is as follows. When placing one box on top of another I put it on at a slight angle so that there are only four places of contact. One on each side. I then gently twist the box to push the bees out of the way until the boxes are square. Hope that makes sense. Becomes more difficult as the boxes get heavier.
E

From personal experience +1 Eric.. and good advice me thinks..

 

[BMH]

Heads up.

Abelo are doing 10 x wire framed queen excluder with lapped joints, single side bee space and an oak frame for £120

The cheapest around. Glad I cancelled my order and have gone for this instead.

Its on preorder for January but that shouldnt be an issue for anyone.

 

[monarda]

The way I reduce bee fatalities is as follows. When placing one box on top of another I put it on at a slight angle so that there are only four places of contact. One on each side. I then gently twist the box to push the bees out of the way until the boxes are square. Hope that makes sense. Becomes more difficult as the boxes get heavier.
E

This is why I joined the forum-to learn and pick up tips like this one. Thank you Enrico
Dave

 

[Angry_Mob]

Heads up.

Abelo are doing 10 x wire framed queen excluder with lapped joints, single side bee space and an oak frame for £120

The cheapest around. Glad I cancelled my order and have gone for this instead.

Its on preorder for January but that shouldnt be an issue for anyone.

How do you know they are oak?

In Thornes 18 Jan sale I picked up 6 excluders for £11 each.

 

[BMH]

How do you know they are oak?



In Thornes 18 Jan sale I picked up 6 excluders for £11 each.

Spoke to Damian and he said they were oak.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

 

[Ian123]

How do you know they are oak?

In Thornes 18 Jan sale I picked up 6 excluders for £11 each.

If you look at the picture on their site it’s oak!