Which hive tool is best?

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I refuse to go into giving hive tool use and frame loosening instructions as it would be just too patronising for words..........but to the poster who thus seems to assume we just yank frames out with no preparatory working...............gimme a break. If I dotted every i, crossed every t, and explained every factor and the reasons for it, and all the little interlinkages that take place, we would be on volume 2 of my book by now. (The book that never will be btw, there are too many books already and many of them are misleading at best, no need for another one.)

Is that me you mean? Don't think I said that - you're putting words in my mouth now aren't you? All I said was (to paraphrase) if they don't know how to do it they should be shown. Doesn't strike me as patronising at all. Especially when some of them are doing it wrong and it's costing you. It seems only sensible to spend the 2 minutes each it would take to improve the situation.
 
I have not seen the top bar type mentioned here. It is a factor. The distance between the bars presents different problems, or opportunities, dependent on whether you are looking at the results of prising against the lugs or just needing to lever the frames apart.

I have both types and use the J type a little more than the traditional. Down to misplacing one or the other, mostly, but I can manage my few hives at a leisurely rate without more issues. I certainly have both at the ready for the first inspections where the frames may need more scraping (as in in harder material).

The word 'leisurely' may also be significant.

Perhaps dummy boards, should figure in the discussion, too. And pushing the frames tightly together to squeeze in that last frame, if you insist on having 12 hoffmans in your National, for instance.

All in all, down to choice, ie personal preference. They are relatively cheap item. Try both types and make up your own mind. You will lose the lesser favourite, eventually - unless it is left in the tool box permanently.

RAB
 
eventually - unless it is left in the tool box permanently.

RAB

Now there's a sensible suggestion if ever I heard one ! Nothing quite like the frustration of losing or forgetting your hive tool and a spare can come in very handy.
 
That is one problem with having two available. It is the weak part of the plan, as one will easily be lost, or perhaps found a week or two later.
 
I'm with the J tool gang and for getting the first frame out of a poly hive I think they are the best. Thereafter, all the other frames I lift out by hand having released them with the other end of the tool. I use a German SS tool which has a special bit on the side at one end which is specially shaped for separating frames, but you can also get British made steel tools with this feature.

It is possible to break the lugs off frames with this type of tool but I've generally only done that on old abandoned hives where the frames were already very weak.

But like most things it is what you are used to. For example, if you were taught beekeeping using another type of tool and have never really tried the J tool you would wonder why you should bother with it and would no doubt think up all sorts of reasons why it is not the tool for you and indeed may well be the invention of the Devil.
 
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Having taken frames out of poly for a bit longer than many on here, I have never had much bother with the other sort.. so no point in adding hive material to the issues. LOL

It's down to what you prefer. Unless... you are running thousands.

PH
 
LOL? The danger with poly is damaging the sides with the hive tool if it is incorrectly used. With a J tool this danger is more or less eliminated which is why I would recommend the J tool for those trying poly.

The key is the "incorrectly used" bit.
 
Yup. But........of course it depends on correct usage as does just about everything.

PH
 
Using a 1cm dummy board in a National instead of cramming in frame 12 makes a strong and easy 'first out' so you can then loosen the others gently laterally before lifting.
 
For example, if you were taught beekeeping using another type of tool and have never really tried the J tool you would wonder why you should bother with it and would no doubt think up all sorts of reasons why it is not the tool for you and indeed may well be the invention of the Devil.


lol.thats a bit ott..............................nevertheless.........J tools have cost me money in the past and when we can buy in the very best in spring steel for 2.50 a shot from the USA then why not just provide them in abundant quantity of the type that works best for us. No point in going for expensive stainless steel, as they get lost long before they get really rusty anyway. We get through about 30 hive tools a season. Many reasons, and in the end it is just not economic looking for them for more than 5 mins. They are just a consumable to us.

I actually learned my beekeeping with neither type. My grandfather was a millwright with a small engineering company, and all the stuff I learned with at my fathers side was made by my grandfather. The old hive tools he supplied were of a flat pattern. For years, when working alone, I used heavy ships deck scrapers as hive tools. Brilliant, robust, but gave me forearms like Popeye. He also made a load of other things, including my fathers early extractors etc, a very versatile man. If we ever have a need for it, I still have two pairs of the hive carriers he made way back in the early 1950's.

Have seen folk using J tools on poly boxes. Have heard the definite opinions that they are the only tool to use, especially emanating out of one of the poly box makers. It does seem that some agree, others not. It was all traditional hive tools seen on the last Danish visit apart from one beekeeper. Really not an important subject and it was not discussed.........just noticed what type they had on the side of their smokers.

But, if you come to work/help here, and I or Jolka see a J get wormed under the lugs or topbars, we will relieve you of the thing and give you a nice shiny new one of the safer type. Its not just prejudice, its real practical experience. I have far better things to do with my time than think about hive tool styles if there was no good reason to do so.

We do not find it any different with wood or poly..........but then we do not go for the end frame first.....in either style of box...........its usually the second one..........and you are levering frame against frame, and no purchase against poly sides takes place...........


Did I say safer type? My son has just laughed when he saw this and reminded me of a minor accident here several years ago that resulted in one of our Ukraine boys having to get a couple of stitches in his foot. He sharpened his hive tool as it was not scraping the inner covers properly with the butt end as directed. At the first bee yard he lit his smoker and could not find the hive tool...........he DID have it, I had seen it minutes earlier............then he yelled........it had been on the ground in the grass........butt end up...........all nice and sharp....and he stood on it............nicely slicing into his instep. Guess if you make stuff ***** proof you make it beekeeper proof too.

had to come back.........the starred out word seems innocuous unless we were to get flame wars going......India Delta India Oscar Tango............not even in upper case either in case the bot thought I was yelling.
 
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I made my own hive tool from a surplus bar of steel. it cost nowt. It is therefore the best I will never buy.
 
I use a Taylor's Eye Witness scraper type hive tool in the apiary. Made in Sheffield, they are superb tools.
I use a J type hive tool at home for removing frames full of honey from supers for extraction.
For cleaning up beekeeping equipment I use a tungsten carbide paint scraper from Screwfix.
Three tools for three different jobs.
 
I use a Taylor's Eye Witness scraper type hive tool in the apiary..

Not a hive tool, but have had a number of items of that brand, some items now 50 years old...knives especially. A brilliant and reliable old make.

Their serrated edge capping knives, especially those over 40years old (the steel got softer after that) used in rotation with a hot bath to keep them in were better than any hot knife, and the shaped end was great for whipping out low bits.
 
I tried to buy their capping knives - but they said they had stopped making them. I hope they can stay in business as I guess there is a lot of overseas competition for what they make, but it is great to see a British company still making traditional tools and knives etc., in Sheffield, even if they don't do capping knives any more!
 
I think you miss the point...............we NEVER lever under the lug. We do not allow it.
am I missing something here? What part do you lever under then?
 

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